Can anyone recommend a static, as in non-adjustable brake proportioning valve for our Chumpcar? We have a Wilwood adjustable unit in line, and maxed out it is right on the hairy edge of being perfect... we were hoping to drop a fixed unit upstream to allow for finer adjustments using the adjustable.
Thoughts and or part numbers to look for? It's a single line system to the rear discs...
Thanks!
Dan Team L.O.S.E.R. #42 Frickin' Laser
Have you done away with the stock units ?
In reply to iceracer:
Here's our setup: 1G AWD DSM MC into stock 1G FWD DSM distro block/prop valve, stock lines to front wheels running AWD dual piston front calipers and rotors.
Rear lines from stock block T together to single line to rear with Wilwood prop valve in line, then T our to rear wheels, running stock single piston front calipers and rotors on the rear.
Car weighs zilch at the rear, 65% front weight distribution in a 2200lb car.
define "maxed out" as you used it in the first post.
In reply to AngryCorvair:
Valve adjusted to maximum reduction in rear braking. "Screwed all the way in" in other words.
Why can't you just add another adjustable in series?
In reply to Kenny_McCormic:
It would absolutely work... but in the world of multi driver cars, arrive and drive guys, and a drivers who like to play with settings they shouldn't, I was hoping for something along the KISS principle... If a static can't happen then I will absolutely add a second adjustable and saw off the knob 
Gearhead_42 wrote: In reply to Kenny_McCormic: It would absolutely work... but in the world of multi driver cars, arrive and drive guys, and a drivers who like to play with settings they shouldn't, I was hoping for something along the KISS principle... If a static can't happen then I will absolutely add a second adjustable and saw off the knob
I would mount both of the adjustable units where the driver can't get at it.
simplest solution is going to be to put some crappier pads on the rear, or some better pads on the front.
In reply to AngryCorvair:
or even more simpler than that, why do you have front calipers on the rear of a car that has no rear weight?
In reply to AngryCorvair: Because rebuilt rears were $160 each... rebuilt fronts were $46 ;-)
Running Hawk 9012 all around right now, the cheesy rear pad thing has definitely come up as an option as well.
At our first race we did both the air bubble and the crappy pads and could still lock the rears first. This time out at VIR we were good in everything but a panic stop mode... the big braking zones into Horseshoe and Bitch were very predictable. Only one did I lock the rears coming up on a stackup into the Snake, but that one time was enough to tell me to do something about it before our next outing.
Gearhead_42 wrote: In reply to AngryCorvair: Because rebuilt rears were $160 each... rebuilt fronts were $46 ;-)
do you still have the original rear calipers? rebuilding them shouldn't be very difficult. do they have built-in parking brake function? that's probably what makes them expensive.
In reply to AngryCorvair:
Seized solid when we dragged the car out of the field (literally)
Yeah, integrated parking. What a pain.
In answer to your original question, most vehicles use some type of non-adjustable built in proportioning valve. Many are built into the master cylinder, but many more are not. You just need to find a stock prop valve that will work for your application.
Something like this perhaps http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RSD-PV68/Application/?prefilter=1
Or if you prefer wilwood http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-11322/
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