RITD chain drive transfer case

I saw a video on you tube where a guy built a LS powered AWD 3000gt. He used a power glide to one of these chain drive transfer cases. 
 

https://www.racinginthedirt.com/ritd-chain-belt-drives

Does it seem like it would cause some binding on in the driveline when making turns? 
 

the guy on the you tube video was set up for a drag car, but he still drove it on the street. 
 

Looks like just two shafts with a chain between them and no mechanism to allow any differential motion or slippage, so yes that will cause binding on the street, just like a 4x4 with the TC in 4WD mode.

Bog trucks in the deep South use that technology all the time, except they are encased in containers full of oil.

Been a while since I had an occasion to look at any sort of chain drive system for work, but I do remember that the roller chain shown was on the scale of the weaker systems out there.

Wonder why they went with it and what power level the system is capable of.

Is there no other reinforcement of the bearings other than just bolting them to a plate?

This is both a little unbelievable to me (that it works) and also relevant to my interests...

In reply to Robbie (Forum Supporter) :

The pic shown in this thread looks to be their DIY kit (which would probably work for your plans) but the full on models look to be completely captured and submerged in fluid.

Looks like they went to Tractor Supply for their transfer case.

I'm 100% sure an old divorced NP205 is stronger in every way and can still be found in junkyards. 

In reply to ShawnG :

What does divorced mean in the context of a transfer case? 

In reply to Somebeach (Forum Supporter) :

Not a part of the trans.  Usually with a driveshaft from the trans to the case 

ShawnG said:

Looks like they went to Tractor Supply for their transfer case.

I'm 100% sure an old divorced NP205 is stronger in every way and can still be found in junkyards. 

But also bigger and heavier, no? Granted, for a drag 3000GT, I wouldn't shy away from the bigger, heavier option.

In reply to obsolete :

Yes, but if you're running a GM trans anyway, aside from weight I'm not sure why you wouldn't just use a turbo 400 or 4L80e that you can bolt the tcase to for ease of mounting, as used in thousands of trucks. The duplex chains those use are dramatically more capable than the roller chains of those RITD boxes as well, I believe.

And sure, you can drive on the street without a center diff, but it isn't much fun. Even my Silverado with very limited grip on crappy tires feels bound up if you're turning even slightly on pavement. In a parking lot, it feels like you're going to break an axle or something.

"NMNA", I only watched some of the guy's vids and looked thru his answers in the comments.  The guy estimated the 3000GT was 3450lbs and 1400hp.

1. The car had selectable RWD/4WD, so the lack of center diff was not an issue on the street.  The front axle came from a Chevy Colorado.  He wired a switch to the central axle disconnect and used that plus the open front diff to make the front wheels effectively non-driven.  [Central axle disconnect does what it says: the output shaft from one side of the front diff is split in two, and an actuator moves a splined coupling to connect or disconnect 'em.  OEMs have used it since the 80's as a substitute for unlockable front hubs to reduce driveline drag]
2. His t-case was an enclosed machined aluminum case from RITD, definitely not the DIY kit.  Tsubaki RS80 double roller chain (HD video is fun).  The chain lasted for quite a while [9 months?] but died eventually (the master link failed, but the rest of the chain was not very happy).  Shown in this vid.
3. Why does RITD use roller chain?  Dunno, the easy answers are cost, simplicity, and it works well enough.  Yes, roller chain is much weaker than the Morse/ silent/ 'inverted tooth' chain like used in an OEM transfer case.
4. An NP205 is supposed to weigh ~140#.  The RITD t-case is supposed to weigh ~40#; it is both shorter and lower-profile than any OEM t-case ever made; and it didn't break immediately.  Also, a drag car doesn't need low range.  Even when the RITD did break, he was able to remove the chain in the pits and run as RWD. 

With open front and rear diffs would it still bind? I've driven my 4x4 on pavement and around corners(on accident) and didn't notice binding.

In reply to buzzboy :

The binding is going to happen, but it is like driving with a spool in a 2WD car, or with steering that does not have perfect Ackermann: sometimes the driver is not going to notice much (heavy vehicle, adequate power, big radius turns in alternating directions, moderate traction, etc), other times the driver going to know (light vehicle, low power, tight turn driving in a circle, massive traction).

This is the oversimplified theory: in a turn, all 4x wheels follow paths with different radii.  The front diff wants to turn at the average speed of the two front wheels.  The rear diff wants to turn at the average speed of the two rear wheels.  But these two averages are not the same.  This should be a problem even on a 3WD trike or 2WD bike...