I think the 4WD version is the same. I'll have to dig. My EPC is at home.
bgkast wrote: The SRT transmission is stout, but not known for its smooth shifting. That being said it is the one I selected for my mid-engine Locost project (along with the engine from the same vehicle).
You might be perhaps the first person to ever claim a skittle's gearbox to be "stout" I've been around far more of those cars than I care to admit, but every one seemed to be on its 3rd or 4th trans. One was on its 2nd built Shep transmission. The caliber's 6sp appears to be leaps and bounds better.
In reply to yamaha:
You do realize the SRT4 uses a different box than the pedestrian versions, no?
I've heard of people running 500 plus hp through them with only an aftermarket clutch.
Cone_Junkie wrote: I always liked the shifting in my 6 speed 03 VW GTI. I think it's the 02A, at least the 020 family of transaxles. Shifts were silky smooth, various gear ratios depending on the year and engine installed. 1.8T and VR6 were the common motors bolted to them.
If it was a six speed it's the 02M (completely new/redesigned trans from 02A/J which shared parts). They shift like dook unless you modify the shifter ends and do significant syncro mods (internally) IMHO. Plenty strong for a factory box though, I know guys putting putting 600+whp through stock gear stacks readily without issue.
In reply to bgkast:
Skittle = SRT4......not the peasant version. And I've heard those rumors too, but have yet to actually see one last any length of time making around 300whp.
bgkast wrote: Huh, news to me. What transmission are those ultimate track car challenge SRT4s running I wonder?
Built and/or they aren't spiking eleventy billion PSI on a tiny turbo at 3000rpm giving an enormous torque spike that shocks the E36 M3 out of transmissions.
The H-Type i referenced earlier, the only ones i've ever seen die were on small turbos. Big turbo cars? Never ever ever ever seen one shatter.
What i'm getting at is that 500whp out of that motor is probably easier on a trans than 300whp pushing a small turbo for all its got.
Or SRT4 owners can't drive for E36 M3. Judging by my experiences, theses cars were treated horribly and a LARGE portion of them locally met a horrible end.
Swank Force One wrote: Or SRT4 owners can't drive for E36 M3. Judging by my experiences, theses cars were treated horribly and a LARGE portion of them locally met a horrible end.
This is also true, its like Suzuki owners in the sportbike world....
In reply to Swank Force One:
See, and I never shattered an H-type, they just started jumping out of 5th with any power application. The first time I had that happen, a shop back where I grew up took the car, a junkyard trans, and rebuilt that trans and swapped it. I don't know why they did it this way, I didn't have much say in it. That lasted about 65,000 miles. Then it started jumping out of 5th. The second shop tried to rebuild the trans and that lasted for about 15,000. And they had already gone out of business.
In retrospect I should have tried to fix it myself and just worried about the 5th gear assembly and left the box in the car. I believe that could have been done, right?
The only gearbox I've shattered was in my Capri. The Ford kind.
SF1 totally beat me to it. The E153 is a stout box. You can get factory LSD if you want too. They still sell them new too. Tons of parts available as well including custom gear ratios.
Just to give you some ideas. There are more parts than this available.
http://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/index.php?cPath=317&sort=2a&page=1
My 275 WHP is laughed at by this transmission...It's like double it and maybe I'll feel stressed. The only thing that box hates is the wrong oil.
E153 is stupid strong, like 600hp+ 2800lb mid-engined on giant slicks strong. And you can upgrade it from there as well, plus TRD goodies if you can find them.
However, like most strong things, there is a weight penalty.
singleslammer wrote: In reply to HappyAndy: Sadly, there isn't an easy way to bolt it to the LS4 (FWD LS) AND have a starter. If there was, this would be the end all be all for mid engine applications. Also the F40 was available NEW on ebay for a LONG time for $400 bucks. Always wanted to get one but wasn't real sure where it would end up going.
Huh? The LS4 F40 swap is quite common in Fieros. The starter bracket is not a big deal.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1S3xkFRL6U
I consider a trans being in a car that 'makes X hp' different than a trans being in a car that 'runs X et'.
There are numerous examples of the dodge 523/543/568 family trans in 10 second fwd cars.
Honestly, the older 568 has a lot less issues than the t850. The thing that seems to hold back the 568 vs the t850 is the smaller spline/shaft cv axle coming out of the diff, which snaps more often when you are, you know, running the 1/4 mile in 10 seconds at 140mph.
Go ahead and make it mid 9s @140 mph for a mid-engine version.
How about..... 26 seconds @ 210mph on low boost? He was having problems getting a high boost tune because the car was spinning all four tires on the dyno.
Stock transmission.
http://youtu.be/a8OQCHG__6M
Still planning to summarize this in spreadsheet form, but to keep the thread interesting I found this nice little detail on the Toyota E-series boxes if it hasn't already been linked before. http://www.roadandtrack.net.au/images/stories/documents/E_gearbox_short.pdf
Is it safe to state this from what I have been reading? :
Wide E-series = E153, E15xF, E52, E53
Narrow E-series = E56, E57, E58, E250(F)
Narrow are likely to strip gears at 500hp (or less) and the E250 is known to be the weakest of the bunch.
Spinning tires and long-form racing where hard launches and shifts are not as critical are exactly the things that make transmissions appear stronger than they are.
On the flip side, the smartest way to make a trans live is by being careful how you drive it. Once a car is fast enough you dont really have to launch and shift it like crazy to go fast unless you are trying to ET on a dragstrip.
The majority of the reason why so many t850s have been damaged in SRT4s is because of the way they're driven. Even the input shaft failures probably mostly have to do with shockloads from launching and shifting, even if they happen to finally break in the middle of a gear.
Swank Force One wrote: [good things]
This was a great thread. I learned a lot from it.
As a new driving instructor in Australia, I'm purchasing my first car. It's gotta be a small, fwd 5-door. There will be a lot of stop-and-go, idling, back-and-forth in car parks by novices obviously.
I'm thinking if I purchase a manual car, it will mostly be driven by novices and that probably means I'll be replacing my clutch more often than usual.
If I purchase an auto, my understanding is that passing air when vehicle is at speed helps cool transmissions. That is why extended stop-and-go is not good for trans temperatures.
My question is, like the E153, is there a fwd auto that is more capable, than others, of dissipating heat, especially in low-speed/stationery situations where air flow is nonexistent? Or in the interest of my transmission's longevity, will I have to install an oil cooler?
Serious Contour/Cougar people had all kinds of trouble with the MTX-75. Perhaps the extra torque down low that the V6 puts out (especially considering that a lot of these guys run superchargers), makes it break in Contours and Cougars but OK in high powered Foci.
A suitable (and stronger) substitute for the MTX-75 is the MTX-4, which was used in the 1989-1995 Taurus SHO.
I was also really impressed by the Mazda A65M-R in My Mazda 6 V6. It has been used for a manual swap with a V8 SHO.
The Maxima transmissions seem to be pretty stout, standing up to the turboed cars. They can even handle this guy...
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