Timing Belt & VCT Valve Replacement Zetec

In a previous thread I was noting serious vacuum leak issues with my SVT Focus. The hive pointed me towards the cam timing, which it turn out is off. I could have (should have maybe) handed it off to a real mechanic but I figured for the price of the tools I would come out even with paying someone to replace my timing belt and VCT valve. 

Sticking point one - I can't get the crank bolt off. I tried using a strap wrench and a massive breaker bar, but no dice. All the videos show either snugging the breaker bar against the underside of the car and cranking the starter (no frigging way am I doing this) or using an impact wrench. Oh well so much for breaking even - I guess I need a wireless impact wrench. I don't have a compressor. 

Would this one have enough juice to loosen the bolt

Craftsman 20V Impact Wrench

I already have the battery pack so I just need the wrench plus some impact sockets.

While I am shopping would I want a set of impact wrench torque limiters to tighten the crank back eventually? I have a fairly inexpensive HF torque wrench and I am not sure I will be able to wrangle that properly with a strap wrench to get the crank bolt back on properly.

Also Zetec specific. The TDC tookit includes a pin you insert through the block into the crank to lock everything into TDC place when you do the timing. I took this pin out when I was trying to unbolt the crank pulley since I figured the last thing I wanted was to snap that crank pin tool inside the engine. Is that the right call or the wrong call?

Use the starter and either the chassis or the ground to hold your breaker bar. Seriously. It'll work and is plenty safe. 
Bust it lose, then spin it back around to put the locking pin back in and then remove the crank pulley. 

If you use the starter method unplug your coil packs first so the car doesn't start. If you're not comfortable with that method you can try heating the bolt head up with a plumber's torch. I dont know if it's the case with this but lots of manufacturers put a bit of loctite on the bolt and a few hundred degrees will break that down. Or you could take it to a shop and ask them just to break it loose for you and snug it back down. I did that on my crv when I needed to replace the crank seal. It had to go to the dealership for the airbag recall so I just paid them to break it loose while it was in there.

GTwannaB said:

In a previous thread I was noting serious vacuum leak issues with my SVT Focus. The hive pointed me towards the cam timing, which it turn out is off. I could have (should have maybe) handed it off to a real mechanic but I figured for the price of the tools I would come out even with paying someone to replace my timing belt and VCT valve. 

Sticking point one - I can't get the crank bolt off. I tried using a strap wrench and a massive breaker bar, but no dice. All the videos show either snugging the breaker bar against the underside of the car and cranking the starter (no frigging way am I doing this) or using an impact wrench. Oh well so much for breaking even - I guess I need a wireless impact wrench. I don't have a compressor. 

Would this one have enough juice to loosen the bolt

Craftsman 20V Impact Wrench

I already have the battery pack so I just need the wrench plus some impact sockets.

While I am shopping would I want a set of impact wrench torque limiters to tighten the crank back eventually? I have a fairly inexpensive HF torque wrench and I am not sure I will be able to wrangle that properly with a strap wrench to get the crank bolt back on properly.

Also Zetec specific. The TDC tookit includes a pin you insert through the block into the crank to lock everything into TDC place when you do the timing. I took this pin out when I was trying to unbolt the crank pulley since I figured the last thing I wanted was to snap that crank pin tool inside the engine. Is that the right call or the wrong call?

 

 

 

Hate to say it but the method you dont want to use is what we used to do all the time with the 02-05 Explorers at my dealer. Its the easiest method especially if the car has never had it off before(dont know your situation).

We use the starter method on ztec crank bolts. 

I had the same electric impact a few years back, there ain't no way it will have the ass to zap the bolt out. 

Heat and a big ol breaker bar are my go to when starter method work. 

You also can find TDC by using a dial indicator or a dowel in the  #1 spark plug hole.

The cam lobes should be pointing up so you know you are on #1.

I used this method when I installed the under drive pulley and shorter belt on my ZX2SR.

I will never doubt this crew. I did the starter bump and from the noise I expected to see a shattered breaker bar, but all is just fine and easy. In high school I would have done this without blinking, I am old and cautious now. I am sure I will be asking more questions, especially about how to clock/preset the VCT properly. 

BTW if you want 1.5 hours of automotive zen, watch Sue change the timing belt on a focus. I have no affiliation, but this is probably the best auto repair video I have come across. I need to start a fan club for Sue. 

Change Timing Belt With Sue

So what is the best way to hold the cams in place when loosening the cam sprockets? There are what might be called bosses on the cams, not the lobes but sort of rectangular in shape. They are bigger than my largest 1" open end wrench. On the intake cam I can just fit my adjustable wrench over the boss - see here: 

But what I am calling the boss on the exhaust cam is a bit larger than my wrench and a bit more rounded. Not sure if this is the best approach, but watching videos and seeing pictures in forums looks like folks use a wrench grabbing onto the cam (not on lobes) to hold in place. Should I just get a larger adjustable wrench? Should I use more of a pipe wrench than a crescent wrench? 

My Chilton's does not cover the SVT, so it is not entirely useful here. It references a Ford service tool or explains how to make your own tool that locks into place within the cam sprockets. The problem is that the SVT motor has variable valve timing so the intake cam does not have a sprocket that can be held using the tool here:

I also know not to use the cam alignment tool for holding the cam in place when loosening or tightening. 

Picture of the intake (left) vs exhaust sprockets. I do know I need to first take out the torx cover for the variable timing doohickey on the intake, then I loosen a second torx bolt that keeps the sprocket on the cam. 

Advice from the crew?

I use the crescent wrench method that you are using there. 

In reply to Professor_Brap (Forum Supporter) :

Agreed. I may have seen big Channel Locks used more than once too, lol. 

Ive seen guys use an old timing belt, wrap it around the sprocket of the cam, and then secure the other end to something not moving to hold the cams in place.  I ususally hit them with an impact if there is access - TBH never worked on a Zetec tho.  

93gsxturbo said:

Ive seen guys use an old timing belt, wrap it around the sprocket of the cam, and then secure the other end to something not moving to hold the cams in place.  I ususally hit them with an impact if there is access - TBH never worked on a Zetec tho.  

That can be done. But it takes some careful holding. 

OK so I replaced the timing belt and aligned the camshafts at TDC using the cam tool. Does anyone know the torque specs on the cam bolts for a SVT Focus? I can easily find that the torque specs on the exhaust cam is 50ft-lbs/38n-m but I see different info on the VVT intake side. One location had a spec of 89ft-lbs another location has the same specs as the exhaust cam. 89ft-lbs sounds high and my torque wrench maxes at 80. My Chilton only has regular zetec, not SVT info.