jfryjfry (FS)
jfryjfry (FS) Dork
2/25/21 1:47 a.m.

I joined a Prius forum to tap into their knowledge but my post isnt visible until approved which made me remember that while there isn't much that's "sports" about the Prius, it kind of has two motors so maybe that satisfies the Motorsports of my grassroots efforts....

 

I'll paste the post here and just tldr it at the end:

 

I’ve been searching and probably just overlooked it but haven’t found much. 

a little while ago our 172k mile, always faithful gen ii threw a check engine light. I don’t recall which code (I think it was related to the accelerator pedal) but the common cause was cited as one of the coolant switches/valves. While researching it I learned that the inverter coolant pump also goes bad often. The light would sometimes go off but then come back. I drove it like this for maybe 20 miles. 

Since we had never changed the coolant, I went full steam ahead and got a new valve, pump and thermostat and new coolant, all from either the local toyota dealer or from a Toyota dealer online. 

I drained, replaced the valve and pump and thermostat, and refilled both engine and inverter coolant. I used the bleeder valves and ended up putting back basically the same amount as what I had pulled out. I didn’t measure exactly but it looks like it’s within half a quart if it’s not the same. 

It had been sitting for a month after the engine light came on and before I worked on it. I had it on a battery tender for all but the last week and when I got to it it was dead. So that cleared the codes. I was able to jumpstart it. 

I ran it around town for about 10 minutes, no problem and the heater worked great like normal. I figured I was done. The next day, Yesterday, I sent my wife and kid on a 2.5-hour drive. No problems. 
Today I took it on the freeway and after about 5 mins the check engine light came back on. After another 5 mins, the res triangle came on. Went off after 10 seconds, came back on for a few seconds about a minute later. It did this a few times before I parked it 3 mins later. 

I figured it was overheating a little but because it would come and go I figured it was hot but not ridiculous. Checked the fluids and they all looked normal levels. 

drove it home, same thing. I pulled the codes and it is 1150. 
Also the heater is cold. 

topped it off (it took maybe 1/2 cup at the most), and let it cool. Drove it around town and the heater was working ok. But then went cold and it started with the red triangle again but didn’t show the overheat icon this time. 

I have since manually triggered the coolant pump and didn't get any air purged that could tell the heater sometimes starts to get a little warm but goes back to cold

I wonder if I have air bubbles causing it to overheat and a bad pump causing the check engine light??

any other guesses??

 

tldr:

replaced thermostat, coolant as well as a small valve and motor in the cooling system. All toyota factory parts. 
 

it worked fine for a 2 hour drive, heat worked fine.  
 

now it overheats and the heater blows cold, occasionally briefly blowing a hint of warm. 
 

what could cause this?   A stuck thermostat would seem to cause one or the other but not both.

I suspect an air bubble but I've had this thing on different angles, ran it hard, etc. it's my main guess for now, but I'm at a loss. 
 

I will bet there is an air pocket in the system, have someone power flush and fill it. My experience with the machines is that it is the most efficient way to fill most late model vehicles.

John Welsh
John Welsh Mod Squad
2/25/21 5:46 a.m.

I have 4 Gen2 Prius but have not experienced the same. In general it sounds like air in coolant.  

Did you know that the car has a coolant thermos where it stores warm coolant? 

This is for the whole stop start thing so that all starts are not with cold coolant.  My initial guess is this somehow is related to your issue.

This themos is located behind the bumper cover just under the driver's headlight.  A round metal canister about the size of a Folgers coffee can.

Zoom in to see metal round can under headlight

Zoomed version... 

My Prius ownership/rebuild thread

John Welsh
John Welsh Mod Squad
2/25/21 6:17 a.m.
jfryjfry (FS)
jfryjfry (FS) Dork
2/25/21 1:12 p.m.

Well he wasn't the most experienced mechanic but it inspired me to try burping it again and I think I got it.  
 

it took a while but I finally got heat from the heater and it never flashed a triangle in spite of the fan coming on a few times. It took another Appx 3/4 quart of coolant. 
 

Fingers  crossed but I think I'm good!

 


 

making this little seal for the funnel was vital:

FMB42
FMB42 New Reader
2/25/21 6:28 p.m.

I'm with John Brown and his 'power flush' recommendation. A PF service or, for DIY types, a PF kit is the way to go. However, the old school 'extended' radiator filler neck funnel works fairly well too (be sure to follow the OEM service manual for cooling system bleeding instructions). However, it's far better to play it safe by using a power flush from the start. Driving a late model alloy head or alloy head/block engined vehicle with a substantial air pocket in the cooling system will, of course, often result in a cooling system related engine failure in the future.

jfryjfry (FS)
jfryjfry (FS) Dork
2/26/21 12:27 p.m.

In reply to John Brown and FMB42 :

any suggestions on a kit?  I did a search and came up with the ones that hook a garden hose up but not something along the lines of what you're describing. 
 

 

1988RedT2
1988RedT2 MegaDork
2/26/21 1:25 p.m.

Head gasket.

{ducks, runs}

FMB42
FMB42 New Reader
2/26/21 1:49 p.m.

FS, I'll poke around some and get back to you...

To 1988RedT2; H G** is four letter word.

FMB42
FMB42 New Reader
2/26/21 2:03 p.m.

Search "cooling system vacuum refill kit" on that bey sight. You'll need an air compressor of some type tho. Otherwise have a shop do it if you have further problems. That it took another 3/4 of Qt. suggests to me that you've likely cleared the air pocket. Meanwhile we'll keep our fingers crossed.

jfryjfry (FS)
jfryjfry (FS) Dork
2/26/21 3:27 p.m.

It's back to being a rock-solid driver.  The Prius is 100% good.  It was an air bubble.  
 

that fit the description of my problems but because it made a 2.5 hour drive with no problem immediately after I worked on it, I was not convinced that was the problem

 

I'lllook those up using that description 

twowheeled
twowheeled New Reader
2/28/21 8:45 a.m.

If you look up the coolant swap procedure I seem to remember a trick to jump one of the pumps possibly the thermos bottle one to suck out any air. 

jfryjfry (FS)
jfryjfry (FS) Dork
2/28/21 3:31 p.m.

You can jump the chs pump (which I did) and it helps.

 

Ultimately, I pulled it up on ramps, put it in maintenance mode (so it just runs the engine constantly), put a funnel into the radiator neck that sealed up on it, filled it so it was several inches higher than the radiator, and let it idle. revved it a few times, and after a while, bubbles started coming out. i kept it filled, and would occasionally open the bleed screw on the left top of the radiator.

once the heater finally started working (again) I knew I was getting somewhere.

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