I have a 15g off of a 1995 850 turbo laying around. the conical exhaust flange has cracked- I pulled it off and replaced it with a 16t. It has very little end play, did not smoke, and both sets of blades are unscathed.. I'll sell it to you for $100 shipped (Im in portland OR so however long that takes ups ground). It was the second turbo on the car so I'll venture a guess of 80-100k on it. With wastegate and CBV. you will need a exhaust flange. I'll send you pics if you like.
Uhmm... the auction I linked to has ended... because I bought it. Thanks though.
I was very pleased with the 16t in my '91 745t
ClemSparks wrote: Just to clarify, I wasn't trying to open a diplacement vs. pressure can-o-worms... but commenting mostly that I never thought turbos were simple (I've owned 4 vehicles with them and have never had a real problem with them...but they weren't there for simplicity ;)). And even that was just a joke...so...sorry to threadjack ;). Clem
Mine was a joke too. I love the turbo on my Cummins. It makes fun noises and 15 lbs of boost that really helps getting big trailers up hills at 65 mph.
But a big cube engine is a lot of fun, too...and you don't have to WAIT for the fun to start!
Well I am stuck now. I had a mix of misfortune, idiocy and lunacy. NOTHING wanted to come off of this car. I spent over an hour just disconnecting the downpipe. One stud needed to be dremeled in half, another came out with the nut. Once off, uh oh. I forgot snap ring pliers! OK, 1/2 hour and a sacrificial pair of needle nose and the new turbo comes apart for clocking. Why are there two studs protruding from this turbo when there were exactly zero threaded holes in the original? Hmm. No problem, double nut, twist and... NOPE. OK. Get the welder, weld angle iron onto the stud, it starts rotating, great! Grab it and twist, it goes 1/2 turn and tightens fast and snaps the stud in half. OK. Weld onto the stub, break that off flush. The second one is the same. Now I can't get to work. At least my neighbor has a Bridgeport in his garage.
Off to the neighborly Bridgeport!
-This stuff sucks. Up until 2 AM last night. I hate daily drivers.
Clocking used turbos is usually a nightmare.
I had to clock a 22 year old Supra Turbo to get it on my MX6.
Ask me how much i enjoyed doing that.
Too late now, but a monthly soaking in PB Blaster made my recent turbo swap a breeze-including clocking (separating really) the old turbo!
And how weird is it that both my current and former wagons would be getting essentially the same job done at exactly the same time?
It is weird. Clocking, ironically, was very easy. The bracket was child's play, and the new turbo was easy to take apart. The only issues are the two threaded studs in lieu of through holes and the fact that EVERYTHING fought me on the way out. That is combined with the 3 degrees of rotation you get on the average bolt on the Volvo.
Not really a believer in PB blaster, by the way.
The neighbors Bridgeport broke a belt. I was close to finished, so I just used his Enco fixture setup I had made and hand drilled it in there. Took a while, but the Bridgeport made it easy. Well, sorta.
Hmm.. where are his collets? 10 minutes
Hmmm... how do you actually turn this Bridgeport on?? 20 minutes (breaker by the garage door)
Hmm... where does he keep his drill bits? 1 hour
Hmmm... how do you remove the collet on this model? :: calls work :: 15 minutes
Hmm... how am I going to fixture this thing? 1 hour.
Let's see, small bit... SNAP!
Google: drill speeds for hardened steel. OOPS. Reduces speed of spindle from 1000 RPM to 100 RPM. Tries side without broken tiny drill bit in it.
It was a pain, and that housing is tough to fixture. Now lunch and then reassembly (and exhaust fab)
DILYSI Dave wrote: OK. Well then all that crap AROUND the larger displacement is heavy. :) My engine makes about 1HP per pound. Find me a large displacement NA that does that. :)
Why don't we look at engines that way? I'd like to see a chart that lists hp/engine weight/bsfc rather than hp/liter. Who cares about hp/displacement?
Teh E36 M3 wrote:DILYSI Dave wrote: OK. Well then all that crap AROUND the larger displacement is heavy. :) My engine makes about 1HP per pound. Find me a large displacement NA that does that. :)Why don't we look at engines that way? I'd like to see a chart that lists hp/engine weight/bsfc rather than hp/liter. Who cares about hp/displacement?
