tuna55 wrote:
To another one of your points, I have been actively avoiding use of my 12 point sockets. I may end up hiding them somewhere for a time to see if I miss them. They are, however, really good at rounding off marginal heads.
That's kind of my thought. Back in the day when you needed a large arc to get your ratchet to click they made sense, but now ratchets need about three degrees before they click so I don't quite know why I have them. I also never use them unless I can't find the 6pt version.
Kylini wrote:
The true minimalist doesn't have a wrench set, just adjustables.
When I started wrenching in my early teens my most valuable tool was a set of hand me down vice grips. I loosened and tightened an embarrassing amount of stuff with them. Most of which were never able to fit a properly sized wrench again.
Kylini wrote:
The true minimalist doesn't have a wrench set, just adjustables.
My thought was always if you see someone headed out to an airplane with a Crescent wrench, the only thing that should be done with it is to take it from them and beat them with it.
In my years of wrenching I have always found a situation that would be easier with a different tool. That one bolt that has you doing the open end wrench flip every stroke that is a snap with a ratcheting wrench or that screw that is simple with a 12" screwdriver and impossible with a 8" or that spot where a normal ratchet gets 2 clicks but a flex head allows 20 clicks! I just hate the feeling I get when I cannot do a job well because I don't have the correct tool. Sometimes you just must have that 10mm crow foot flare tool or the job doesn't get done.
Bruce
Vigo
PowerDork
1/8/16 9:03 a.m.
One thing I do when buying the very expensive tools that also helps with space/clutter is not owning both a metric and standard of the same tool when their sizes are nearly the same. For example, if i'm buying an 8-19mm set of 3/8dr pinless impact wobble sockets that work out to $30-40/pc, do i really need to buy a whole set of standards as well? Nope. I'd need a 3/8", a 1/2", and that's about it. I've done that with my expensive sockets and ratcheting wrenches for a long time and it's worked out well.
I think most people own mostly cheap and crappy pliers and could probably replace a large amount of junk with a small amount of quality stuff. Knipex Cobra channel locks are an excellent example that was brought up. Channel lock 'nut buster' (also known somewhat commonly as parrot nose pliers) are pretty neat. If you own vice grips without v-shaped cutouts in the jaws, chunk them. If you mostly plan to grip nuts and bolts, you'd actually be better off with vice grips like the 4LW and 7LW.
As far as 12pt sockets, most of the ones i own came out of a big Craftsman set i got as a teenager that i still have most of. However, for the big 1/2" drive sockets i've bought a lot of 12pt, because in those bigger socket sizes you're really unlikely to damage the fasteners and the one time you need a 12pt and don't have it (breaker bar action, weird 12pt headbolts etc) you'll be annoyed. Working out fine for me.
I do think breaker bars are mostly crap for breaking things loose but i still keep them around for times when i need to work something back and forth like stuck fasteners or lining up cam and crank timing marks, etc.
In reply to Vigo:
Do you have a list of equivalencies? I know I could look it up, but since we're talking about it in this thread......
It would really help in setting up a track box. I can always stencil or use the label maker to mark them.
That's also a good point about the big 12 pt sockets.
Ian F
MegaDork
1/8/16 10:05 a.m.
From what I've seen, other than impact sockets, really big sockets (3/4" drive) only come in 12 pt versions.
For interior work, I've found a plastic pry tool set extremely useful. A set of picks for o-rings has also been insanely helpful.
Everything I have fits in my 26" tool box and top chest. I have a few drawers empty too, so I can definitely expand. Looking to find a good deal on channel locks, pliers and cutters but that can wait since I have a set I keep in the basement.
Add a rubber mallet and deadblow hammer to the list.
I'd put a low profile headlamp on the list.
mazdeuce wrote:
In reply to Vigo:
Do you have a list of equivalencies? I know I could look it up, but since we're talking about it in this thread......
It would really help in setting up a track box. I can always stencil or use the label maker to mark them.
That's also a good point about the big 12 pt sockets.
7/16"=11 or 12mm
1/2" can be covered by 13mm in a pinch.
9/16" I can get with a 14mm.
5/8"=16mm.
3/4"=19mm.
My cordless electric impact is a lifesaver. No way would I want to get rid of it. So much easier to deal with suspension/brake/wheel bolts etc with it. Holds a charge forever and works great.
Brett_Murphy wrote:
Add a rubber mallet and deadblow hammer to the list.
I'd put a low profile headlamp on the list.
This!
