Someone posted this on our Classic Motorsports site, and seeing as you guys always like to help I figured I'd cross-post it here: http://classicmotorsports.com/forum/classic-cars/learn-me-stuck-drum-remedies/101147/page1/
Thanks.
Someone posted this on our Classic Motorsports site, and seeing as you guys always like to help I figured I'd cross-post it here: http://classicmotorsports.com/forum/classic-cars/learn-me-stuck-drum-remedies/101147/page1/
Thanks.
Seems like all the usual cures have been suggested. More time and more penetrating oil would be my .02 cants.
Kanter lists reconditioned brake drums for 1954 Packards: https://www.kanter.com/packard/pac-454.html#1
There are some Packard front drums on eBay right now: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/361278957627?lpid=82&chn=ps
Make sure the adjusters are backed off as far as possible, then use heat and a big hammer.
We pulled a 67 bug out of a barn who's roof had collapsed 15 years prior. The wheels neither rotated freely nor would the drums come off. I'm afraid after a month of every trick in the book we had to resort to a cutting torch.
In reply to David S. Wallens: Thanks buddy. It sounds like the resounding answer is heat and whoopins. I probably won't mess with it again until this weekend, but I'll let everybody know how it turns out.
I would make sure you scrub away rust near the studs and center hub to ensure there isn't a little clip or star washer holding you up. I do remember one of my past cars having one of said features to help retain the drum during assembly I assume or maybe it was figured to be a safety feature if the wheel got loose.
Well on these the drum and hub are one piece. The hub needs pulled off the axle shaft, but thats not the real issue. The real issue is that drum is seized to the shoes. The wheel wont even turn. It has lug bolts not studs, so Im thinking maybe i can use one of those holes to push on the shoes, but thats just theoretcal at this point.
Lots of heat. Drums are thick so you have to heat the outside enough to get the inside to a temp the rust will burn off.
You need a proper hub puller:
OTC makes this one, it's what I have and it has never not worked.
Bolt it down, tighten it up, then whack the dogbone around with a hammer to pull the hub and drum complete.
Leave the axle nut on but backed off so that you're not trying to catch a hot hub assembly when it comes loose.
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