Smirnus
New Reader
8/15/19 5:51 p.m.
I need to replace the front mount in my 2013 Dodge Grand Caravan. The parts cost range from $12-40 aftermarket with questionable reviews to $200 for Mopar. Thinking about adding urethane to an aftermarket unit, hoping for durability. Anyone do this in a daily driver? Trying to avoid increased vibrations to passengers. Thinking about 60a durometer or softer maybe?
I’ve done 60a from McMaster in a few of my cars over the years and the vibrations are very tame.
I've done several performance DD's with the stuff from McMaster. The vibration will drop off in a few weeks. Took the 3SGTE RAV4 in to work today. Not bothersome at all.
3m Window Weld into mounts here a few times. Did it to two different Hyundai Elantra cars and they always worked better than anything else.
My current try is my wifes 2015 Edge Sport. The factory mount has like 3/4" play to keep the vibrations down. An upgraded mount is north of $150. So i bought a used mount off ebay, 3m window weld off amazon and spent 30 minutes prepping the thing. Made it look nice and so far its been perfect. You can feel a small amount of NVH with the A/C on but its barely noticeable. Wife didnt even say anything when i swapped it in.
There is no more engine movement on hard throttle applications and no more "knock" going from reverse to drive. Worth the time and money versus one of the other solutions.
I've also done 3M Window Weld, you might get a little more vibration at low revs at most.
In reply to kevinatfms :
Do you leave the old rubber in (if it's not a solid mount) or do you cut everything out?
I tend to leave the old stuff in. If it's all busted (as usual,) then I center the center sleeve with tooth picks or bits of wire, whatever, first. Wrap the bottom (or one side, actually) with cellophane, then tape the crap out of it, then push the whole thing down into a bucket of sand for further support, then pour it.
Be careful with prep when leaving the existing rubber in or you could have two perfect moulds pop out the sides of your mount when you run it, I've had that happen before...degrease it, scuff it, maybe even punch/drill holes through it to help the urethane from the two sides to connect, and then degrease it again until you can degrease it with a paper towel and not have black stuff come out.
Jay_W
Dork
8/16/19 7:45 p.m.
I got sick and tired of changing motormounts in my e55 twice a year and put in some urethane mounts. I can tell they're there at idle. Otherwise, no difference.
'Cept that I haven't hadda replace 'em since.
FuzzWuzzy said:
In reply to kevinatfms :
Do you leave the old rubber in (if it's not a solid mount) or do you cut everything out?
Leave the rubber in. The 3M window weld just fills the voids making it stiffer. So you still have some rubber "give" to it but no more voids to cause excessive engine movement.
The last set i did on our Chump Car and they came out great. For $21 i did all 4 mounts and the thing is perfect. Not poly mount NVH but stiff enough to feel a little vibration.
The wife's Edge was easy. That thing had two big openings on either side. Just taped the back off, filled to the top and used a tongue depresser to push it through. Make sure that all the air bubbles are out and just let it sit for 24 hours or so. Remove the tape, shave off anything that gets in the way to mount the thing and torque the bolts to the correct values.
Another vote for 3M Windo-Weld. I've been doing the mounts on the CR-V one at a time using about half a tube per mount. LOTS of void space, and a little more vibration at idle but gone by ~750 rpm, and a quick adjustment of the hood bumpers got rid of any rattles.