Drunkonunleaded
Drunkonunleaded HalfDork
2/28/17 11:43 p.m.

I've had this 79 L-48 auto for nearly 20 years. Arguably my first car, although it was parked due to a dead water pump before I got my licence. At this point, I have and 04 Z06 and was going to clean it up for my parents to enjoy on weekends.

Interior is 99%. Lots of new trim pieces, the rest were refinished. I'm a gas gauge, lenses, and a clock away from a functional newish interior.

Mechanically, the car is an abortion. Suspension is assuredly done by now. Carb/intake was pulled long ago. Not even sure if it will turn over at this point (figuring this out in the next week or so). Engine was supposedly rebuilt by the PO, but I have no idea.

Ideally, I'd like to pull all emissions systems. Most of it was already gone. Have a few L-82 intakes and two rebuilt L-82 QJets. Was thinking of simplifying everything vacuum-wise, even converting to miata-based electric headlight actuators.

A/C is stripped sans heater box (rotted hoses were clipped), where I cannot get to one bolt. Was debating deleting the A/C or keeping it. Looks like I need to pull the dash regardless, because I'd like to do the heater core and need to fix a crack in the heater box. Was thinking it might be easier (cheaper) at this point to just run without A/C.

Have a new alt, radiator, water pump, VCs, hoses (rad and PS), oil pan, and a few other ancillary items.

When deciding to replace the body mounts, I was mulling over separating the body from the frame entirely. Found the plans for a wood dolly and an old article on stitch-welding the chassis (which has surface rust, at a minimum).

Other main issue is a rusted core support, which I should be able to replace without pulling the body off. However, pretty much every bushing is shot, body included. It might allow me greater access to things if it were to be separated.

I'm mainly concerned with "scope creep" as the water pump job turned into its current, dilapidated state.

Any ideas? I could alternatively reseal the engine, try to plumb the vacuum system, and see if I can get it running and deal with things from there. I'm worried about things like valve seals having dried out by now from lack of use, as well as fatigued valve springs. Was also thinking of throwing in a better cam and new lifters because at this point, it's almost trivial.

Or, I could descend further into project car hell, separate the body/frame, and confirm that the birdcage isn't rusted. This would also facilitate pulling the engine/trans if needed, and easier access to the suspension.

My main sticking point with doing things "right" is the whole proposition of spending $20k (after paint) on a $12k car.

tripp
tripp Reader
3/1/17 3:28 a.m.

I understand the scope creep and although I don't like to admit it I think I enjoy it on some of my car projects.

A lot of what your list entails sounds like labor but time has its value. I can see how you can reach a $20k number but there are challenge cars (mine included) that have done as much work for little money. On the other hand while it's apart might as well do it right and budget creep.

I am curious to see how your project goes. My wife and I were talking about getting a 1980 C3 once other things settle down so I am curious to hear about your build.

I would get the car up on a lift to better assess the chassis and then get it running (going with the simplified emissions and vacuum approach). At that point you can better assess the vehicle and make a more informed decision.

Another thing to consider is that if it is just for your parents to cruise in on weekends all you need is safe, reliable and decent from 10 feet not a concours build.

AngryCorvair
AngryCorvair GRM+ Memberand UltimaDork
3/1/17 8:56 a.m.

Do your parents like air conditioning?

SEADave
SEADave HalfDork
3/1/17 9:50 a.m.

I live in the PNW, supposedly one of the milder climates in the country, and I would still rather have a car with air if I could. At the very least A/C will clear a fogged up windshield a lot quicker than just using the heater.

Otherwise, good luck in your endeavors. It seems like C3 Corvettes have a lot of potential to go up in value, or at the very least can't stay cheap like they are now for much longer.

GTXVette
GTXVette HalfDork
3/1/17 10:43 a.m.

OMG so you are going to stick your Parents, In A Totaled C-3, whilst thou Drives a c-6, Shame on you...... L o L.

itsarebuild
itsarebuild GRM+ Memberand Dork
3/1/17 1:24 p.m.

I'd say pick a cost where you think this makes sense and evaluate from there. If building this one will cost more than buying a done one I'd probably go that way.

Drunkonunleaded
Drunkonunleaded HalfDork
3/1/17 1:28 p.m.
tripp wrote: I understand the scope creep and although I don't like to admit it I think I enjoy it on some of my car projects. A lot of what your list entails sounds like labor but time has its value. I can see how you can reach a $20k number but there are challenge cars (mine included) that have done as much work for little money. On the other hand while it's apart might as well do it right and budget creep. I am curious to see how your project goes. My wife and I were talking about getting a 1980 C3 once other things settle down so I am curious to hear about your build. I would get the car up on a lift to better assess the chassis and then get it running (going with the simplified emissions and vacuum approach). At that point you can better assess the vehicle and make a more informed decision. Another thing to consider is that if it is just for your parents to cruise in on weekends all you need is safe, reliable and decent from 10 feet not a concours build.

