We replaced the engine in my dads legacy about 30k miles ago becasue the original engine burned too much oil to pass emissions testing (~320k miles or so). Yesterday the alternator belt came off on the freeway, and he just drove it home because it was only 5 minutes away. After looking at it the crank pulley bolt was only finger tight and the inside of the pulley is pretty chewed up. Is it time to look for another engine? Or would just replacing the pulley maybe be enough to fix it.
When I was reading up on how to replace the t-belt on my now former 2.5 baru, I recall reading quite a few threads about people who had the crank pulley bolt come loose without having major problems. Seems like it could be a crap shoot, but definitely I would try replacing the pulley and key before yanking the engine.
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=104632
Mmmm. Depends on how the tip of the crank looks. If it's chewed up and a new pulley wiggles on the snout, yeah you are best off replacing the engine. If a new pulley will go on without any wobble, then torque the snot out of it (IIRC 320 foot pounds) and keep your fingers crossed. OBTW: it is unpossible to do 320 foot pounds with an air impact, doesn't matter what the tool is rated at. Subaru has a ~3 foot holder and breaker bar combo for doing that job.
I had a similar issue with the crank pulley on my supra a few years back, i just retorqued it and it lasted another 30k before i sold it.
Take a peek in Keith's book for he Miata crank nose repair as a guide first and try to fix the keyway with some JB Weld before you just put the pulley back on.
Oh, and use Loctite on those crank bolts.
I retorqued mine when it happened to me, but mine didn't throw a belt, although the timing belt did jump one tooth, which is what tipped me off that something was wrong. The timing pulley and crank pulley are not completely flat, so there is still a small amount of wobble, but not as much as before.
Of course, I only use the car for local stuff, I'd be a bit more leary of using it for longer trips.
Well, it looks like the answer to my question is yes, time for a new engine. I tried another pulley and it is way looser on the crank than it was on the engine it came off of. At least Subaru engines are easy to swap, finding another 96 2.2 that doesn't have really high mileage may be hard though, the one I got the pulley from is probably ok, but its from out of state so its pretty corroded and has 200k on it.
Where are you?
Vacaville, california. BTW, I think my dad will probably just sell it rather than replacing the engine, if so I will post it here. It would need a pick and pull long block (~$300), new tie rods, new oil pan (pick and pull has to destroy them, and the one that's on it leaks), and I think it has some problem with the oxygen sensor wiring so the check engine light is on. Other than that it doesn't really have anything else wrong with it.
Contact JThw8. If memory serves, he still has a low mile OBDII EJ22 around he'd like to be rid of.
I don't think my dad wants to replace the engine, so it will likely be for sale cheap on here and craigslist soon if someone needs a DD, rallycross beater, lemons car, etc.
Been there fixed that. Loctite has a product for fixing keyways. Bought a 95 Impreza with the 2.2Lover a year ago with a very loose crank pulley. The keyway in the crank was very worn BUT my brother is a Subaru Srvice Manager and he told me they would install a new pulley and keyway with the Loctite and torque the bolt correctly. This I did and has been running great ever since!
Suby place here says it's a common occurrence ... after repositioning mine and running it enough to see that every thing was timed up ok ... they welded it in place.... ( the bolt ) reasoning was if it ever caused a problem in the future I'd need a new crank anyway .... running like a champ
I fixed a 2.2L crank like the rest of you.
Take some time and look it over. It's fixable. My old subie went another 20k and then I sold it.
Crank is WAYYY harder than the pulley. I'd bet you got the wrong pulley, or one that was already worn out.
Fixed one about a month ago...
grab some valve lapping compound coat the crank place pully on run bolt in a few thread but losse so you can pull the pully off the tapper start motor (lower idle as low as possible) hold the pulley moving it on and off the tapper. letting the crank and pulley work with the lapping compound. once it sticks a couple of time pull it off clean up with brake cleaner and then replace crank seal, while the pulley sits on a 500 watt halogen light or in an over at 200 deg when its good and heat soak slap it on and torque the bolt. hope you never need to remove it.
Pulley was from the same year ej22 and fit tight on the engine it came off of, very loose on the engine in the car. The key is loose in the crank too. I will still try to put it back together and see what happens, but i don't think it will work that well with how loose it is.
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