The car in question is a Ford ‘scort ZX2 S/R.
Sooo, tomorrow is a rallyX here and I’m getting ready and pop the hood and the fluids are fine but . . .
The driver side strut tower bushing looks significantly different than it did prior to the last rallyX and the passenger side looks about the same as it did then. The rubber on both is quite dry (Arizona). I had in mind that I was going to replace them at some point but now it looks ugly. See pics below.
Since the car is pretty stiffly sprung (part of the ZX2 S/R package), possibly too stiff for rallyX, I had a thought of softening it up a bit at some point.
This is my first strut car so I gots me some questions.
First, thoughts on going to the rallyX tomorrow – to me that one looks pretty bad.
Then, thoughts on solutions such as
1. “Better” strut tower bushings – are there better ones?
2. I’ll change the springs at the same time – but how much lighter do I go?
The springs are Eibach’s, I don’t know the rate right now but I will determine that.
Thank you
It does look like it's trying to liberate itself. I'm not gonna pretend to be familiar with Zx2s buuuuuutttt I don't think it would ever break enough to come all the way thru. Here is a pic of a stut bearing for a Fiat 500 so small fwd car. You can see there is a whole lot that would have to give up for it to completely come thru. That being said I wouldn't worry about catastrophic failure but I would replace them asap.
They don't punch through, they fall out the bottom, when they fail.
Those will probably survive a rallycross but I wouldn't buy them any green bananas, if you follow me.
Your input is appreciated.
Currently I'm not in a position to push my luck so I chose to pass on running until I fix it.
Are there better (material / strength etc) strut tower bushings than stock type replacements?
Of course I would prefer to remain in the Stock class so that is a consideration.
My black RX-7 uses NAPA strout mounts for a ZX2.
I am serious when I say they would have been fine. That amount of cracking is pretty normal.
The failure mode is when the rubber starts pulling away from the outer shell, which rusts, which allows it to pull out more, etc. The rubber is not the failure, the rubber to steel interface is.
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
Not doubting your input. I decided before either response was read. Maybe I'll do the rallyX in December.
Re: "black RX-7 uses NAPA strout mounts for a ZX2". A regular ZX2 or the ZX2 S/R? Difference, I've read, is a bigger strut shaft.
In reply to L5wolvesf :
The S/R was nothing special as far as dimensional changes. It was more or less a tape stripes and wheel package car.
What is curious is that 4 door Ford Econobox strut tops are dimensionally identical but cost twice as much.
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
There is a list of engine, brake and suspension differences between the S/R and non. More than steeekers and wheels. When I get back home I'l dig it up.
In reply to L5wolvesf :
And it is all inconsequential stuff, nothing really valuable from a performance standpoint like shifted mounting points or pillow balls where bushings used to reside. It's basically a regular ZX2 with part of a Nopi catalog thrown on at the factory. The Showroom Stock trunk kit applied to a base ZX2 was a much better value IMO.
Point is, for what we are concerned about in 2023, or even 2003 for that matter, it's not really special.
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
Some of the S/R package items:
4 wheel disc brakes (no ABS)
Eibach springs (stiffer than the non-S/R, feels more like what is on my H-Production car) and Tokico struts (different then the std ZX2 struts). In combination with the lower profile tires makes the S/R roughly 1” lower.
A Ford Racing PCM, Roush or Iceman air inlet system, and Borla exhaust. Horsepower increased about 10% over the base ZX2 to 143 bhp.
There are several other non-appearance items but they don’t address power, handling or braking.
