A 99 technoviolet coupe. 155k Miles. Now what?
I might take it on a 1400 mile road trip. I was told I need a thin wall 32mm, a couple gallons of water and water wetter, and a 4 leaf clover.
A 99 technoviolet coupe. 155k Miles. Now what?
I might take it on a 1400 mile road trip. I was told I need a thin wall 32mm, a couple gallons of water and water wetter, and a 4 leaf clover.
Nice! My 1st e36 m3 was Daytona violet, it's actually how I came up with my screen name 17 years ago.
Cooling system and check the bushings. Did it come with any receipts?
nice, looks pretty unmolested too. I am not a big fan of the blue end of the spectrum, but still a nicely unusual colour
In reply to pimpm3 :
I know the previous owner pretty well. I’ve even let him race my chumpcar. Gave me a laundry list of things he’s done. Even got some fresh rubber.
Jealous! That is the best color. I’d love to get one just like it as a more kid friendly DD than my Miata.
What are your plans for it?
Replace the cooling system soup to nuts. Check the rear shock mounts and rear trailing arm bushings. Otherwise they're solid cars...
docwyte said:Replace the cooling system soup to nuts. Check the rear shock mounts and rear trailing arm bushings.
Pretty much my first two thoughts, also check for tearing in or near the rear subframe.
Great color!
The M3 rear subframes were reinforced by the factory, so you should be alright. Never hurts to check though. Ask your buddy when he replaced the cooling system last. If it hasn't been done, plan on it:
Clunking towards the rear of the car is likely rear shock bushings, or RTABS (rear trailing arm bushings) Also, if you hear a rattle that's hard to locate, check the bolt that holds the diff onto the subframe--- they can work loose over time. Active Autowerks makes a nice brace to solve this issue:
Beware, if you get more aggressive with your subframe / RTAB bushings, the car will transmit more NVH. If it's going to be a street car, you may want to be conservative. If you are going to track it--- the extra NVH is worth the dynamic gains.
These also respond very well to a lighter flywheel---really makes them chomp at the bit! The Shark Injector re-flash is a no-downside mod that will gain a few hp, raise the redline and remove the speed limiter.
I'd also recommend buying an X-brace for the front subframe. These came with the convertibles, and make a noticeable difference in tightening the car up. They can also be found cheaply!
Great score, in a fantastic color! Drive the wheels off of it! When right, they are one of the best driving cars ever made. I never intend on selling mine!
Nice car! I loved my 99 M3. It was a lot of performance in a useable package. Enjoy! It looks like you've got the 8.5s all the way around which is great. And some suspension work too. That really makes them even more fun.
Mine left me stranded once when the power steering line blew off. Check that, the line near the banjo bolt seems to fail. The starter also went out, so did the clutch line from the master to the slave. It also ate a lot of ignition coils. I never had a problem with the cooling system, but I'm probably the one person who didn't.
I still miss driving that car hard.
Thanks for all the great info. I have an 8 mile commute for work so this will be a daily. I’ve got s2000 as a reliable backup lol. Maybe a few track days. I’m also going to restore the interior and paint work
The prior owner did this.
M50 intake, z3 intake elbow, active auto exhaust, h&r springs, bilsteins, poly RTABS, boxed rear arms, clutch kit, shift pin detents, driver shaft center bearing, stainless brake lines, aluminum radiator, new water pump and expansion tank.
docwyte said:I'd swap out those poly rtab's for a set of stock ones with delrin limiters...
Could you elaborate why? I'm genuinely curious as I dont know a whole lot about these things.
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