trailer brake needs

i'm working on my old 14'6" enclosed trailer to bring the Z to the challenge. i retired it from daily duty 4 years ago and downsized to a smaller single axle trailer for my tools.

the trailer has a pair of 7k dexter torsion axles with 8 lug wheels and E range tires. it currently has brakes on all 4 wheels, and because the trailer went through a flood a couple years ago the brake assemblies are shot. they were pretty well crap to begin with. due to the water the drums are pitted inside and i am pretty sure they will not turn clean within spec.

i'm left with the choice of $150 for 4 new brake assemblies plus $90 each for drums with new bearings and seals. the other option is put brakes on one axle. the trailer weighs in at 2,000 according to the tag on the tongue, and my car adds another 2200. add in ramps, a small tool set, jack, 2 drag wheels/tires, 2 trailer spares, and i see things getting up into the 5,000 range of trailer, car, and extras. my flatbed car trailer has brakes on one axle and smaller 9" brake assemblies. going with that math, larger 12" brakes on a trailer that is never going to go over 5, it would seem just fine to run brakes on one axle. everything else seems ok and in the same condition as the last time i pulled it with the exception of tires are shot. it pulled fine otherwise.

what say you guys? i'm really unable to afford complete assemblies right now, but also do not want to compromise safety. i gather it has brakes on all 4 wheels because it has 7k axles, but the trailer is not going to be carrying 14k or even half that.

this is what i'm working with.

The biggest question is what will the tow vehicle be?

We had what may have been the world's heaviest open trailer to carry a 3400lb stock car, 4sets of wheels and tires, and a big steel cabinet that held an engine, 55 gal drum of full and assorted jacks, stands, ect. It came with brakes on one axle and it towed ok behind an old Chevy cube van.

mazdeuce wrote: The biggest question is what will the tow vehicle be?

2005 avalanche 1500 z71 with tow package, 4.10 gears, 8k tow rating, and weight distributing hitch. it'll stop it fine with no brakes on flat land, but we're taking I-77 from cleveland down to the challenge, and there are some long hills with curves at the bottom in west virginia.

right now it's looking $372 for all 4 shipped from amazon, half that for two, that's the best deal i can find including ebay, plus cash back points from amazon visa. biggest deal is having gas money and hotel room money plus a buffer for oh E36 M3 something broke time. that and i'll be missing a week of work right before the house and truck payments come out of the bank.

also what kind of material should i be looking at to build 8 foot long ramps for a sub 2300# car? my open deck trailer has huge 3x3x3/16 angle steel ramps that weigh a ton and are 4' long, definitely do not want to manhandle something twice as long/heavy.

I think the bigger question is, what's legal in your neighborhood? Here, if the trailer is capable of hauling more than 3500 pounds, all wheels must have brakes. I learned that as the cop was writing me the ticket...

With a wire brush and an angle grinder I'd bet you can get enough out of what you have for one axle. Do that with new bearings for the rear and new everything for the front.

At least then you meet the requirements for having the brakes, even if they work all that well something is better than nothing.

Sand blast the drums (don't waste time turning or grinding) sure it will wear the shoes faster but its not like its used every day. When I drag raced it was common to skip the finish cut on drums to give the shoes something to bite in too.

Replace the brake assemblies as whole units (just 4 or 5 bolts and two wires)

Trailer parts super store normal has a brake sale twice a year. I've gotten dexter 5k units for $28! yup whole units cheaper then just buying the shoes so check with them. NOTE: the only difference in the 5k to 7 k units is the magnet all the shoe and adjuster part numbers are the same so if you never load 7k per axle you can use the 5k units. http://www.easternmarine.com/12-x-2-electric-brake-assembly-right-hand-7k-k23-181-00

interesting observation on blasting the drums versus turning. i'll give that a go first. just ordered 4 new complete brake assemblies.

now on to ramps. i almost thought about making a ramp door, but not sure i have the time for that. trailer has swing open doors now. and i'm missing a fender. and i need to paint the wheels and put the newer tires on them. not running around on rusty wheels.

I load my e30 on 12 foot long 2x12's with a set of plastic ramps shoved under them about midway. I'd say that's the lightest and cheapest set of ramps available

I actually saw a corvette doing the same thing at amp a couple weekends ago too.

I bought a set of ATV ramps(used) that were rated at ~1400lbs, then reinforced them with a piece of hollow aluminum 2x4 tubing I had. They held up to a full-size '84 LTD, so they seem to be suitable for anything I need.

was kinda thinking the 2x12 or 10 route with a couple supports. thats how i got the wrx onto the other trailer with drop springs and air dam.

thus far it looks like i will be putting a winch out on the tongue in a box, running the cable through to the inside with a roller fairlead to not tear crap up and use the winch to pull the car in. i plan to put some 2x4 rails down on the floor to guide the tires and blocks at the front to stop against. then i can add tie down points for the rear to tie back, and have the thought of adding the straps that go over the tires for the front. the complete tie down would be accomplished through the rear and right side door except the LF wheel, where i would cut out an access door and put it on hinges with a locking hasp like the other doors. ramps slide under car, shelves with tie downs above it to hold the tires, tools, etc. because the trailer is 7' wide outside, the back door is 72 wide and the inside is about 80, so there is no hope of driving the car in and being able to get out. i can barely get out around the door bars with the door open.

so drive car up to ramps, hook up winch to front of car, pop in neutral and crank it up to the stops using the wood 2x4 as guides to keep the car centered in the trailer. simple, right? i can do that in 3 weeks along with rebuilding the brakes, figuring out the weight distributing hitch, mounting new tires, new fender, and making sure the lights all still work... if i can build a challenge car in 3 months i think i can outfit the trailer in 3 weeks. i think.....

Upgrade to 4x4s to keep the wheels straight, then it won't be able to move side to side in the trailer and you can just use the winch as the front tie for the driver's side.

Hmm. I have 4 new in box 12" 5k dexter brake assemblies I'd sell you for $130 plus shipping. Not sure if it'll save you anything with shipping (because heavy!) but it would be from 98105 if you're interested.

got 4 new assemblies for 147.99 shipped.

Get wireless remote for the winch.

@Patgizz... that's awesome! Glad you found a great price. Can't wait to read more about the Z.

4Msfam wrote: @Patgizz... that's awesome! Glad you found a great price. Can't wait to read more about the Z.

build thread in that section of the forum.

wireless remote - i have a HF ATV winch that i will probably use, it has a wireless remote. right now it's hanging my motorcycle from the garage rafters. the reason i bought it was when my superwinch on the flatbed was down for repair i had to go pick up a circle track car, and the little HF winch cranked it right up. not looking to spend big $ on anything here. already have almost new tires, have metal to repair things, have scrap wood for shelves, 2x's are cheap, and i paid for the brake assemblies by taking in 1400# of steel and 280# of aluminum yesterday.