So...I just bought an RX-7 Turbo II, School Me-Page 2| Grassroots Motorsports forum |

BoxheadTim GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
5/14/18 3:08 p.m.

In reply to wvumtnbkr :

My concern was the idle AFR, but hey, if it idles alright...

wvumtnbkr GRM+ Memberand UltraDork
5/14/18 3:13 p.m.

BoxheadTim said:
In reply to wvumtnbkr :

My concern was the idle AFR, but hey, if it idles alright...

That is easy to adjust in these cars.

There is a small round thing near the passenger side shock tower that has a bit of bubble gum in it. It says L and R on it. Once you remove the bubble gum, you can adjust the idle AFR richer just by turning it with a small screwdriver. Make small adjustments slowly.

BTD Reader
5/14/18 3:14 p.m.

BoxheadTim said:
In reply to wvumtnbkr :

My concern was the idle AFR, but hey, if it idles alright...

It idles a bit high and rough, presumably due to the lean AFR at idle. Drives great once it's moving, which makes sense since those AFR's are spot on.

@wvumtnbkr - I'll have to look for that adjustment, might help quite a bit.

fidelity101 UltraDork
5/14/18 3:24 p.m.

A few things/suggestions/pointers:

for the suspensions/brakes/wheel bearings done and it runs/stops/drives? hell of a deal. those camber plates are 500 for the pair and if all of these parts are in good condition and as rust free as that it is - well worth the buy.
you cant replace the races in the front hubs EASILY, so most people just toss bearings into old races and call it good - its fine. otherwise the whole hub is for sale with bearings from mazda for about 550 a pop... WITH the racer discount
your tires are on the wheels backwards, the big end is supposed to face front, not the tiny end of the teardrop - we call this BWM (backwards wheel mod) in the rotard world
if it was tuned, its probably an rtek 1.7 or 1.8 because of the 72lb secondaries but if its a 2.0 then its tuneable via palm pilot and who knows what was done
not sure what seam welding the subframe is gonna do but autocrossers tend to do weird things anyways but it has some decent but not wild mods done to it so the owner must have had an agenda
ditch the oil metering system and premix it, 1oz for every 1 gal of gasoline and I would run premium just incase because these computers are dumb and ancient and a little margin of error should be fine, plus it doesn't sound like you are dailying it.
replacing the FPD is fine for the earlier cars as they tend to fail causing a huge gas leak that will lead directly to the turbo at 43psi causing a lot of cars to burn to the ground. If you can upgrade to a s5 primary fuel rail, it does not have the flimsy design and will work fine, no benefit into updating yours if this is already done
where did they relocate the oil cooler to? it was fine where it was...
w/ the 3" exhaust and tune and walbro you should be set anything you want more than that will require some real aftermarket standalone just drive the wheels off it as it seems to have a decent diff and suspension with plenty of power and if you break the gearbox you can swap in a 6 speed from an rx8 and still be within challenge money territory.
finding replacement axles can be a weak point - harder to come by and some new ones are boxed wrong and are NA ones
another weakpoint is your turbo and the twin scroll switching nonsense its just another vacuum leak and the wastegate will be prone to failing and overboosting with the 3" exhaust you have, plenty of options online to get the turbo wastegate ported or upgrade to s5 turbo and manifold (better) and port that wastegate as well.
if your having stalling at lights issues I would check for bad vacuum caps and rotten vacuum lines as the high heat tends to rot these away quicker than normal

BTD Reader
5/16/18 1:41 p.m.

fidelity101 said:
A few things/suggestions/pointers:

for the suspensions/brakes/wheel bearings done and it runs/stops/drives? hell of a deal. those camber plates are 500 for the pair and if all of these parts are in good condition and as rust free as that it is - well worth the buy.

you cant replace the races in the front hubs EASILY, so most people just toss bearings into old races and call it good - its fine. otherwise the whole hub is for sale with bearings from mazda for about 550 a pop... WITH the racer discount

your tires are on the wheels backwards, the big end is supposed to face front, not the tiny end of the teardrop - we call this BWM (backwards wheel mod) in the rotard world

if it was tuned, its probably an rtek 1.7 or 1.8 because of the 72lb secondaries but if its a 2.0 then its tuneable via palm pilot and who knows what was done

not sure what seam welding the subframe is gonna do but autocrossers tend to do weird things anyways but it has some decent but not wild mods done to it so the owner must have had an agenda

ditch the oil metering system and premix it, 1oz for every 1 gal of gasoline and I would run premium just incase because these computers are dumb and ancient and a little margin of error should be fine, plus it doesn't sound like you are dailying it.

replacing the FPD is fine for the earlier cars as they tend to fail causing a huge gas leak that will lead directly to the turbo at 43psi causing a lot of cars to burn to the ground. If you can upgrade to a s5 primary fuel rail, it does not have the flimsy design and will work fine, no benefit into updating yours if this is already done

where did they relocate the oil cooler to? it was fine where it was...

w/ the 3" exhaust and tune and walbro you should be set anything you want more than that will require some real aftermarket standalone just drive the wheels off it as it seems to have a decent diff and suspension with plenty of power and if you break the gearbox you can swap in a 6 speed from an rx8 and still be within challenge money territory.

finding replacement axles can be a weak point - harder to come by and some new ones are boxed wrong and are NA ones

another weakpoint is your turbo and the twin scroll switching nonsense its just another vacuum leak and the wastegate will be prone to failing and overboosting with the 3" exhaust you have, plenty of options online to get the turbo wastegate ported or upgrade to s5 turbo and manifold (better) and port that wastegate as well.

if your having stalling at lights issues I would check for bad vacuum caps and rotten vacuum lines as the high heat tends to rot these away quicker than normal

Good information, thanks. I found out that it's on RTek 2.1, so now I need to either learn how to tune or take it to someone who is willing to work with a palm pilot.

fidelity101 UltraDork
5/16/18 2:32 p.m.

turbo rotaries are sensitive to detonation - i would find someone who is pretty knowledgeable with it and go from there. If it runs fine now just send it!