Pretty much my sentiment, whether I like it or not. My dad hasn't had a "fun" car of his own since my sister was born and he sold his 79 Cobra. We originally picked this up as a first car, father/son project. Unfortunately, life sort of got in the way.

AngryCorvair wrote: Do your parents like air conditioning?

Dad had an AC Delete 82 Mustang GT and 2.3T 79 Cobra, don't think he minds. Mom had a 78 Firebird, also without air. They're from a different era, that's for sure. It's been a loooong time since either of them had something that they enjoyed driving. While they both drove this car occasionally before it went down, both agreed that it needed more power at a minimum. For that matter, I cannot recall a time when the tops weren't out, mainly due to the A/C never working to begin with.

GTXVette wrote: OMG so you are going to stick your Parents, In A Totaled C-3, whilst thou Drives a c-6, Shame on you...... L o L.

Funny thing with this car, my dad almost bought it from a local dealer before getting his allocation for an 82 Mustang GT. As both came to age in that era, they love the later C3s. Trust me, I've tried to push them toward a C5 for sometime now, even lending them mine. There's something about the flares and Pace Car ground effects that draw them in. While I have always lusted after a 70 LT1, the disco-era looks of the 78+ have begun to grow on me.

itsarebuild
itsarebuild GRM+ Memberand Dork
3/1/17 1:28 p.m.

In a quick craigslist search I found several options less than $10k.

Assuming a dead motor, heater, suspension, and the onlnows you will find once those work I'd say punt the project and buy another.

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 PowerDork
3/1/17 1:54 p.m.

Yup. Punt and buy a driver. Unless you have much emotional attachment to this particular car, which it doesn't seem like you do.

Financially the rebuild on a incredibly rough late c3 auto just doesn't make sense. Its up to you to decide on the emotional side. Cars and guys like me aren't purely rational.

BrokenYugo
BrokenYugo MegaDork
3/1/17 3:26 p.m.

If you want it to be a $12k car when you're done go and buy a $12k car. On the other hand, ratty muscle cars are popular right now and it doesn't cost anywhere near $20k or years of your time to rering a SBC, do some minor rust repair, and replace a bunch of bushings.

Drunkonunleaded
Drunkonunleaded HalfDork
3/1/17 8:44 p.m.
BrokenYugo wrote: If you want it to be a $12k car when you're done go and buy a $12k car. On the other hand, ratty muscle cars are popular right now and it doesn't cost anywhere near $20k or years of your time to rering a SBC, do some minor rust repair, and replace a bunch of bushings.

And therein lies the rub. If the engine turns over, I was thinking about just making it a runner and seeing if I can flip it.

At this point, I'm so spoiled by newer cars that something old outside of a Morgan or MG TC/TD doesn't excite me too much.

Crackers
Crackers Reader
3/1/17 9:46 p.m.

Sounds like you don't want to do it to me. Can't say I blame you either.

About 15 years ago I did about $7k worth of work on a 78 that drove into the shop. IIRC, about 2/3 of that was suspension and steering work. (Completely ragged out and had some bent stuff in the back end from hitting a parking curb while doing donuts) One rear trailing arm was almost $300 used back then.

The rest was catching up on deferred maintenance, fixing ancillary devices like cruise control, AC, the pop-ups (also expensive) and lots of leaks. (Oil, coolant and vacuum) I want to say we put a cam in it and had the pan off to do a 2 piece rear main, but can't remember which car that was. (We had 2 yellow C3's in at the same time getting a lot of the same work and I don't remember my college years very well. For all I know anymore, that wasn't even a Vette.

That didn't include any rust repair or paint but did include a lot of labor hours.

Depending on the engines condition and how much time you're willing to spend sourcing parts you could probably get away a lot cheaper than that.

Drunkonunleaded
Drunkonunleaded HalfDork
3/2/17 1:46 p.m.

I have the car stored down in Detroit, going to take a look at the engine this weekend/early next week and go from there.

Part of the reason that I wanted to pull the body was to check for birdcage rust, which would mean punting it without question.

It's funny, for a "glass" car, everything underneath likes to rust like crazy. I know that the weatherstripping (of all things) started to rust near the base of the window frame. Hoping that this isn't indicative of birdcage rust in that same area, I know that tinworms like to live in that area.

If the paint was 100%, it wouldn't be a question. Body is straight, bumpers decent (some atypical waves in the rear), but horrendously faded from sitting with the garage door open. The back half looks like primer.

I guess what I'm really looking for is motivation, whether I like to admit it or not.

Woody
Woody GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
3/2/17 4:10 p.m.

Pictures!

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