Whatever it is will also need a cage
I'm liking S-10 here. Drag suspension has long been figured out. Fiberglass body parts as the budget allow. Tubing the back half couldn't be easier.
Any lightweight rwd car, v8+at of choice, drag radials and spray the house down is the cheapest option for 10's. I've seen 5.0/c4 and lsx/4l60 combos do that in a variety of applications.
tuna55 wrote:Flight Service wrote: SN95 stang, swap 4.6 for 5.4 out of navigator, add turbo, smile (I wish this was my original idea, but it was on Passtime with wicked results)Same question as the Gen III, how much boost can the stock bottom end take? Good combo, otherwise. Back half, or keep the stock stuff?
Use 5.4 trans for durability. Plenty of stuff for the suspension out back. All that is well sorted.
The turbo would be interesting.
Just need to keep the spark plugs together.
yamaha wrote: Any lightweight rwd car, v8+at of choice, drag radials and spray the house down is the cheapest option for 10's. I've seen 5.0/c4 and lsx/4l60 combos do that in a variety of applications.
So, if I asked you how to make bread, you'd say "Take some flour, some water, some sugar, some yeast, and then cook it for a while"
captdownshift wrote: I have a caged AWD Turbo 6 bolt DSM for sale pretty cheap
well, whats the price and best 1/4 time? could solve this bench racing thing pretty quick.
HiTempguy wrote: Am I the only one who is going to call BS on the Amx times? Okee dokee, I call BS If a car is light enough, buy lq4, bolt ly6 heads to it, massive cam, run 11's. You just made over 500hp for under $3k, less if you scavengem
I'm not. Years ago I saw a small slick AMX run 10.20's, I think (10.50's at most), and I thought the guy was running something wicked. 6-months after that, the guy comes in to where I work (talked about cars, what do you own, an AMX? saw one at the drag strip, that's yours!?), and he was running an AMC motor!
The thing was dialed in three ways from Sunday. I'd bet my life he was running 10.20's, because I couldn't believe how quick that thing was. Stock bodied, small tired AMX running that when all these pin-heads with tubs and fat Mickey's were in the 11s. Mid-high 9's might be tough, but a few more cubes from a chebbie motor and I think 9.90s could be there.
Sure, except stock compression and bottom end, stock heads, super street able, over drive, locking torque converter. You 'only' want consistent 10's on a budget in a light car -I'm just saying why bother with boost for that particular goal. I wouldn't even backhalf it.
My own poison might be different: neon, 2.4, srt bottom end, ported head and intake, big turbo, e85, megasquirt, slicks, weight redux. Just because not many see that coming. Or turbo e36: 500whp on stock bottom end 328, e85. Then spend time on getting it to hook.
tuna55 wrote:Nathan JansenvanDoorn wrote: ^this. Cam, tune traction gears and the right stall and weight would get you a consistent, reliable 10 sec car.So, the same stuff he did? Except he used a big block and a holley. So, am I to understand that in two decades the price point per performance hasn't changed much?
3rd gen Camaro + http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/hrdp-1104-594hp-53l-gen-iii-small-block-for-3252/ + a TH350 build to deal with the power. I don't know what that should budget out to. $3250 for the car + $3k for the rear suspension & axle + $2500 for a car + $2500 for a trans/converter. Probably some other stuff like a good cage and wheels/tires, etc, bring it up to $10,000 total?
pres589 wrote: 3rd gen Camaro + http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/hrdp-1104-594hp-53l-gen-iii-small-block-for-3252/ + a TH350 build to deal with the power. I don't know what that should budget out to. $3250 for the car + $3k for the rear suspension & axle + $2500 for a car + $2500 for a trans/converter. Probably some other stuff like a good cage and wheels/tires, etc, bring it up to $10,000 total?
I love me some third gen Camaro, but it's really a lousy platform. The rear suspension would definitely have to go, so it's a mandatory back half, and the floor pan is not conducive to running decent exhaust and such. Plus, you doubled the budget and you don't even have a trailer or a truck.
Nathan JansenvanDoorn wrote: Sure, except stock compression and bottom end, stock heads, super street able, over drive, locking torque converter. You 'only' want consistent 10's on a budget in a light car -I'm just saying why bother with boost for that particular goal. I wouldn't even backhalf it. My own poison might be different: neon, 2.4, srt bottom end, ported head and intake, big turbo, e85, megasquirt, slicks, weight redux. Just because not many see that coming. Or turbo e36: 500whp on stock bottom end 328, e85. Then spend time on getting it to hook.tuna55 wrote:Nathan JansenvanDoorn wrote: ^this. Cam, tune traction gears and the right stall and weight would get you a consistent, reliable 10 sec car.So, the same stuff he did? Except he used a big block and a holley. So, am I to understand that in two decades the price point per performance hasn't changed much?
