So I know this is pretty newbish but I'm not super handy with a wrench. I've never changed my own spark plugs before, so, anyone have any handy tips for the job?
So I know this is pretty newbish but I'm not super handy with a wrench. I've never changed my own spark plugs before, so, anyone have any handy tips for the job?
When you put the new ones in, start them off by hand, to avoid any cross-threading.
And if you're doing the plug wires, too, change them one at a time, so you don't mix-up the firing order.
Luke wrote: And if you're doing the plug wires, too, change them one at a time, so you don't mix-up the firing order.
Quoted for truth
Also, buy a tube of antisieze and apply it to the thread before you install. If you ever want to change the plugs again, you will thank me. And don't forget to torque them the spec not just tight.
Adding to the above tips: wait for the engine to completely cool before changing plugs, especially if it's a aluminum alloy / non-iron block!...
If the plug holes are not very accessible, use a piece of flexible silicone hose, slipped over the tip, to start it into the threads. DO NOT FORCE IT. Once started correctly, use your socket to torque it in.
don't buy cheap plugs.
don't go for gimmick plugs..
...Righty-tighty/lefty-loosey.
Good variety of extentions, u-joints or flexy extentions are handy for the hard to get to stuff.
NYG95GA wrote: If the plug holes are not very accessible, use a piece of flexible silicone hose, slipped over the tip, to start it into the threads. DO NOT FORCE IT. Once started correctly, use your socket to torque it in.
+1. I keep a little scrap piece of fuel hose in my tool kit for this purpose. Anti-seize is a good idea too. Like iggy said, buy good plugs. I'm a fanboi for NGK's.
Co-worker gave me a good tip....(Totally logical sort of a DOH! moment when he told me.)
Always turn the plug the opposite direction (Lefty loosey) to start the threads. When you feel the threads "click" ...the plug threads and cylinder head threads are lined up to start easily. Proceed to rotate the plug into the head.
Rog
Make sure they are gapped correctly too.
Use COPPER based anti-seize.
Don't break them off in the block, their a PITA to get back out. Sorry we're we supposed to post positive tips....
Andrew
Adding to the buy good plugs/not gimmick plugs.
Don't overbuy plugs, the latest tech may not work properly in a 10 year old engine. I've had two instances where bosch platinum + 4 plugs threw misfire codes in bmw s52 engines, misfires went away with a period correct plug.
Another vote for NGK's.
Agree on all posted, particularly the 'gimmick' plugs. I've seen platinum plugs cause cold misfires in older type vehicles. I lean toward NGK, Nippondenso and Bosch Supers for engines that don't require platinums and NGK/Nippondenso for those that do.
When tightening the plugs, 'taper seat' plugs should go in hand tight till they stop, then 1/16 to 1/8 turn more with a wrench, NO MORE. 'Gasket' plugs should go in finger tight then a max of 1/4 to 1/3 turn more with a wrench, NO MORE.
Don't buy a pickup with the inner fender liners missing if you live in the rust belt. It leads to the hex of the plug rotting away. My current DD Ranger is like this. I'll probably end up pulling the head.
coming from a guy with permanent scars on his one arm from a 1986 Pontiac Grand Am SE V6; pay a mechanic.
pete240z wrote: coming from a guy with permanent scars on his one arm from a 1986 Pontiac Grand Am SE V6; pay a mechanic.
Wuss.....try the back 4 on an Aurora
Grtechguy wrote:pete240z wrote: coming from a guy with permanent scars on his one arm from a 1986 Pontiac Grand Am SE V6; pay a mechanic.Wuss.....try the back 4 on an Aurora
Wuss.....try the back three on the original SHO.
Torque them down 'till they strip and then back them off half a turn.
No, maybe don't do that.
By a P71.
the easiest I have ever done, I did today, the Supra was a breeze to change plugs.
the worst I have ever done were the back three on my girlfriends old Oldsmobile Intrigue.
I like denso.
I generally use Champions, but they're not what they used to be. I'm not sure why.
If you have an engine with hard-to-reach back plugs, perhaps all you need to do is unbolt the front bolts on the engine cradle and lower it GENTLY, it might be so much easier to do. BTDT on a Rendezvous.
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