Snap On torque wrenches

Yes, I've seen the video here comparing all the torque wrenches.  That's why I went out and bought an Icon 3/8" torque wrench from the Hammer Store.  Unfortunately it's pretty much a hammer, as the wrench doesn't "click" when the set torque is hit.  It'll let you keep on cranking away until you've snapped the bolt off.

That's clearly not optimal and I'm tired of buying cheaper torque wrenches and having this happen.  So time to get a Snap On, at least for the 3.8".  They have one that ranges from 5ft-75ft, which is pretty much what I need.  However there's a TON of different models of them and beyond the obvious (digital vs analog, flex head vs fixed) I'm having a hard time figuring out what's the one I should get.

There are quite a few on eBay that I'm looking at since they're 1/2 price.  Can anyone help me choose one?

Fwiw, I bought an icon torque wrench for work and sent it out for calibration.  It was the 1st torque wrench that passed cal with no adjustments.  From Pittsburgh to proto, they all were bought new and failed initial cal.

I found the click of the icon to be pretty noticeable.   Its due for it 1 year cal this month so we'll see how it does.

I like the plain old Snap-On clicker style.

No batteries to go dead or leak, no display to try to watch. Just turn it to the desired torque and listen for the click.

In reply to Kendall_Jones :

Where do you get yours calibrated???  The only place I could find (in Los Angeles) wanted several hundred dollars. 

can the Snap on truck guy get it calibrated ?  or Mac truck guy if thats what it is ..........

if so , how much ?

I need accredited 17025 calibration with pre & post data, you know, for the paper trail :)

That being said I use novastar in Michigan.  They are pretty cheap, I'd have to check the invoice but I think its in the 50 dollar range?  NIST cal is probably cheaper.

I remember I bought one if those 9.99 Pittsburgh torque wrenches and sent it out for cal.  It was so far out of cal that they had to sub contract a repair shop to fix it - I think it needed over a hundred bucks in repairs (it was a flat rate charge i think) & now have the most expensive $10 torque wrench in the world.  And yes, I could have had them return it but it wasn't my $$ :)

FWIW, I had a cheap POS torque wrench in my box until last month.

It stayed with me because it was in NM and I didn't have to math to use it like I did with my small FT/LB wrench.

Tightening an engine bolt with it and my calibrated elbow went "Hey, this feels like way too much".

Turns out it had already clicked at so light a setting that I didn't feel it and I was overtightening bolts. I checked it against a good Snap-On wrench and discovered what was going on.

It quickly went in the bin and will be replaced shortly.

Not worth trusting a cheapo torque wrench.

docwyte said:

Yes, I've seen the video here comparing all the torque wrenches.  That's why I went out and bought an Icon 3/8" torque wrench from the Hammer Store.  Unfortunately it's pretty much a hammer, as the wrench doesn't "click" when the set torque is hit.  It'll let you keep on cranking away until you've snapped the bolt off.

That's clearly not optimal and I'm tired of buying cheaper torque wrenches and having this happen.  So time to get a Snap On, at least for the 3.8".  They have one that ranges from 5ft-75ft, which is pretty much what I need.  However there's a TON of different models of them and beyond the obvious (digital vs analog, flex head vs fixed) I'm having a hard time figuring out what's the one I should get.

There are quite a few on eBay that I'm looking at since they're 1/2 price.  Can anyone help me choose one?

Get a CDI torque wrench.  They make Snap Ons wrenches and you save some money.  Mine came with a large set of Williams tools (snap on industrial brand).  Enjoy.

AnthonyGS (Forum Supporter) said:

docwyte said:

Yes, I've seen the video here comparing all the torque wrenches.  That's why I went out and bought an Icon 3/8" torque wrench from the Hammer Store.  Unfortunately it's pretty much a hammer, as the wrench doesn't "click" when the set torque is hit.  It'll let you keep on cranking away until you've snapped the bolt off.

That's clearly not optimal and I'm tired of buying cheaper torque wrenches and having this happen.  So time to get a Snap On, at least for the 3.8".  They have one that ranges from 5ft-75ft, which is pretty much what I need.  However there's a TON of different models of them and beyond the obvious (digital vs analog, flex head vs fixed) I'm having a hard time figuring out what's the one I should get.

