Teach me about diesel swaps.

Mercedes OM606, then build it. Makes 177 hp and 243 ft lbs stock. Those are better numbers than your average 6.2, out of half as many liters.

IIRC, 6.2's had cast crankshafts. Say no to cast cranks in a diesel.

RoughandReady wrote: Mercedes OM606, then build it. Makes 177 hp and 243 ft lbs stock. Those are better numbers than your average 6.2, out of half as many liters. IIRC, 6.2's had cast crankshafts. Say no to cast cranks in a diesel.

I've had cranks fail in a couple 6.2's.

The first truck had a crank fail at a little over 300k miles. That truck was sold engineless since I had a good deal on another truck.

The next truck had the same thing happen at close to 300k.

To avoid that issue on the engine that replaced it (100k on engine pulled from van) I did the bottom end and replaced the crank when the engine got to 275k miles, but reused the damper. That one failed within 50k miles.

I believe the key is checking and possibly replacing the the damper if it is at all questionable.

And yes I am a glutton for punishment, I put a 3rd engine in that truck, and sold it with over 150k miles on that engine.

I think there's some truth to the harmonic damper being the cause of a lot of crank failures on the 6.2 and 6.5. The people on the diesel forums seem to agree. Fluidampr sells a high dollar replacement that supposedly takes care of the issue and is a lifetime part. I've considered ordering one for my Suburban, but I've not been able to convince myself to spend the money yet.

Not to hijack, but the on the topic of 6.2/6.5 cranks and the damper being the cause.

Mine failed when running unloaded at an easy cruise on the highway, leading me to believe it was a vibration issue not a strength issue.

Also they all snapped at or in front of the first rod journal.

By all means hijack. The more information that's out there the better. I now know about those issues and even though I may never act on this impulse someone may be researching this in the future and happen across this thread and find the information. It's all a good thing.

My problem with diesel swaps is they make financial sense only under specific circumstances. And they always seem to "sound" easy to do until the builder runs out of money and/or fabrication talent... As mentioned in NOHOME's 1800 project thread, fitting the engine into a car is one thing, getting said engine along with everything else to work in a car you're comfortable driving across the country and back is quite another.

You're not the first to have this idea (note how long Curtis has been planning a similar swap with his car?). IMHO, I'd get some cash ready and start trolling CL and Ebay for somebody's failed or incomplete attempt (usually because they ran out of money). Wave cash in their face and let them take the budget hit.

Agreed, Ian. My problem is caviar tastes on a ramen-noodle budget. Diesel engines are just not cheap.

A good source, however, is government auction websites. You can often find new-in-crate military surplus 6.2/6.5L engines for cheap. I lost a silent auction on one of those at a Boeing sale. I bid $500. I found out later that the winner bid $520. You can often find them for $1000 complete.

In reply to curtis73:

I've seen good running takeouts for even less than that, rednecks don't like them due to having next to no performance potential.

The re manufactured 6.5td's are actually pretty good. The problems are easily dealt with now and you can get a pretty comfortable 250 to 275 hp just with some bolt ons. Get one that has been built properly and go to Heath diesel for the ad ons. It would move a car nicely.

What RoughandReady says:

RoughandReady wrote: IIRC, 6.2's had cast crankshafts. Say no to cast cranks in a diesel.

What Knurled reads:

RoughandReady wrote: (something something) Say no to (something) diesel.