A continuance of the E46 330i for less than $2k thread. I am assuming it's going to need a new head or this one removed and resurfaced at a machine shop.
So, will it be more of a headache, trying to get special VANOS tools and cylinder head bolts, and should just avoid it? Should I pursue it?
I'm just concerned that with all the parts that I would be buying (head gasket, head bolts, gasket set, VANOS tools), it would cost me the same as buying a running E46.
KTHXBYE!
What's a used M54 motor go for? I'm sure not cheap, but cheap enough to drop it in and still make profit if you decided to sell the car later?
I thought that these were aluminum and basically paperweights if overheated. Im suspect of anyone that describes things as "lightly overheated" or "overheated, but just for a second". My sister described doing this to the '85 Celica GTS, and by "briefly" she meant that she drove down I-84 till the engine basically grendaded.
OK, VANOS tools... http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Vanos-Assembly-Timing-Tools-Engine-5-pc-Kit-/111059184134?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item19dba4aa06&vxp=mtr
I have BMW heads checked and re-furbished for approx. $500 and by the time you get the HG gasket/bolt kit you are into the job to the tune of $800, add the tools and you are at $1020. There will be other incidentals so lets call it a $1200 first timer DIY job.
If the block needs to be decked (alum) - things get ugly real fast. This is when you start shopping for a complete, running low miles replacement at the junkyard. Naturally, an S54 will seem like a keen upgrade and THAT is the part where an LS swap gets to looking pretty cost effective.
Cut to the chase.
In reply to redhookfern:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-M54-M54B30-I-6-3-0L-Engine-Long-Block-E46-330i-E39-E53-E83-Oem-1999-2005-/330766068721?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d0331abf1&vxp=mtr
I'll just leave this here.. Used engine website
In reply to 06HHR:
I think that would appear to be the best option in this case. You never know what else may be wrong with the engine that is in it, and that could turn into a nightmare.
Ugh. Yep, lookin' pricey!
Around here you can get a used engine for around $1,500. I'd just swap them out and be done with it.
So even if you figured a couple hundred for "while I'm in there"s, you'll have $3,500 in an $7k-$10k car.
bravenrace wrote: In reply to redhookfern: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-M54-M54B30-I-6-3-0L-Engine-Long-Block-E46-330i-E39-E53-E83-Oem-1999-2005-/330766068721?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d0331abf1&vxp=mtr
$2400? They must love their engines. :)
In reply to DoctorBlade:
I can get you a 5.3 with all the trimmings for less than half that, all day long.
Terry Fair's thread on Vorshlag (view it in linear mode): http://www.vorshlag.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7320
I think by the end of their experience he was pretty sour on the M54. If you're going to get one with a blown motor, I think I'd go with an LS-based motor as a replacement. In full disclosure, he did rev the original motor well over the stock RPM limit. However, for the power that they make, there's not a lot of bang-for-the-buck there.
I did not read the whole thread but ... If you get a new motor, you can sell the rotating assy. Out of that one for $600 all day long. Keep the pistons, conrods and crank.
That will drop into an M20 block to make a stroker engine. They might not use the pistons/rods, but keep them just in case.
DoctorBlade wrote:bravenrace wrote: In reply to redhookfern: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-M54-M54B30-I-6-3-0L-Engine-Long-Block-E46-330i-E39-E53-E83-Oem-1999-2005-/330766068721?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d0331abf1&vxp=mtr$2400? They must love their engines. :) LSx counteroffer!
That LS will end up costing a whole lot more than the correct engine by the time it's running. Definitely not the economical way to go.
This thread is exactly why I'm looking at an E36 to replace my E46 as an HPDE car...M50s are $500 all day long and the iron block is a lot less sensitive to overheating.
The real problem with the M54 is that, when it overheats, the head bolts can rip the threads out of the aluminum block, such that you can do everything right, only to discover that you can't torque the head bolts. There is apparently a repair kit for this, but even high-speed BMW techs tell me that it only works about 25% of the time.
In reply to 02Pilot:
How exactly does that happen?
From the ad it's unclear what actually happened to the engine, was it run low on oil or was it overheated as a result of coolant loss?
Sounds like you should investigate the engine before making a decision about repair/replacement.
I check m54's for pulled block threads by loosening and re-torquing the head bolts one at a time, if the block threads are damaged you won't be able to achieve torque spec on several or all of the bolts.
The ebay/car part finder prices are always higher then I can find engines locally. I have seen a few sub 2k low mile M54B30 examples, just never pulled the trigger as I just want a backup for my B25 if it ever frags or I get ambitious. I am sure there are some at higher end pick and pulls with the large amount of vehicles those motors came in.
LSx would be tempting though... just so much more work.
Well, I have found two motors here locally for $1,500. Also found a head, with cams/valves, machined, for $400.
http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/pts/3849925862.html
Complete engine for $1100 http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/ptd/3870858591.html
bravenrace wrote: In reply to 02Pilot: How exactly does that happen?
As I understand it, the head warps when the engine overheats, which then pulls some of the head bolts upward, pulling the threads of the block out with them. This suggests to me that the design spec of the threads is not substantial enough, though when it's steel vs. aluminum you have to expect steel to win eventually. BMW just seems to have made it easier than it needed to be.
In reply to 02Pilot:
Perhaps I should start a new thread on this, but what is/are the weaknesses in the cooling system, and is there anything that should be done to prevent this from happening?
Re cooling system: everything plastic seems to need to be replaced.
In reply to Paul_VR6:
Yep, I've heard the plastic thermostat housings are junk and replace them with aluminum ones. Also, the expansion tanks crack pretty easily too
In reply to DukeOfUndersteer:
So replace them when? As soon as you buy the car? Is it a lack of coolant due to failure of these parts that causes the overheating?
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