I have the same seat in mine. On sliders it was way to high. I mounted the side mounts directly to some steel flat bar bolted to the stock mounting holes.
Maybe that would give it a better angle for your knees?
I have the same seat in mine. On sliders it was way to high. I mounted the side mounts directly to some steel flat bar bolted to the stock mounting holes.
Maybe that would give it a better angle for your knees?
You've got at least another 6" in an Exocet with a 15" wide seat. (Yes, 6"). 17" Kirkey Road Race seats only give you another 2-3". That 2-3" is more than I need for my 6'2" self. I am also a bit uncomfortable in my DD NB2, if it helps to know.
EvanB wrote: I have the same seat in mine. On sliders it was way to high. I mounted the side mounts directly to some steel flat bar bolted to the stock mounting holes. Maybe that would give it a better angle for your knees?
I'm not using the standard rails, but the original Bride ones. They sit you very, very low. I also have the Garage Star side mounts that are supposed to be the lowest you can get that bolt to the original mounting holes and they can't get the seat any lower either. Same angle, though, but I'll try to see where they get me if I use to tilt the seat back a little.
Warren v wrote: You've got at least another 6" in an Exocet with a 15" wide seat. (Yes, 6"). 17" Kirkey Road Race seats only give you another 2-3". That 2-3" is more than I need for my 6'2" self. I am also a bit uncomfortable in my DD NB2, if it helps to know.
Thanks Warren. I assume these are outside widths, right?
Having 2-3 inches more is probably all I need.
gofastbobby wrote: So, are you looking for advice about how to fit in your Miata or what your next project should be?
Yes 
.
I've already got a shortlist for its possible replacements, although some of the choices depend on when I can sell the car(s) to get the rest of the money I need for the replacement.
So far the short list looks something like this, but my budget is only about $8k-$10k so some of them are going to be hard to fit into the budget.
I don't think I want an E36 M3.
BoxheadTim wrote:gofastbobby wrote: So, are you looking for advice about how to fit in your Miata or what your next project should be?Yes
Blasphemy I know, but I'd rather have any of those over a miata. Except the Porsche.
In reply to BoxheadTim:
I've got a solid '75 280Z I will sell you for WAY below your budget. It's stock and ready for whatever you want to do with it!
In reply to sethmeister4:
Might be interested, although I'd have to factor in transport costs. Please PM me provided it's a running and streetable car.
FD in that price range are basket cases. I own an FD and am involved in the community.
An RX-8 and NC Miata chassis are very similar. If you like the way the Miata drives, check out an RX-8.
Same reason I sold my Miata. If you pay close attention, you can see all of my annoying threads about which car to buy next.
amg_rx7 wrote: FD in that price range are basket cases. I own an FD and am involved in the community.
That's what I suspected. For an FD I had hoped I could pick up one with a blown engine and swap in a rebuilt one. That'll probably put me slightly over the budget but that's how I got my last one and there's a chance I don't end up paying for their mistakes immediately.
My main problem is that all the cars that I'd really like are in the 15-20k range and I'm not sure I want to sit it out for another two years before I have the money to buy one.
BoxheadTim wrote:EvanB wrote: I have the same seat in mine. On sliders it was way to high. I mounted the side mounts directly to some steel flat bar bolted to the stock mounting holes. Maybe that would give it a better angle for your knees?I'm not using the standard rails, but the original Bride ones. They sit you very, very low. I also have the Garage Star side mounts that are supposed to be the lowest you can get that bolt to the original mounting holes and they can't get the seat any lower either. Same angle, though, but I'll try to see where they get me if I use to tilt the seat back a little.
Grrrrrrrrrr.
OK, so I tilted the seat back one notch on the Garage Star mounts. It does improve the knee angle noticeably.
Well, it would if I know wouldn't bang my knee against the cover on the steering column from time to time. I'm feeling like I'm a plus-size model trying to squeeze myself into a size 0 dress.
How do you fit in an NC?
I've got a cream puff of an '06 Grand Touring (6spd/leather/BOSE) with the sport package (bilstein/LSD) I'm going to put up for sale soon. Only 43k miles.
Never tried an NC to be honest.
Remove these:
Bend these:
Mount to floor:
BoxheadTim wrote: Never tried an NC to be honest.
Go try one. If I could justify it as a dedicated track car, I'd pick it over an NA/NB in a heartbeat.......better daily driver too.
It turns in just as well, has great brakes, more power, and a much stiffer chassis than the NA/NB.
Suspension/pads/tires, and if you want the extra 25-30whp Intake/exhaust/tune........it would make one hell of a dual-duty car.
