Too legit to rip?

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Aluminum-Hydraulic-Emergency-Brake/dp/B010XEG10A

a $40 hydro... is it made of styrofoam? Next cheapest one I’ve found is $225... and no reviews. Anyone have experience with this trash?

Reading the description it may or may not come with the 3/4 master.  That could just be Engrish translation but ya sounds cheap but it maybe worth it.  Theres alway someone looking to knock  off / rip off others and sell cheaper...

3/4"???  You want a .625 bore master for a hydraulic handbrake, especially one with as little leverage as that one has.

I cheaped out and used a .700 bore on mine (because it was $25 on the scratch and dent rack) and I have a 12:1 ratio on my handbrake lever and it's just barely enough to work. 

I want one of those just for the brake handle in my Jetta.  

In reply to noddaz :

Right! 

Knurled. said:

3/4"???  You want a .625 bore master for a hydraulic handbrake, especially one with as little leverage as that one has.

 

I cheaped out and used a .700 bore on mine (because it was $25 on the scratch and dent rack) and I have a 12:1 ratio on my handbrake lever and it's just barely enough to work. 

But that's only a piece of the equation.  What size is the rear caliper piston, what radius is it mounted on, what diameter are the tires, what type of pads, what type of tires, etc.

Knurled. said:

3/4"???  You want a .625 bore master for a hydraulic handbrake, especially one with as little leverage as that one has.

 

I cheaped out and used a .700 bore on mine (because it was $25 on the scratch and dent rack) and I have a 12:1 ratio on my handbrake lever and it's just barely enough to work. 

Nah, just bolt a giant berkeleying Katana or some E36 M3 to the end and rip that thing like you mean it

In reply to NickD :

A light bowling ball on the stick. Momentum advantage 1-0. 

Clearly, you need the double pumper

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014IUBH2W/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?psc=1

In reply to Robbie :

Clearly, controlling two circuits with one stick is a must have. 

In reply to Trackmouse :

But that method will halve the pressure to the brakes.  The correct way is with a double ended master cylinder:

In reply to Knurled. :

But the one you posted looks “too legit”, yo! 

We need that janky, chinsium (made a new word.) handle to rip. You know, the one that comes off in your hand, seconds before that 100mph backward entry drift into the tire wall? 

In reply to Trackmouse :

If the handle comes off in your hand, how are you sliding backwards?

BTW - I found that by searching for OMP handbrake.  OMP does make a double ended master cylinder like that, and it runs about $1400.  That unit I posted is around $160, or $660 with the master.  So way cheaper than legit parts.

Man, for those prices, I'd look into just using a .625 bore ACVW tandem master from a post '68 car.  Not sure what exact models had them but I have seen them in parts catalogs.

My handbrake is an automatic Accord shifter lever, with a Buick column-shift lever welded on top, because they were both lying around, and $5 worth of Home Depot flat stock to bolt a master cylinder to it.  Way less money than the chinesium junk, and it works better because it has leverage.  (And I can shift into 5th gear without my hand fouling on the lever)

A better setup I saw was a simple piece of tube welded to a disused Subaru timing belt idler pulley.  It's just a lever, doesn't need to be fancy...