Our last race didn't go well. Why? Just like at our race at Daytona, we almost-instantly managed to overheat our turbo Miata badly enough to end our race day early. We limped it around the track for a few hours, then finally called it quits after a bad oil leak and a bad exhaust leak sent us back to …
Did you guys do a coolant reroute? The stock coolant route is pretty horrible and turbo just adds to the problem.
Actually, I see from the pictures you did not. Check out the coolant flow on the Miata head, very little goes to the back two cylinders, turbos just make it worse. Check out below:
Removing the front water neck with a freeze plug and using a Kia or similar thermostat housing at the rear of the head, allows coolant to flow properly thru the engine.
Why the heated throttle body? Since EFI has no fuel to cause icing, it seems redundant.
Probably emissions, I know that many people will just block this off.
iceracer said:Why the heated throttle body? Since EFI has no fuel to cause icing, it seems redundant.
It isn't fuel that could ice in this case, its the moisture in the air. So heating the throttle body to a constant 187 degrees is what Mazda decided to do. Honda does something similar to many of their engines as well. Obviously this is a situation that may only occur in certain circumstances, so for most of us it isn't an issue and can be safely eliminated.
iceracer said:Why the heated throttle body? Since EFI has no fuel to cause icing, it seems redundant.
AIUI, the moisture in the air can still ice it up if it's cold enough. I deleted them on mine because turbo car in California, but...
I came into this thread expecting the answer to be "the transmission".
So since this thread is totally hijacked now, sounds like I can route my coolant lines from the oil cooler around to the coolant bypass inlet and just skip the lines to the throttle body as I certainly don't want heat in my intake in a turbo application and winter driving is not in the cards....
dherr said:So since this thread is totally hijacked now, sounds like I can route my coolant lines from the oil cooler around to the coolant bypass inlet and just skip the lines to the throttle body as I certainly don't want heat in my intake in a turbo application and winter driving is not in the cards....
Sure. You can skip the factory oil warmer too, it doesn't really do much for cooling and is more about getting the oil up to temperature a bit faster. That lets you eliminate the entire intake-side coolant path.
Edit: You probably do need to keep the heat exchanger physically installed though, as a spacer.)
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