Hey Folks, I have a brake drum on the rear of a beetle that I'm working on that's STUCK STUCK. I built a puller and pushed on the center with the castle nut removed, but that just pushed the drive axle out of the hub so I don't have anything else to push against. Any great ideas on how to get it broken loose? If I can't get it to cooperate I've seen some destructive methods, but was trying to avoid that.
Buzz the snot out of it with a pneumatic impact gun for a while if you can get your hands on one.
In reply to einy (Forum Supporter) :
To be clear the castle nut came off easily, it's the actual drum that's super stuck for me.
My next moves would be a really big hammer, a lot, and then trying the puller again. Maybe heat too.
In reply to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ :
Lol, that was my go-to. I hit it A LOT with my biggest sledged on the face to try to get it to break loose and then with a chistle on the back edge. The dude be stuck.
Should I just evenly heat the entire drum?
Torch and then big hammer then. You're not trying to reuse this drum, are you?
After soaking with a good penetrating solvent:
I would use a lead or brass hammer and tap the outer edge while pulling out on the opposite side. You are attempting to break the rust holding the drum and hub together.
does the drum turn ? if not maybe the brake shoes are stuck to the drum,
the adjusters holes are on the back.
otherwise spray WD40 etc on the spines and let it sit , leave the puller on and tighten so its under pressue.
I'm with californiamilleghia...
If you pushed the axle out the back of the hub, the brake shoes would be the only thing holding it on.
Loosen the shoes.
In reply to Purple Frog (Forum Supporter) :
That's what I'm trying to do! I think everyone misunderstood the issue. The axle is free and moves freely in and out, but that means that I have nothing to push against to break loose the shoes. I'll try to get them backed off more, but everything is just a rusty pile on it right now. I appreciate all the feedback though, I'll keep on trying....
hit the edge the brake shoe with screwdriver /punch
tap the edge of the backing plate to loosen the rust
drill out the back of the pin that holds the brake spring
thats about all there is!
Thanks guys! I'll try some of this. I stepped out for a second between meetings and I have managed to finally get the wheel to rotate, not easily and the drum still won't come off, but it's something.
I just had a thought.... If I remove the axle nut and the axle itself is free, does that mean (on a classic VW) that I can bolt the wheel on and hit/lever it to try and remove the drum? It seems that the wheel just is attached to the drum and the drum is attached via that one big castle nut, is that right?
Drum probably has a lip on the inside from wear. Keep loosening the shoe adjusters.
preach (fs) said:Drum probably has a lip on the inside from wear. Keep loosening the shoe adjusters.
Came here to post this. I had to manually retract the shoes as far as possible then after a few taps it came off. Shoes wore a deep groove into the drum but the rust and brake build up added more mm to the canyon wall height such that even the fully retracted shoes grabbed on the lip.
I personally would be pulling the angle grinder/cutoff wheel out to fubar that up if retracting the shoes and heating up the center didnt get it unstuck.
Olemiss540 said:I personally would be pulling the angle grinder/cutoff wheel out to fubar that up if retracting the shoes and heating up the center didnt get it unstuck.
I go all Hulk on stuck brake drums and SMASH!
I keep reading this as "Stuck Brake on a Dung Beetle"
In reply to ProDarwin :
lolololol
accordionfolder said:Thanks guys! I'll try some of this. I stepped out for a second between meetings and I have managed to finally get the wheel to rotate, not easily and the drum still won't come off, but it's something.
I just had a thought.... If I remove the axle nut and the axle itself is free, does that mean (on a classic VW) that I can bolt the wheel on and hit/lever it to try and remove the drum? It seems that the wheel just is attached to the drum and the drum is attached via that one big castle nut, is that right?
YES, its only held on with that 36mm nut,
keep turning the drum to scape some of the junk off the brake shoe face
If the only thing holding it is the shoes maybe if you unbolt the wheel cylinder and the brake line the whole mess will just come right off, shoes, cylinder, and all.
preach (fs) said:Olemiss540 said:I personally would be pulling the angle grinder/cutoff wheel out to fubar that up if retracting the shoes and heating up the center didnt get it unstuck.
I go all Hulk on stuck brake drums and SMASH!
Wanna smash? Isnt this scenario where the saying "beat the brakes off that bitch" comes from?
californiamilleghia said:accordionfolder said:Thanks guys! I'll try some of this. I stepped out for a second between meetings and I have managed to finally get the wheel to rotate, not easily and the drum still won't come off, but it's something.
I just had a thought.... If I remove the axle nut and the axle itself is free, does that mean (on a classic VW) that I can bolt the wheel on and hit/lever it to try and remove the drum? It seems that the wheel just is attached to the drum and the drum is attached via that one big castle nut, is that right?YES, its only held on with that 36mm nut,
keep turning the drum to scape some of the junk off the brake shoe face
Which is why that big nut has a torque spec of like 350lb/ft or something ridiculous.
Parts are cheap. Fire wrench. Can't be stuck if it's a liquid.
Soak it, heat it, run the puller down as tight as it can go, and leave it there. Every time you think about it, tighten the puller and smack it a few times with a sledge.
I just pulled the drive flange on my boat prop shaft. It took three days. I was chilling on the porch when I heard it pop loose.
This only works if you aren't in a hurry to get it fixed.
You'll need to log in to post.
