This BMW ad is EXACTLY why I can’t make decisions on my own.

https://nh.craigslist.org/cto/d/1999-bmw-323i-conv-for-sale/6356379451.html

because if I was in control, I’d drive up and there a take this thing home. 

Can I get a few “here’s what I would do” from you smarter guys? 

LS1 + nitrous + sawzall = deathkart

plenty of time for 2018 challenge!

Just glad that is not near me. ...   Oh wait.....

Dang that's clean for a rust belt car!

See? In a short time it’ll be time for me to take some cash and buy a car so I can give my Yukon to my son... 

Am I supposed to just go alone with cash and buy a car like this? Just the very idea of that is pure madness.

Anybody have advice for me when the time comes? I can’t be trusted to make sensible decisions 

The cooling system is the weak point on these. Check VERY CAREFULLY for evidence of overheating and leakage from any of the plastic cooling system components. Evidence of recently replaced bits may be good or bad, depending on why they were replaced. Other than that, it's typical BMW: be prepared to do the suspension if you want it to handle the way the Bavarian gnomes intended, change some fluids, and go drive.

wow, a real stripper model there. "Small" engine, no fogs, 15" rims.

mad_machine said:

wow, a real stripper model there. "Small" engine, no fogs, 15" rims.

Sure is a (possibly?) cheap way into what could turn out to be a fun daily driver no?

(this is coming from someone who drove Samurais with no top or doors, carpet or much else even while I had to scrape ice off my plastic racing seats)

This one is tempting me.  If I read it right, this classes into H-Street which might be a lot of fun.

https://bgky.craigslist.org/cto/d/1996-bmw-318i-very-nice/6352886411.html

In reply to KyAllroad :

So my question would be: is this something you’d be ok with on a daily basis? 

(I’d do most of whatever repairs that come up short of head work level stuff but can’t afford to have it down and miss work)

The thing with making (semi-)modern BMWs reliable daily drivers is to address the problem areas before they become problems. Buying an older one without maintenance records means you have to make some guesses and plan to do a bunch of preventative work - which can amount to a significant sum, even doing your own labor - but the reward is a car that drives well and should be very reliable. Some may balk at ripping out a functioning cooling system and replacing it, but do it once and then you can stop worrying about it for 100k miles.

In reply to 02Pilot :

I’ve watched my share of E36 and E39 buyers guide videos. I suppose part of my question lies in New England winters: I’ve been through them in a manual 2wd Ranger. I’d just like some real-life advice

In reply to ebonyandivory :  Yes, but I try to always have one more vehicle than driver so if something goes down I can just grab another key and deal with it after work. (sad because I'm a fed with limitless time off but I have a strong "get-to-work-no-matter-what" drive.)

ebonyandivory said:

In reply to 02Pilot :

I’ve watched my share of E36 and E39 buyers guide videos. I suppose part of my question lies in New England winters: I’ve been through them in a manual 2wd Ranger. I’d just like some real-life advice

I drove my E39 (525i, 5MT) through ten NY winters and up to 200k miles. Buy a second set of wheels and throw some snows on it - it's fun.

I'd run away at "the top doesn't work"

BlueInGreen44 said:

I'd run away at "the top doesn't work"

Me too, having previously owned an E36 with a finicky power top. They're a royal pain.

Unless, of course, you can find a hardtop for it. Then you've got something.

I actually had a dream no long ago where I had one of this, Oxford green. Been wanting a convertible of some kind since then. Doesn’t help that my brother bought an ND...

There are literally no verts here in Mexico, only completely thrashed E36s :/

"don't call and say alton bay is to far away its a good car cheap"

I think he's on to us.