Turned the key on the Locost today, and we get fuel, and cranking, but no spark. I think we have everything connected properly -- but maybe we're missing something obvious?
Rob
Turned the key on the Locost today, and we get fuel, and cranking, but no spark. I think we have everything connected properly -- but maybe we're missing something obvious?
Rob
I speak here in generalities, since I am not Miata familiar, and don't have a wiring diagram in front of me.
If you have fuel, and assuming you are running a stock efi, you must have crank trigger, since its the crankshaft position pulse that tells the pump relay to energize. If the injectors are clicking while cranking, again your crank signal must be ok. Edit: unless there is a cam sensor in the loop- some need the cam signal to run, others just need it for injector synch.
Coil (or coils) should have power on the + terminal with the key on, and if you have a good test light, you should be able to see a flashing light from the - side of the coil while cranking. Flashing light and no crank means bad coil, wires, or whatever in the secondary side of the ignition system. No flash will be either power or ground continually. If power on the neg side, trace wiring to the ignition module/amplifier/igniter/whatever Mazda calls it, and make sure there are no loose or disconnected connections. Find a wiring diagram and assure that your igniter power supply, ground, and trigger wires are all ok, then find a high impedence led test light or a lab scope and see if you are getting a trigger signal from the ecu. Signal and no spark= igniter. No ignition signal with injector pulse means ecu or wiring. If grounded on the neg side, look for a pinched wire from coil to module, or replace the module. If you unplug the module and the ground dissappears, probly change the module/igniter.
how do I test an ignitor on a 1.6L miata motor?? We are not getting 12V out of the Red and White wires that goto the Coil.
I removed the Ignitor and tested the voltage of the wires coming in. I am getting 0V on the Brown Yellow wire, 12V on Black/white and 0 volts on Brown wire. These are the readings when I try and start the motor.
Update!
It's alive -- the spark issue is sorted (bad CAS and wiring), and the car starts and idles. WOOT! Crimson and I are pretty excited.
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