My rubber deadblow is my impact gun, not much I cant get lose with it and a box wrench if i can swing at it.
And I love my headlamp for working on cars, light is always where you look.
These are cheap and awesome, I have a few. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P8EMEGG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
I have an assortment of random sockets etc I have colleted over the years, some good, some cheap, but most of them are there. I have had to buy weird axle sockets, a 54mm?! really?
TL,DR after the first couple posts
Dont recall seeing clamps (C, Bar, etc)...very handy stuff
I can't live without my multimeter. It's an older digital unit but works great and is a life saver with electrical issues.
RedGT
Reader
1/8/16 3:08 p.m.
Regarding 12pt sockets, I have seen flywheel bolts, valve cover bolts and aftermarket header bolts have 12pt heads. I get the concept of 'pruning' down the set of tools but IMO a "garage' set is when you want to have something for any job you will tackle. No 12pts on hand at all seems silly.
Multimeter I have. I'm not pitching the 12 points, at least not yet, but as someone mentioned, all of the big stuff is 12 point already. Lots of tools will go in the 'I don't use this' bin and we'll see if they come back out. Some of them will also go into the track box that I've been meaning to organize for the last couple of years but haven't.
Keep things coming, I'm appreciating the input.
I work on Opels and VWs, so a set of triple-square bits would have to be in with the torx and Allen stuff.
I agree on the 12 point sockets, no reason to lug them around.
I didn't look really close at your list, but whenever I am getting someone set up with their first real automotive tool set I always have the hardest time getting the following to round out some decent premade set:
Socket extensions, with knurling on them to use as nut drivers. Also a set with wobble tips.
Impact driver socket adapters and swivels. The impact ball in socket is so much better than the u-joint swivel.
Impact screw driver set. Everyone needs one of these, put in the right bit, whack the end with a hammer, screw comes out.
Ball peen, dead blow, steel faced hammer. Ball peen is obviously not for use on wood projects, dead blow and steel surfaces means it will actually work like a hammer.
Multimeter.
Vigo
PowerDork
1/8/16 4:20 p.m.
7mm - 9/32
8mm - 5/16
11mm - 7/16
14mm - 9/16 (9/16 slightly larger and some but not all 14mm will fit on 9/16 fasteners)
16mm - 5/8
17mm - 11/16 (not as close as the others but when you get up to bigger sizes the accuracy is less critical)
19mm - 3/4
This continues in both the larger and smaller directions but this range covers the most common fasteners on cars. I dont recommend using a 12mm on a 7/16, or a 13mm on 1/2.
Ian F
MegaDork
1/8/16 4:27 p.m.
Sometimes you end up with 12 pt whether you want them or not. The sockets seem to use less metal, which may be why many cheap sets are 12 pt.
If you have duplicates of things, perhaps split them into your "track set". When you are packing tools for your track set, you will invariably forget something if you're always pulling from your main set. This is why I want to have dedicated tools stored in each car. Hopefully in tool rolls.
tuna55 wrote:
I have never owned an impact gun. Read my build thread and decide if you really need one. I've pulled off majorly stuck and big bolts without one.
Didn't you split your lip with a breaker bar?
Vice grips, real vintage ones with the wire cutters.
Allen wrenches from Gear Wrench, and maybe a set of T-Handles ones. I HATE the cheap L shaped ones.
I have this lug nut socket set and I use it SO MUCH, and not just changing tires, swapping out struts and a ton of other stuff.
As was mentioned, 12 point sockets are for 12 point bolts, nothing else. Well, that and the ones that are the right size for driving square taps when you don't have a proper tap handle that fits.
The rest is driven by what specialty tools you need. Thinking about the stuff that's in my toolbox: tap and die set? Rod bolt stretch gauge? Vernier calipers or micrometer? Compression or leakdown tester? Decent wire strippers and proper ratcheting crimp tools? Safety wire pliers, brake piston retractors, MityVac, or ball joint tool?
If you're trying to strip down, rather than build up, then you need to approach it that way. Inventory what you have, go down the list, and justify each tool.
All the 1/2 in drive stuff in impact grade even if you don't have an impact.
I never much liked impact guns myself, impacts are for when you're in a hurry. I don't work on things in a hurry that can kill me or other people if I do something wrong.
92dxman
SuperDork
1/14/16 3:40 p.m.
Knipex Plier Wrench:
http://knipex-tools.com/index.php?id=1023&page=group_detail&parentID=1368&groupID=1500