Car in question, a '99 CR-V. 111k miles, 5spd, clean, and $3900.
I'm mostly curious on how good the AWD system is. But any usefull info would be great.
Car in question, a '99 CR-V. 111k miles, 5spd, clean, and $3900.
I'm mostly curious on how good the AWD system is. But any usefull info would be great.
The ride can be a little bouncy and it is by no means a "corner carvering machine." That is about the worst that I can say about them.
5 speeds are some what rare, most got automatics.
As far as AWD, if I remember correctly, it is a torque slip system meaning that power only is delivered to the rear wheel when (and if) the front wheels loose grip. Not to be confused with locking transfer case and real offroad but I think they have a reputation of good reliability.
Hmmm.
It's interesting to me to see the momentum that reputations have.....
Let me be the lone (mild) dissenter: I know a couple people who bought them and they were money pits. They may have been isolated experiences, I don't know.
I do know that those rear driveshafts look laughable. I know they work, but do they ever LOOK wrong.
Nathan
The rear diff fluid must be changed at least every 60K miles or the diff plates wear and no power gets transmitted...you wind up with FWD only. Make sure the valves were checked/adjusted at an interval more frequent than reccomended in the owners manual. B20s had a tendancy to burn up exhaust valves if not adjusted properly...for some reason Honda had increased the adjustment interval which wound up being a mistake.
I just drove an old Suzuki Grand Vitara home from the dealership today(where I work btw). I forgot how entertaining they are. With the V6 and 5sp, it's surprising.
Of course I bring that up because it's the same age/price/mileage range as the example in question, and it even has a proper low-range transfer case.
jrw1621 wrote: The ride can be a little bouncy and it is by no means a "corner carvering machine." That is about the worst that I can say about them. 5 speeds are some what rare, most got automatics. As far as AWD, if I remember correctly, it is a torque slip system meaning that power only is delivered to the rear wheel when (and if) the front wheels loose grip. Not to be confused with locking transfer case and real offroad but I think they have a reputation of good reliability.
I agree completely, I need to add though that you need to make sure the water pump and timing belt have been changed. Also by now your shocks will most likely be crap and your suspension bushing will be soft as well, something to consider.
Why are you looking at a 1st gen crv? Just curious
Those cars are solid as granite, if you keep up the care. My old boss had one with over 200k miles on it. They were hard New Jersey commuting miles, but that car was solid as hell..
I think Gamby has a high mileage one...
AWD is the same 'Real-Time' system used on the 88-91 Civic Wagovan, IIRC. Not the same components, but the same system. Viscous coupling to the rear wheels, works well on ice and dirt, but don't expect much in mud or deep snow.
The funniest thing to me about them is the chassis is just like a civic, most of the raised hight is in the body work. It's essentially a Civic wagon with a body lift.
digdug18 wrote: Why are you looking at a 1st gen crv? Just curious
I have acctually been on the look out for a similar Forester as a new DD, but this has popped up.
On a side note, how would the CR-V stand up to a 1st gen Forester? Would the forester be more car-like?
xci_ed6 wrote: AWD is the same 'Real-Time' system used on the 88-91 Civic Wagovan, IIRC. Not the same components, but the same system. Viscous coupling to the rear wheels, works well on ice and dirt, but don't expect much in mud or deep snow. The funniest thing to me about them is the chassis is just like a civic, most of the raised hight is in the body work. It's essentially a Civic wagon with a body lift.
While they are similar, the CR-V has a different Realtime system. It has dual fluid pumps in the rear differential to regulate the transfer of torque, while the 88-91 civic wagon has a simple viscous coupling in the middle of the driveshaft.
I believe the only reason for the sub-30mpg rating is its height off the ground. If brought back down to regular Civic ride height it would probably pick up a better aero profile.
My grandparents had a first gen that they took off the beaten path quite a lot. I was told a story about getting stuck in a sand dune, everyone getting out to push, 4wd kicking in and it shooting over the crest. Only reason they have a third gen is because some fool pulled out in front of them and borked the old one.
Sounds like there is a good bit to look out for, esp. the rear diff. Any way to check that? How bad will the motor get if it hadnt had the valves tuned up, or t-belt/water pump replaced?
Man, the only question I really asked on my last neon was when the timing belt was done. I then proceded to pay as much in repairs in the first year as what I bought it for. Not counting tires.
You realize, of course, that if you buy a Honda, your Neon credentials will be revoked. You may have to change your screen name...
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