Rotary Swap Miata (Not the CJ Wilson car)

I'm half-contemplating attempting this on my 2000 SE, for no good reason other than i think it would be cool, and i'm not limited by any rules for this car.

Questions:

1) Anyone have a link to a good build thread with lots of pictures?
2) Any reports of anyone successfully using a Miata 6spd on a 13B?

This is what i have in mind, but with 100% more fuel injection.

I don't know, I like how clean that bay is without all the sensors/wiring.

In reply to Swank Force One:

That's fuel injected.

I believe the RX8 6-speed mates up nicely with the 13B.

That IS fuel injected?

Well that's fun.

I figured the RX8 6spd would work with the motor, but the idea is to not have to mess with PPF/rear end things.

Not sure for a Miata 6 speed. I can take a picture of an RX7 transmission so you can compare bolt holes.

I thought someone here used a rx7 trans with a miata tailshaft or something like that.

moparman76_69 wrote: I thought someone here used a rx7 trans with a miata tailshaft or something like that.

RX7 transmissions are 5spd, though. And yes, i think that is what they did.

Wonder if the same thing could be done for RX8/Miata 6spd. They're both Aisin AZ6s.

I think i'm just trying to see how simple i could possibly make this. If it turns into something that looks like a huge undertaking, i'll just move forward with a high compression ported BP.

There are a few threads over on Miata.net. Google it also.

Hardest part as far as I can see is the front subframe.

All 13b rotaries share the same bell housing bolt pattern so the trans will bolt up to the back of the engine. Will bolt up to a 20b also.

Do it!

Swank Force One wrote: I'm half-contemplating attempting this on my 2000 SE, for no good reason other than i think it would be cool, and i'm not limited by any rules for this car. Questions: 1) Anyone have a link to a good build thread with lots of pictures? 2) Any reports of anyone successfully using a Miata 6spd on a 13B? This is what i have in mind, but with 100% more fuel injection.

That is fuel injected, looks like the borla slap on and go setups for carb prints. http://www.borlainduction.com/2900-series.html

ALSO that looks to be peripherial ported.

That thing looks like a clean install and I bet it sounds nice.

In reply to Swank Force One:

You need to put a rotary in the DeathScort, rebuild the V6 from it and drop THAT in the Miata.

amg_rx7 wrote: There are a few threads over on Miata.net. Google it also. Hardest part as far as I can see is the front subframe. All 13b rotaries share the same bell housing bolt pattern so the trans will bolt up to the back of the engine. Will bolt up to a 20b also. Do it!

Convert the 20b to n/a while you're at it too.....BRAPS FOR DAYS!!!!!!

amg_rx7 wrote: There are a few threads over on Miata.net. Google it also. Hardest part as far as I can see is the front subframe. All 13b rotaries share the same bell housing bolt pattern so the trans will bolt up to the back of the engine. Will bolt up to a 20b also. Do it!

And the picture is pretty clear that the front sub-frame isn't the original one. As I see it, the fabricators appear to be very proud of that- since it's so obviously different.

Clean.

Although, I can't really see the reason why one would use a timing belt to just turn the alternator. Plenty of wide grooved belts to use.

petegossett wrote: In reply to Swank Force One: You need to put a rotary in the DeathScort, rebuild the V6 from it and drop THAT in the Miata.

So much nope in one sentence.

alfadriver wrote:

amg_rx7 wrote: There are a few threads over on Miata.net. Google it also. Hardest part as far as I can see is the front subframe. All 13b rotaries share the same bell housing bolt pattern so the trans will bolt up to the back of the engine. Will bolt up to a 20b also. Do it!

And the picture is pretty clear that the front sub-frame isn't the original one. As I see it, the fabricators appear to be very proud of that- since it's so obviously different. Clean. Although, I can't really see the reason why one would use a timing belt to just turn the alternator. Plenty of wide grooved belts to use.

The "timing belt" is a Gilmer belt drive setup. Pretty common in the rotary world.

DO IT!!! Aside from that (i know Keith can chime in) but I know the NC sub frame and the FE are interchangeable with little effort, now electronics and the drive shaft could be a bit of a custom job.

For the NB though an S4 turbo 2 with a b2200 trans and piss off all sorts of people!

JtspellS wrote: DO IT!!! Aside from that (i know Keith can chime in) but I know the NC sub frame and the FE are interchangeable with little effort, now electronics and the drive shaft could be a bit of a custom job. For the NB though an S4 turbo 2 with a b2200 trans and piss off all sorts of people!

That's the issue... my arbitrary requirement is that i keep the 6spd and PPF. If this is impossibru or damn near, then i just lost interest pretty quickly.

And if i go turbo (and i won't), i wouldn't mess with a smooth case. I have a B2600 trans that would do well.

Swank Force One wrote:

alfadriver wrote:

amg_rx7 wrote: There are a few threads over on Miata.net. Google it also. Hardest part as far as I can see is the front subframe. All 13b rotaries share the same bell housing bolt pattern so the trans will bolt up to the back of the engine. Will bolt up to a 20b also. Do it!

And the picture is pretty clear that the front sub-frame isn't the original one. As I see it, the fabricators appear to be very proud of that- since it's so obviously different. Clean. Although, I can't really see the reason why one would use a timing belt to just turn the alternator. Plenty of wide grooved belts to use.

The "timing belt" is a Gilmer belt drive setup. Pretty common in the rotary world.

Why, though? Are the power requirmenets for this car so high that you need to have massive torque ability to spin the alternator?

Or does the alternator need to be timed perfectly with the engine?

The cogs either allow more torque OR time it very accurately. Niether of which is needed to spin an alternator.

Seems to be an expensive answer to a cheap question.

My guess would be that it's an RPM thing.

Swank Force One wrote: My guess would be that it's an RPM thing.

Well, unless they are going for REALLY high numbers, any belt will still work. Especially since it's a rotary, and has very smooth pulses.

Still, for your work- that sub frame will be trick. Are there any pictures of that anywhere? I thought I heard that the width would be the problem- but I obviously heard wrong.

And something that seems well within the boundary of many GRM'ers.

you see high hp rotaries run the glimmer, but 90% of us don't need it. There are a large portion of people who run them anyways and I'm not sure why.

The subframe looks like a v8 roadsters unit with engine mounts for the rotary. That is the way I would go if swapping one in a Miata.

I think a few guys have been using the bare V8R tubular subframe, though i could be wrong.

JRX seems to have made subframes in the past. No idea which one was pictured, though.

Interesting. Well, the Mongrel Motorsports guys made their own subframe for the 2003 challenge.

Are there any other major sticking points for this swap than that?

If i remember right, steering column is an issue. And sump, but that may be why the custom subframe.

For my purposes, i'm worried about being able to keep the PPF/6spd.