Potentially pulling the trigger on a TR6...

Found a screamin' deal on a '73 TR6. $3500, it's supposedly a really clean car and the pictures I've seen seem to indicate that's no lie. A phone call revealed it could use a repaint, and the wood dash section was sprayed with some lame plastic coating by a previous owner, but it runs excellent with 88k miles and has been converted to electronic ignition. Soft top is new and also has a hard top. Owner says it's summer daily driven.

What should I know/look for? This is one of my dream cars and I can afford this one. If this is as good as it seems...

Just do it.

Check the frame for rust, and I think the rear suspensions on TR6s can be a weak spot, but there's nothing that'll kill a deal like that.

"Summer Daily Driven" == "Won't start when cold."

If you want it, do it.

Unless that is way way worse than it looks, it would sell for well over $10k in my area. Hurry up and get it before its gone.

Look over the wiring harness really carefully. (Former Triumph owner who got burned for failing to do that. Literally.) At least a TR6 isn't likely to scrape the headlight harness against the edge of the hood each time it opens like a Spitfire, wearing a hole in the insulation, and have things short out when the headlights come on because there's no fuse or circuit breaker protecting them.

just look at the body bring magnet to see if the beer you are drinking is in aluminum cans or if you have any plates in your head , celebrating on the way home from doubling your money on a quick sale . I love the line in beerfest at the end when the american teams bets the recipe from spectator #1 ."" Take the bet you gnikcuf yssup !! ""

At that price, don't be silly in your inspection or haggling. And don't dawdle!

Check the rear suspension mounting points for rust. Check out the entire frame for rot. Body panels are all bolt-on, so that is easy, the frame is the important thing. A bad frame will make this a not so great deal. You can get replacement frames from Ratco, but they are not cheap. You may also want to check the sills (rocker panels) and floors for rust.

Mechanicals are straightforward and simple. They are great cars, but require much more effort to drive than you would think. No power steering, stiff (but direct) gearbox, flexible chassis. These are not creampuff MGB type cars. See if you like the driving experience before buying........and make sure the frame is solid.

Mine has been reliable, fun, and it makes all the right sports car noises. The overdrive unit is a bonus if it has one.

Called the guy back and he says the soonest he's available is Sunday. I have first dibs on it. I can't wait!

So wait you haven't bought it yet?

+1 on the frame checkout. What I haven't seen mentioned yet is that if the diff gets any play in it's mounts due to deteriorated rubber or whatever, the diff can rock (especially if you dump the clutch) and snap the mounting studs off at the frame. Not an easy repair. If the rear end feels loose, (kinda sways while driving) that may be the problem. -Louis-

GO FOR IT!!!!

re-read everything Carl Heideman has written lately. after the challenge this year, i'll totally trade you for a V8 944. TR6 makes my pants tight -- in the front.

Get it and you can join 6-Pack and drink beer. www.6-pack.org has a list for buyers of things to check out.

Mark

good luck, slick, long time no hear from you on here...

Well everybody has clued you in about the frame. Look closely at the fenders. They are expensive if they ahve to be replaced. But as I guess you can tell from the others, get the darned car.

Is that car from the Clintonville, WI area?

If so, it used to belong to my friend's dad. There are literally 5-6 cans of Great Stuff in the rockers and rear fenders. Probably 2 gallons of Bondo too. Looks nice from 10 feet away though. I would recognize those wheels anywhere.

93gsxturbo wrote: Is that car from the Clintonville, WI area? If so, it used to belong to my friend's dad. There are literally 5-6 cans of Great Stuff in the rockers and rear fenders. Probably 2 gallons of Bondo too. Looks nice from 10 feet away though. I would recognize those wheels anywhere.

Yeah that's the one. Is it really that bad? I may have to look elsewhere then; a shame, I thought I'd found a once-in-a-lifetime deal.

Even if it's a pile of rust and bog, a running/driving TR-6 will probably never be worth much less than $3.5k.

Also, are those Euro bumpers on it?

Nah I was just screwing with you. Looks like a screamin' deal!

93gsxturbo wrote: Nah I was just screwing with you. Looks like a screamin' deal!

Are you serious? I about E36 M3 my pants. Please verify.

OK, I didn't even read the comments after the post, which I hardly got through after seeing TR6, $3500 and then catching a glimpse of soft top AND hardtop. Buy the car unless its folding in half on itself due to corrosion. A decent DD TR6 is 10K these days, for starters. Makes me wonder what the seller's motivation is, but who cares if its a legitably driveable car. Congrats for that find, I know a lot of people who would paint you with laser sights right now. Not me, I'm an MG guy, which means I'm slightly less good looking than you and I have facial hair.

Buy the car. If it runs well and the frame isn't rotten, you can drive it around for the rest of the summer to see if you like TR6s. Then spend winter fixing the worst of the problems it will most likely have. Some things to check (after the frame) are differential mounts (they crack and the pins separate from the cross-member), crankshaft end-float, and compression. The U-joints and half-shaft splines may also need attention. At 88k miles, an original motor will be getting pretty loose, so warm it up and make sure it has oil pressure. This should be around 25psi at idle and 50-70 at highway speeds. For $3500, I'd be happy if the pistons stay in the block, though.

Good luck.

The only advice I would give you would be to get the guy a deposit via paypal so you have some sort of binding contract. Make it $20 to $ 50 with the understanding that you still have the right of refusal if it's not what you want. Even if you lose the deposit it's still worth it. That's a good price even for a less than stellar car. I personally know of more than one story that a seller has verbally agreed to hold a car and then another buyer shows up with cash or offers more money and the car gets sold. It's not to say the seller still wouldn't do that but at least they may think twice before doing so. Good luck with your purchase.

Rear suspension detail:

Where the IRS is attached to the frame.

Everything else is common sense, just like any other car.

Jack