resetting camber plates...

Hey all,

My '05 civic si, has a camber dilemma...

The mac strut front end needs at least -2 deg to avoid plow on autox/tracks, but the 36k miles/year DD highway miles, even with zero toe, is wearing the inside tread down a bit prematurely, no caster adjustments exist.

I'd like to get camber plates & during autocross/track events just max out the camber, then after the events set it back for DD use.

Would the plates/bolts hold up to the frequent adjustments, maybe 10-15 autox events & 1-2 track days per year?

Another possibly misguided idea: the car currently has f. camber bolts that max at -1/5deg, could I just spot wield the bolt cams in place (@-1.5), and just use the stock alignment clearences to adjust for any minor misalignments?

Thanks!

Keep in mind that he toe moves when you set camber plates--its not as easy as just tipping them in and out.

ok, that's what I was a little uncertain about. Thanks for the input!...

paul wrote: no caster adjustments exist.

You can reverse Hotckis camber plates for 2 degrees caster, maybe more, or you can get up to 6 degrees caster with Todd's Plates depending on your damper set up. You can also move the sub frame forward a bit with washers or put in a solid offset spherical bushing on your lca for about 1 degree. We have 0 caster stock. Any of these will probably move you out of your class but it would sure handle a lot better.

I have been doing this for 6+ years with no problems on a set of Cusco camber plates. You can have your alignment set up so that the toe change works in your favor. For instance if the rack is in front of the tires you can run zero toe on the street and get a bit of toe out for the autox when you kick in the camber plates.

SupraWes wrote: I have been doing this for 6+ years with no problems on a set of Cusco camber plates. You can have your alignment set up so that the toe change works in your favor. For instance if the rack is in front of the tires you can run zero toe on the street and get a bit of toe out for the autox when you kick in the camber plates.

Huh. That's a very good idea. Wish I could do that in my E Stock car.

Hasbro wrote: We have 0 caster stock.

Wha?

Like "oh yeah there is like no caster on that car" or put an angle finder on it and get 0.0 deg?

I didn't know they made cars with no caster, even if it doesn't have PS I woulda thought there would be a little.

Well, technically the caster's not really zero on the EP3, 1deg 35' (+/- 1deg). http://www.handa-accessories.com/civic/sportsusp.pdf

I'm staying with a spring/strut setup as opposed to coilovers, so the hotchkis plates give me a minimal amount of camber & caster, even when reversed; & since Todd's plates mount to the inside of the towers, they will raise up the front end 3/4", being coilover-less I won't be able to adjust back down...

I'll have to figure out the impact of the camber vs caster change on the car, the rack is definitely in back of the tires, but high mounted w/ long tie rods, horrible camber curves etc...

Thanks for the input guys!

paul wrote: Well, technically the caster's not really zero on the EP3, 1deg 35' (+/- 1deg). http://www.handa-accessories.com/civic/sportsusp.pdf I'm staying with a spring/strut setup as opposed to coilovers, so the hotchkis plates give me a minimal amount of camber & caster, even when reversed; & since Todd's plates mount to the inside of the towers, they will raise up the front end 3/4", being coilover-less I won't be able to adjust back down...

I should have said 0 caster adjustability.

Ok, how about one camber bolt on each side and Type R lcas. Or stock lca and two bolts per side and torque the heck out of them. Keep those fixed and adjust the hotchkis plates when you compete?