The big block 427 had stock castings as well.
At that ET, I would definitely want to back half it just for consistency, although for sure that compromises streetability.
In reply to tuna55:
I thought the torque arm setup could be a decent platform to play with. Not stock but not some "back half required" path either. I missed the budget.
You want a car in the 9's, safely. And a truck. And a trailer. For $5k? Right.
I'm going to piggyback onto this thread because it has me thinking.
If that's ok.
Full size modern truck, built to run 12.0 in brackets, can you do that without having to do zany rear suspension stuff? The power part is fairly trivial, transmission the same, but I wonder if you could get it to run and hook consistently on leaves?
3rd Gen Supra, BIG turbo, or buy a shell and install big V8 of choice. Gut everything, suspension and rear might hold up...
I don't know anything about drag racing.
mazdeuce wrote: I'm going to piggyback onto this thread because it has me thinking. If that's ok. Full size modern truck, built to run 12.0 in brackets, can you do that without having to do zany rear suspension stuff? The power part is fairly trivial, transmission the same, but I wonder if you could get it to run and hook consistently on leaves?
Ma Mopar did a lot with leaves in Super Stock back in the day. It can be done. There are lots of tricks. Look up any of the classic Mopar stuff and you'll get an idea. With today's tires, you definitely should not need a back half for twelves. Heck, I ran twelves with a third gen Camaro without a ton of rear suspension work.
ebonyandivory wrote: Ford Maverick, stock 4.9-300 I6 Ford with dump-truck turbo. Do I need to post the link?
I like that idea very much. I know that link and think it would be a sweet way to do this.
pres589 wrote: In reply to tuna55: I thought the torque arm setup could be a decent platform to play with. Not stock but not some "back half required" path either. I missed the budget. You want a car in the 9's, safely. And a truck. And a trailer. For $5k? Right.
You'd need a new panhard rod, the stocker is wimpy. The biggest issue is that the torque arm is acting on the wrong spot in the chassis, and it has this weird trailing arm/torque arm setup. It can be made to work, but to really plant the tires and pull the wheels you'll want to move the IC a lot, and essentially you'd have to turn it into a ladder bar to do that.
In reply to tuna55:
Thanks, I did my first three drag passes ever on One Lap, and I've got to say, it was fun. A lot of fun. My truck is the only thing I own with an auto, so now I keep thinking it might be fun to slowly build toward a 12.0 bracket class while getting experience on the tree. There is no shortage of strips down here.
mazdeuce wrote: In reply to tuna55: Thanks, I did my first three drag passes ever on One Lap, and I've got to say, it was fun. A lot of fun. My truck is the only thing I own with an auto, so now I keep thinking it might be fun to slowly build toward a 12.0 bracket class while getting experience on the tree. There is no shortage of strips down here.
Nothing wrong with drag racing a stick shift, you just need to be good. Ronnie Sox did OK. I saw a sweet first generation Mustang at my local track growing up. I think he was generally in the mid nines. He pulled the wheels on every gear change. It was very spectacular.
Anyway, as I offered up on the one lap thread, I am available to help with bracket racing stuff. There is a lot of knowledge that is hard to get. If you get really interested, I can hook you up with TunaDad whi still does Super Stock today. Well, last weekend. It's a complicated game.
If you want, E-mail me and we can discuss more, but the Mopar guys had it figured out with leaves way back in the 60's.
NGTD wrote: Why turbo - why not look at an Eaton Supercharger? No issues with lag.
Limited power as compared with a turbo. I like superchargers, I really do, but if you look at Pro Mod cars (where they can run turbo, super or nitrous) it's clear that turbos are the way to go for ET and the rulebook has to keep changing to accommodate them.
Plus, if you get the launch thing figured out, you don't care about lag because you leave in boost.
Farmtruck, runs 10s with a hell of a lot of nitrous and a big block. Personally id stuff a 4.8/5.3 and th400 in the truck, pick out a used turbo from the local diesel turbo shop, e85 if you can, 50-100shot for spool and or as chemical intercooler. Not sure what truck you got but that ought to make it to 12s easlily enough. Old school slapper bars under leafsprings and a spool oughta do the trick
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