Amen.
hp/disp makes about as much sense as hp/ intake runner volume or hp/combustion chamber perimeter. It just has no right being the comparison of choice.
Not really a believer in PB blaster, by the way.
BLASPHEMER!
poopshovel wrote:Not really a believer in PB blaster, by the way.BLASPHEMER!
What he said.
Given enough soak time I could take apart the Brooklyn Bridge with a case of PB Blaster and some vise grips.
Show me a rusted joint that's been PB blasted from one side and has had the PB blaster creep all of the way to the other side. Even one or two threads. Then I will believe.
poopshovel wrote:Not really a believer in PB blaster, by the way.BLASPHEMER!
PBlaspemer!
tuna55 wrote: Show me a rusted joint that's been PB blasted from one side and has had the PB blaster creep all of the way to the other side. Even one or two threads. Then I will believe.
I hate the stuff. I think it stinks, it doesn't spray worth a E36 M3, so it gets all over the place, etc. But it works. I had to pull apart a turbo a few weeks ago. First stud gave me fits. Then I sprayed. Remaining ones were no problem. Pulling the center and the turbine housing apart was giving me fits. Then I sprayed. One hit with the hammer and they were apart. It's good stuff.
I don't think you will see 1-2 threads of creep, because it works on capillary action. By the time you get enough open space to see, it's done creeping.
tuna55 wrote: Show me a rusted joint that's been PB blasted from one side and has had the PB blaster creep all of the way to the other side. Even one or two threads. Then I will believe.
tuna55 wrote: Not really a believer in PB blaster, by the way.
never owned a jeep have you?
I am done. Again. Still not running. I hate this now with a passion. Everything is all together, after breaking my home made snap ring pliers and going to work to borrow a set. I started to add coolant and it just poured out of the two plugged holes in the center section. Being that it's 3 AM, I assumed they were just open threaded holes for other fittings, so I grabbed some plugs and loctite from work and tried to start them for a while...
Now what, JB weld? Don't have any... next?
This truly and really sucks, by far the worst car project I have ever done, and I have done some major surgery.
tuna55 wrote: I am done. Again. Still not running. I hate this now with a passion. Everything is all together, after breaking my home made snap ring pliers and going to work to borrow a set. I started to add coolant and it just poured out of the two plugged holes in the center section. Being that it's 3 AM, I assumed they were just open threaded holes for other fittings, so I grabbed some plugs and loctite from work and tried to start them for a while... Now what, JB weld? Don't have any... next? This truly and really sucks, by far the worst car project I have ever done, and I have done some major surgery.
For now, get some sleep. Sounds like it's been a long brutal experience.
It gets worse! I was wrong. The plugged holes are plugged. The water is just pouring out of the banjo fittings. ALL of them, even the oil fitting, albeit at a MUCH slower pace than the water fittings. I can't see anything wrong. I added a copper washer under the banjo on the water fittings which did zip. Are the fittings wrong? I cannot fathom how they could not leak on the 13C and yet leak on the 16T. Same fittings, just replaced the copper. The copper was under the head of the fitting, not under the banjo originally. It seems to be leaking at the fitting/turbo interface rather than the fitting/banjo interface.
As far as going to bed, I have to be up in one hour and 17 minutes. I have to work. This is my ride.
Well let's hope the (barely) majority is right on turbobricks, and that watercooling the turbo is not necessary if you cool it down after driving. I tightened down on the oil banjo and no more leaks there, just the little drip because of the needed oil drain seal. I'll take my 1/2 hour sleep and go to work with it. Wish me luck!
Right, then! Good Luck, and knock 'em dead!
Well it got me here today. That's a start. Not really a "WOW, a bunch more HP" moment, more of a "well, it does sound a bit meaner and doesn't nose over as soon" kind of thing.
Glad you got it going. As far as the coolant leaks, that was payback for dissin' PB Blaster. 
I would still work on getting that thing water cooled.
Also - unless you've altered the boost control, I wouldn't expect for a different turbo to give you an OMG!!!!1!!!!1!1!! experience.
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