I design and make things for a branch of The National Institutes of Health, centered around the creation of novel analytical/laboratory instruments and lab automation. I was in renewable energy, specifically large scale commercial photovoltaic mounting structures before, and I have a machine/fab shop where I do this work as well as making everything for my race program.
Making stuff is just making stuff. Making parts for old cars is just making stuff, same as making a prototype instrument for a scientist or a production run of widgets. The manufacturing process is driven by the scale of manufacture. Example: I designed a mounting system for solar electric modules on commercial roof tops. The final evolution was always to be made on a dedicated roll forming line with inline punching. But that required a commitment of about $100k and a long-term relationship with a roll forming house. So at first the parts were laser cut, folded on a CNC brake and kitted, all at a sheet metal contract manufacturer. The cost was close to triple what would be ideal. Eventually quantities rose and number of versions dropped to a point where punching was viable rather than laser and cost dropped by close to half. The roll form line happened after the company was acquired by a lager company with a better background in manufacturing, who said "We're selling $12,000,000 of this product, and can drop the cost by 33% with a capital expenditure of $100K? Sign us up!"
So, repro car parts tread a narrow line of need vs. cost. Nearly everything for my '62 Sprite is available. Some is still UK made, a lot is Asian. The UK stuff is more expensive and nearly invariably fits better. You can build an entire mid-60s Mustang or Camaro from reproduction parts. But less common cars aren't supported and it comes down to the desire of a passionate owner and what they're willing to pay.
The basic modern tools of prototyping, coordinate measuring machines, 3D CAD, CNC machining and 3D printing are all applicable here as are the methods used when the vehicle was made; hand carving patterns, short-run sand casting, manual machining and manual metal fabrication through hammer forming, finishing, plating and paint.
Specifically regarding 3D printing, when a casual user states "It's very accurate and I get good parts" it's a useless assertion. A part for print begins as a 3D CAD model so by definition the accuracy and repeatability of the printed parts can be quantified and verified. We have several consumer grade printers at the lab for interns and casual users to make simple parts without tight tolerances or structural requirements. But when 3D printing is appropriate for something I'm doing I generally have it printed by Fineline so I can choose resolution, resin and any post-print finishing. My basic criteria is the printed part has to at least meet the tolerances of the machined parts they're fastened to / interfacing with. In other words, if my machined metal and plastic parts and purchased components are plus or minus a couple thousandths of an inch - that's what the printed parts need to be.
let's say you have a very nice Trabant or Moskvitch and it needs a dash. What's it worth to you? If you have it scanned w/ a CMM you could have it thermoformed from sheet including surface texture for couple grand. Each additional part, however woould be a couple hundred bucks. Buy a hundred and they get much cheaper.
How many Trabant or Moskvitch dashes can you sell? Do you feel lucky, punk?
So maybe you find a perfect dash, wax the hell out it, mold release it and pull a composite mold off it. Then you can make replicals in Fiberglass, or bag them in carbon. Maybe a couple hundred bucks and many, many hours.
The electronics I can't speak to - all my cars either have none or it's 90s/early00s German that all still works, mostly.