Find an 86-89 Integra, drop engine into your CRX, buy some used springs and torsion bars from someone over on redpepperracing? It's a swap so easy a bunch of Midwesterners who'd never worked on Hondas before did it, and it survived several years of rallycrossing, the last few with the radiator fins packed with mud.
As someone in a similar boat (Miata, 6'3'' though mostly torso) I can vouch that the suggestions made by our friend the cowboy can eke out a little more room.
I can also say that from what I recall a stock s2k won't afford too much of an improvement for driver space... and offers all of the impracticality of the miata.
(I'm similarly less than jazzed about my miata, though haven't 'gotten enough use out of it' to justify taking the hit for selling it)
BoxheadTim wrote: Thanks Warren. I assume these are outside widths, right? Having 2-3 inches more is probably all I need.
Nope, inside.
http://www.kirkeyracing.com/related/Related%20Files/Shop%20Drawings/47700-Shop-Drawing.gif
BoxheadTim wrote:amg_rx7 wrote: FD in that price range are basket cases. I own an FD and am involved in the community.That's what I suspected. For an FD I had hoped I could pick up one with a blown engine and swap in a rebuilt one. That'll probably put me slightly over the budget but that's how I got my last one and there's a chance I don't end up paying for their mistakes immediately. My main problem is that all the cars that I'd really like are in the 15-20k range and I'm not sure I want to sit it out for another two years before I have the money to buy one.
If you want a project, it's a very entertaining car to drive and work on. Think of it like a big Miata.
You could do that with the motor but you'd still have to address the cooling issues for track use. Easy answer is a V-mount intercooler / radiator setup which is about $2k new. The engine wiring harness also tends to get crispy over time. Lots have been replaced but you never know with an $8k FD. Turbos also get tired ($2k for new twins). Brakes are not up to the task of heavy track use but you can get by for a season or so depending on your skill level.
Suspension is good. All it needs is a set of shocks and springs for track use. Suspension bushings tend to need replacement though. It's a 20 year old, temperamental car but once sorted they are a blast. And quite nice looking.
Interiors aren't particularly durable either.
Even an 8k FD can wind up costing 15k when all is said and done in my experience. Sorted ones hold their value quite well. Peruse: http://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-rx-7-1993-2002-vehicles-107/
the RX8 is the easy button comparatively. Just add shocks and springs and catch up on deferred maintenance. The RX8 and NC are a bit easier to drive than the FD.
Back to the Miata, what Woody mentioned is the best way to install a fiberglass race / bucket seat in the Miata for tall, lanky guys. No sliders with the rear bracket mounted to the floor.
Get an Alfa Milano. I had one as a DD for a few years, it was plenty reliable for that, and actually really easy to work on. They seem to work well as track cars too. I drove a miata once (1990 I think), and it was very similar to driving a Milano. Milanos are cheap too, for less than $10k you could buy one, do all the maintenance, and do the suspension mods needed for track use (mainly shocks, springs and torsion bars, and a big front swaybar).
amg_rx7 wrote: Brakes are not up to the task of heavy track use but you can get by for a season or so depending on your skill level.
So, with fresh fluid, proper track pads and ducting, the stock brakes still can't handle track duty?
Sorry, this is just one of things I read a lot (Not about FDs just in general) and I'm confused by.
The only reason I have Wilwoods at all four corners on the Miata was to shed weight and decrease the cost of consumables by virtue of them lasting longer.
eastsidemav wrote: Find an 86-89 Integra, drop engine into your CRX, buy some used springs and torsion bars from someone over on redpepperracing? It's a swap so easy a bunch of Midwesterners who'd never worked on Hondas before did it, and it survived several years of rallycrossing, the last few with the radiator fins packed with mud.
I just don't get along with FWD for a track car, otherwise a 1st gen CRX with a B16 swap and a Mugen bodykit (copy, I assume) that was for sale locally would already be mine....
z31maniac wrote:amg_rx7 wrote: Brakes are not up to the task of heavy track use but you can get by for a season or so depending on your skill level.So, with fresh fluid, proper track pads and ducting, the stock brakes still can't handle track duty? Sorry, this is just one of things I read a lot (Not about FDs just in general) and I'm confused by.
With good fluid, proper track pads and ducting, the stock, tiny 11.6" diameter brakes have a chance at surviving the heat that an Advanced level driver / racer will generate driving it like a race car on track. You will go through pads and rotors quicker than if you had a nice 13" big brake kit though and it adds up depending how often you track the car.
The front brakes were way undersized for the power levels, grip and resulting braking needs that the FD is capable of. How quickly you'll go through them is going to depend on driver but it is a weak spot for heavy track use.
RX8 front rotors are 12.4" diameter and thicker iirc
No back to Tim's thread
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