Thinking about buying a 300k mile Volvo 240D

Coldsnap wrote: Although OD confused me. On the dash the arrow that comes up when I press OD button means that OD is now off? So when driving around town I should not have that arrow on my dash.

Correct.

Cool. Weekend project is to figure out why this ipd exhaust system so loud and maybe scope some used seats in good condition

I miss my Volvo seats, they're really the best. People say that 850 seats are better, but my time in one was too brief to make a judgement.

Coldsnap wrote: Cool. Weekend project is to figure out why this ipd exhaust system so loud and maybe scope some used seats in good condition

I wish you luck on the seat endeavor. It requires some work to swap/upgrade them. No direct bolt in upgrades.

clutchsmoke wrote:

Coldsnap wrote: Cool. Weekend project is to figure out why this ipd exhaust system so loud and maybe scope some used seats in good condition

I wish you luck on the seat endeavor. It requires some work to swap/upgrade them. No direct bolt in upgrades.

Oh darn really? Haynes manual says unbolt rail screws and pull up. Was going to source from another 240.

In reply to Coldsnap:

Well that will be painless! Sorry I wasn't clear I was speaking of swapping your 240 seats out and upgrading to 850 seats.

I guess the hard part is finding good condition seats but I feel like Raleigh and va are the Valhalla for volvos.

Do 850 seats go into 740s any easier?

I got honked at yesterday for going too slow.

And i thought it broke down but actually ran out of gas. Turns out 1/4 in take = emtpty.

Well, I want to say there's a secondary pump in the tank that often goes out. You could audibly hear the main fuel pump on my 240 when it got below a ¼ of a tank. I could push it, but I didn't want to strain the pump.

Needs turbo, and new hose from intank to fuel pump hat, maybe 740 turbo intank to replace the 300k mile intank

Turbocharging a B230F is a bit of work. It'd probably be easier to just swap in a B230FT.

In reply to Esoteric Nixon:

Negative, i swapped a turbo on in 2hrs including trimming a different icu harness and installing that too. Not to mention the na motors have higher compression (still perfectly fine for boost its the rods that go first and they are the same in both) for more off boost power and much less likely to have the piston slap all b230ft's have.

It's been awhile since I frequented a place such as turbobricks, but I recall it being a bit of work to swap out cams and plumb the oil lines and whatnot. Two hours isn't bad, but still, adding a turbo to an engine with nearly 300k sounds a bit mad, even if it is a Volvo. I dyno'd mine at... 27xk and I think it was putting 93 hp to the rear wheels. Not bad, but I don't think I'd add the +T.

In reply to Esoteric Nixon:

Dont have to change cams, drill one hole in the pan, jb weld a garden hose barb in, remove plug at the front of the head to feed the turbo with npt-an hose then bolt in intercooler and piping.The hardest part was drilling the oil drain and it was as hard as you imagine drilling a hole in sheet metal is then flushing with a gallon of mineral spirits. I +t'd a 250k motor with an 850r turbo thats about to get replaced with a bigger t3/t4, makes 200whp and 250ft lbs and no worrys. Heck its quieter than my old b230ft thats now on an engine stand with the same miles. Oh and the +t motor has better power than the factory turbo motor i have, same turbo and everything. Basically its stupid simple to turbo one, heck even on the turbo volvo board they always recommend turboing the factory na motor instead of swapping in a turboed motor due to simplicity. That is as long as your factory motor has good compression and all that good stuff.

I have an NA motor too. If and when I upgrade, I'd add a turbo to the NA motor rather than swap - everything I've seen says it should be quite a bit simpler. Just involves the plumbing, swapping ecus, and everything else just bolts up.

Speaking if compression. Is it worth paying for a compression test? To see if the motor is a ; on its last leg enjoy it and scrap the car OR engine is healthy enough to throw time / money into the car

Unless your keeping it a while, planning on turboing it, or have issues i wouldnt bother. Also Harbor freight has them for $20-$30 thats without leakdown tester but still cheaper than having a shop check it id bet

Here's a turbo kit with everything except the oil return line for $600. It's on Turbobricks so you have to login there.

600 trouble free miles so far(I don't drive much..). Glad I got this car, really like it.