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gearheadmb
gearheadmb Reader
9/7/15 9:43 a.m.

What a weird design. I don't understand how you're supposed to do it when its not locked up.

Trackmouse
Trackmouse HalfDork
9/7/15 10:19 a.m.

Wha.... Why would they do that!?!?!?!?!? I'm sorry, I wouldn't even bother with a engine designed by Donald trump...

Knurled
Knurled GRM+ Memberand UltimaDork
9/7/15 10:29 a.m.

In reply to Trackmouse:

It was probably a lot easier to cast/machine an inline block that way. Separate bellhousings on the BLOCK were fairly common, in much the same way that it is common today for there to be no separate "bellhousing" at all, transmission bolts directly to engine.

It never clicked with me that you'd have to have the flywheel off to remove them from the engine. I'd never had to dig into one that deeply. If I do remember right, the drivetrain partially mounted off of that bellhousing, so clutch service was actually made easier with this design. No need to remove the motor mounts, just drop it out the bottom.

They used to make frames out of discrete stampings and then rivet them together, too And wait 'til you hear about the Chevy inlines where the vacuum advance rotated the whole distributor instead of just the internals.

Production technology changes design.

Knurled
Knurled GRM+ Memberand UltimaDork
9/7/15 10:40 a.m.

Back to the OP, if four of the pistons are at DC, it's probably the other two that are stuck. The crank should have enough leverage against the other four to force them to move.

Assuming that the rings or pistons rusted to the cylinders, of course.

Kenny_McCormic
Kenny_McCormic UltimaDork
9/7/15 11:30 a.m.
Grtechguy wrote:
Kenny_McCormic wrote: Sorry, I'm still confused how the flywheel is hiding bolts for a part that needs to be removed in order to remove the flywheel. Sure you aren't missing the bellhousing parting line under the grime and looking at the block/rear plate line instead (if so equipped)? I've made dumber mistakes before. Edit: OK, now I think I get it, forgot how old bells often only cover half flywheel. So it's supposed to come apart, in order of removal, Trans>>flywheel shield>PP/disc>flywheel>bell? In that case I'd do what oldopelguy suggested.
Does this hotlinked pic help?

Makes perfect sense now, unbolt the crank like oldopelguy said, and roll the clutch/flywheel out still bolted to the crank.

Grtechguy
Grtechguy UltimaDork
9/7/15 11:40 a.m.

I was expecting to see rust and corrosion.

Knurled
Knurled GRM+ Memberand UltimaDork
9/7/15 12:00 p.m.

Nothing looks blue, so it's probably a stuck piston.

What's the collector value of this stuff? I realize that it's scrap metal to you but I don't know the GMC inline market. Some of these older engines, people scrounge all over for a good rod or two or a block that isn't sagged in the middle from 70 years of supporting its own weight.

JEEZ look at those rods! They sure weren't afraid of using iron back then.

Grtechguy
Grtechguy UltimaDork
9/7/15 12:09 p.m.

Oh, there is value to the pieces. Just the block is cracked and worthless. I'll try to recoup a few dollars in parting this one and the interchanged parts from the new engine

NOHOME
NOHOME UberDork
9/7/15 12:32 p.m.

If saving the old block and rods, make a bridge piece out of 1/4' plate, drill a 1/2" hole so that it is right in the middle of the cylinder and use a piece of threaded rod to make a pusher. Actually make a few of them so you can push down on any pistons that are not at TDC.

The other option is to go rent a jackhammer and using a piece of plate cut to fit loosely inside the cylinder, jackhammer the E36 M3 out of each piston.

. Head back on. weld some quick disconnect fitting into some old spark plugs and apply full pressure from your compressor. I would have the cylinders half full of ATF before doing this.

If you want to go all mcgiver mad-scientist, put the head back on with no pushrods, flood the cylinders that are on the way down with an oxy-acetylene mix, put plugs back in and fire that puppy off from a safe distance (if there is such a thing)

In the same vein you can mix up a batch of thermite, fill each cylinder and wait for things to free up. http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Thermite

Pretty sure that NaOH will eat the pistons out over a couple of days and leave your cylinders intact. HCL is you are in a hurry and dont care about the block.

Kenny_McCormic
Kenny_McCormic UltimaDork
9/7/15 1:57 p.m.

In reply to NOHOME:

Head on, mod spark plug, fill one of the bores with piston halfway down (max leverage) with ATF, and hook up the porta power pump. Or pick one near TDC and hit it with the grease gun.

Acetylene will make for a nice claymore mine.

Knurled
Knurled GRM+ Memberand UltimaDork
9/7/15 2:04 p.m.

HCL won't really hurt the block either. I've used it to remove galled aluminum from an iron cylinder and a cast crank. The only PITA is having to neutralize it afterward.

My new favorite derust chemical is salty vinegar. It works more slowly than HCL but not glacially slow like feed molasses. And it isn't the biohazard that HCL is. Heck, add a little tomato to it and you have ketchup. (Which also works but the smell of rusty ketchup is AWFUL)

NOHOME
NOHOME UberDork
9/7/15 6:21 p.m.
Kenny_McCormic wrote: In reply to NOHOME: Acetylene will make for a nice claymore mine.

He did say that the parts were expendable!

chiodos
chiodos HalfDork
9/7/15 8:10 p.m.

Explosions of oxy acetylene, thermite, and talks of claymore mines? I think were on to something here guys!

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 UltraDork
9/7/15 8:31 p.m.

Parts are valuable. Therefore, least damage is best.

Unbolt the mains and rods, remove crank/flywheel/clutch. Then start hitting individual pistons with atf and propane. After a couple rounds, return to sledge.

NOHOME
NOHOME UberDork
9/7/15 8:52 p.m.
chiodos wrote: Explosions of oxy acetylene, thermite, and talks of claymore mines? I think were on to something here guys!

To be fair, I did offer some less drastic options, but everyone failed to note those! Just trying to keep this grassroots and work with whats in the garage.

Grtechguy
Grtechguy UltimaDork
9/8/15 7:28 a.m.

I'm just working on removing the crank now. Balancer has been pulled from the snout, rod connecting nuts removed.

Just need to bend the metal safety tabs back on the crank bolts and pray there's enough room to pull the crank out with the flywheel attached.

Spinout007
Spinout007 GRM+ Memberand UberDork
9/8/15 8:52 a.m.

Wood block above piston, FULL swing with a BFH after a full soak in ATF/MMO. Works with boat engines.

tuna55
tuna55 MegaDork
9/8/15 9:18 a.m.
NOHOME wrote:
chiodos wrote: Explosions of oxy acetylene, thermite, and talks of claymore mines? I think were on to something here guys!
To be fair, I did offer some less drastic options, but everyone failed to note those! Just trying to keep this grassroots and work with whats in the garage.

KA-BAM!

What garage?

NOHOME
NOHOME UberDork
9/8/15 2:39 p.m.
tuna55 wrote:
NOHOME wrote:
chiodos wrote: Explosions of oxy acetylene, thermite, and talks of claymore mines? I think were on to something here guys!
To be fair, I did offer some less drastic options, but everyone failed to note those! Just trying to keep this grassroots and work with whats in the garage.
KA-BAM! What garage?

Hey...so I'm not the kind of guy you put on speakerphone!

Grtechguy
Grtechguy UltimaDork
9/8/15 2:54 p.m.

yep.. Let's keep my garage and keep me off certain watch lists.

Knurled
Knurled GRM+ Memberand UltimaDork
9/8/15 4:30 p.m.

As in "Watch out, the wind shifted and it's comin' down this way!"

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