The One Lap CRX is back

How much life do you get out of the wheel bearings? I'm a little surprised to see that you're still running the EF knuckle over the DA part. 

Well that's better.  Wheel bearing is bad but we'd replace that anyway.  Good news is lower ball joint is still good.  We'll repack/reboot it, but not replace.  The latter is a real PITA on these cars requiring special tools and a lot of luck. We have the tools, but luck is not always on our side. 
 

KevinLG said:

How much life do you get out of the wheel bearings? I'm a little surprised to see that you're still running the EF knuckle over the DA part. 

Hey Kevin,

What I have found kills the bearings is the axle nut loosening, which it does even if staked.  Just needs a little movement to lower the torque enough for the thing to self-destruct under track stress.  Part of my "every session checklist" is to tighten the axle nut.  Left side especially.  I don't even stake then anymore, though I will likely do so for One Lap because of the long transits.  4" breaker bar with the correct socket and my 140 lbs on it gives appropriate torque. :)

The other thing is to use the highest quality bearings.  I'm a fan of BCA/NTN, but other OEM suppliers can be trusted.  I no longer trust Timken, as they seem to just pick a supplier willy-nilly...like a Forrest Gump box of chocolates.

Stay tuned for some wheel bearing/hub changeover goodness w/o a press....or a hammer.

As for the DA parts, I may go that route soon...but supply of those has really dried up.  So prices are nuts.

On to the rear brakes. Whenever you see that much dust build-up caked on the wheel cylinder, it means it's leaking.  Time to replace 'em.  
 

We'll do the shoes while in there, too.  These are at about half thickness and have been on there for about six years.  
 

There, that looks better.

Shoes are Porterfield R4S street compound. 

Cylinders are Centric brand (If you're going to buy Chinese, at least get the best quality Chinese).

Did some more street tuning last night while also bedding in the brakes.  Got that perfect blue-grey cast on these Wilwood Spec 37 rotors. 
 

Fresh Hawk DTC-80 pads installed.  
 

Btw, if you don't own one of these, you must hate yourself.  Best $50 ever spent.  Works on all my cars. Lisle brand.

No longer a trailer queen...drove to the track today.  Obligatory fuel stop photo. 
 

And we made it!

Back home safely with no drama.  Got one dry session in and one damp. 

I must say the car is "interesting" to drive on track w/o a rear wing.  Don't think I'll be doing that again any time soon.

Loving this thread.

Andy what's your opinion on Caster with these cars? I went 17s on my DC2 and have +2 from my lower control arm, my wheel is all over the front bumper  Got the shock length dialed to clear under full bump(recent Miata article helped with that), but still pretty damn close. Not sure the added caster is worth the tight clearances up front.

Also any insight on sphericals vs hard rubber in these older Honda chassis?

Blackhalo said:

Loving this thread.

Andy what's your opinion on Caster with these cars? I went 17s on my DC2 and have +2 from my lower control arm, my wheel is all over the front bumper  Got the shock length dialed to clear under full bump(recent Miata article helped with that), but still pretty damn close. Not sure the added caster is worth the tight clearances up front.

Also any insight on sphericals vs hard rubber in these older Honda chassis?

I honestly have not played with caster at all on these cars.  Whatever I get when it's lowered is what I get.  Something like 5 degrees, I believe.

I have Kingpin sphericals everywhere, plus PCI for the big RTA center bushings.  Harsh over expansion joints, and a bit noisy (PCI rattles) but keeps everything working as it should.  No stiction at all in the suspension.

Andy Hollis said:

Blackhalo said:

Loving this thread.

Andy what's your opinion on Caster with these cars? I went 17s on my DC2 and have +2 from my lower control arm, my wheel is all over the front bumper  Got the shock length dialed to clear under full bump(recent Miata article helped with that), but still pretty damn close. Not sure the added caster is worth the tight clearances up front.

Also any insight on sphericals vs hard rubber in these older Honda chassis?

I honestly have not played with caster at all on these cars.  Whatever I get when it's lowered is what I get.  Something like 5 degrees, I believe.

I have Kingpin sphericals everywhere, plus PCI for the big RTA center bushings.  Harsh over expansion joints, and a bit noisy (PCI rattles) but keeps everything working as it should.  No stiction at all in the suspension.

Thanks man.

Kingpin seems the way to go. Not cheap, be a slow upgrade.

I'll probably ditch my PCI front spherical lowers, and put the Hardrace ones I have back in, until I can afford some Kingpin lowers. The PCIs were fine on the 15s, but too close for comfort on the 17s.

We used king pin on our EG endurance car,very nice stuff.

 2 seasons with us and another 2 with new owners and still tight as a drum.

kevlarcorolla said:

We used king pin on our EG endurance car,very nice stuff.

 2 seasons with us and another 2 with new owners and still tight as a drum.

PCI stuff I have has been solid, maybe a little noise but no noticeable play in any of the bearings. And I don't notice the noise on track.

Have local guys running Hardrace sphericals, and they actually seem to be holding up OK. 

My Kingpin parts have been in the car for 13 years of track abuse...still zero play.  Buy once, cry once.

The big PCI RTA bushing has been rebuilt twice and needs it again.  
 

Tada!  Spare upright all built up, with no press or hammers.  What is this sorcery?

I used to borrow one of these from a local shop all the time but recently found one on eBay.  Used it at least a dozen times since.  Will even work while part is on the car, though you still have to pop the LBJ to get the axle out.  Separate operations to pull hub, remove bearing, install bearing, install hub.  Don't forget the circlip!
 

While doing the rear brakes, we noticed some play in the RR wheel bearing.  Not a huge surprise with all the rear camber we run (4 degrees).  So we decided to swap out both and keep the one good one around as a spare.

For these, we use Timken brand hubs which have NTN bearings in this application.  But first we have to swap out studs to match our spacer.
 

 The spacer was needed to dial in the exact offset to keep the tire away from both the upper coilover plate and the rolled fender lip.  This all came about when trying to squeeze 225/50-15's on the rear to match the fronts we tested. 

We use rear studs from a 86-89 Integra or 96-97 TL.  They are 10mm longer than stock CRX. 
 

Fresh hubs with longer studs on left and normal on right.  Dorman sells the studs in a box of ten.

Again, no press.  Just the typical HF ball joint service tool in a vice and a couple of sockets. 
 

So fresh

The extended studs fill the open ended lug nuts nicely.