There are quite a few on eBay that I'm looking at since they're 1/2 price.  Can anyone help me choose one?

Get a CDI torque wrench.  They make Snap Ons wrenches and you save some money.  Mine came with a large set of Williams tools (snap on industrial brand).  Enjoy.

This man is correct. Snap On owns CDI and that's who makes all of their branded torque wrenches. You can buy them for reasonable prices. Mine have all come with calibration certificates. I like them so much that I gave away all of my various torque wrench collection and replaced them with CDI across the board. They come in nice cases too.

In reply to Cousin_Eddie (Forum Supporter) :

I have a 3/8" and 1/2".  I plan to add a 1/4" soon.  Nice tool box layout.

In reading the CDI torque wrench reviews on Amazon it sound like they don't "click" on the lower torque settings.  I want to buy the 3/8" 5-75ft lbs wrench and people are complaining that if its set at anything under 15ft lbs, the wrench doesn't click, leading to over torque and broken fasteners.

You guys having that issue too?  Or is this a case where on a lower torque fastener I really need to be using a 1/4" drive wrench?

I was about to ask a similar question as doc. A lot of old Japanese motorcycle torque specs are low, very low newton/meters. The valve adjustment screws are like 7n•m. 

I'd get a 1/4" torque wrench for the low values, for the really low stuff like Appleseed mentions there are even smaller 1/4" torque wrenches for the bicycle industry that operate well in those really low ranges and are typically in nm.

PARK TOOLS RATCHETING CLICK-TYPE TORQUE WRENCH — 2 TO 14 NM

Appleseed said:

I was about to ask a similar question as doc. A lot of old Japanese motorcycle torque specs are low, very low newton/meters. The valve adjustment screws are like 7n•m. 

I use a dial type torque screwdriver for low torque fasteners.

I have a Snap-On and a smaller CDI. Both clicker style, no batteries required. The CDI has the twist ring to set it, the Snap-On has the side dial and a flex head. The latter is a bit easier to set but functionally there's no real difference. I also have a small Mastercraft.

I try not to get too close to the limits of the wrenches - I feel they're least likely to be accurate there. I'll have to see how low the CDI goes, it's probably that 5-75 unit and I've never had it fail to click. One of my wrenches goes into in-lbs, that's what I'd use for a 7 Nm bolt.

Ok, so I'll buy the 5-75ft lb 3/8" one and the 20-300 inch lb 1/4" drive one...

I too have a CDI... mine is from 20-150, and I have a Craftsman 1/4" drive that measures from 25 inch pounds (rough 2 foot pounds) to 250inch pounds(roughly 21 foot pounds)

Neither has failed to indicate the measured torque (click or feel)

In reply to oldeskewltoy :

Yeah, I just put three CDI wrenches in my Amazon wish list.  A 1/4" 20-250 in lb (2.5-20ft lbs) a 3/8" 10-100 ft lbs and a 1/2" 20-250ft lbs.  That should cover everything for me.  I'll toss my Husky 1/2" torque wrench in my tire trailer to use at the track and get rid of my other torque wrenches that don't work...

A lot of good comments here about torque wrenches, selecting the right range, etc.  now someone should go over the proper way to hold them to ensure it works optimally.  Granted access to bolts and nuts can create issue but applying proper counter torque is important.  Also making sure the fasteners are clean and lubricated if applicable is equally important.

AnthonyGS (Forum Supporter) said:

A lot of good comments here about torque wrenches, selecting the right range, etc.  now someone should go over the proper way to hold them to ensure it works optimally.  Granted access to bolts and nuts can create issue but applying proper counter torque is important.  Also making sure the fasteners are clean and lubricated if applicable is equally important.

also  if you did not put on the lug nuts,loosen them some and retorque to spec,

you have no idea how high the air impact slammed them on !

In the picture I posted of mine above, you can zoom in and see the model numbers there on the cases. You can also see the Snap On brand below the CDI. I have a 1/4" in/lb unit, a 3/8, and a 1/2. The three serve me well in all automotive situations I've ever encountered. None have ever failed to perform properly and click. I believe I bought all of mine through Zoro (Grainger) under their periodic discount coupon program they run a few times per year. I went that route as it wound up being cheaper than Amazon.