Thats clean....
I want to be angry with you for scoring these deals, but I can't because I am laughing too much at the thought of a $120k car (new) being sold for $3k, especially in the condition that it appears to be in.
A co-worker of mine just dropped $25k on one that looks identical to that coupe. Taking that into account it looks like there's money to be made flipping these. But only for the extremely brave.
camaroz1985 wrote: I want to be angry with you for scoring these deals, but I can't because I am laughing too much at the thought of a $120k car (new) being sold for $3k, especially in the condition that it appears to be in.
He mentioned he paid 140ish off the showroom floor, that was probably after options and all the fees etc. He didn't seemed to be bothered by the depreciation either....real laid back guy. Depreciation like that would keep me up at night, but I got the feeling this guy played at a whole other level.
So I did get the last bolt off last night that was holding the busted hose on, man that was a pain. The manual says to raise the engine, but I was able to squeeze in there and get it off without doing that, so saved a lot of time. Hopefully I'll be able to get it back on without raising the engine....we'll see. I ran out of time, but will snake the hose out tonight, then hopefully get a new one made tomorrow. If all goes well I hope to have the suspension working this weekend. Crossing my fingers the pump is okay. I used to think my old 944 turbo was a pain to work on....I don't think that anymore.
That car sitting there with a clapped out slammed suspension looks AWESOME.
V12 TT , can't get much better. Have fun!
Looks like fun!!!
After seeing yours I had to check craigslist. Found this luckily I don't need anymore cars right now or I'd go check it out to see if it is just the shift linkage.
So the suspension on the cl600 is fixed. I had a local shop make me a new hose, so $90 vs $329 plus for oem. Once I got the hose back on and buttoned up the suspension pumped up after a few seconds and has held just fine. I haven't driven it yet since my gauge cluster isn't back, but I did go ahead and flush the power steering. I also plan to flush the abc system once amazon gets my 5 liters of pentosin to me.
Btw the hose was a pain to get back on. I didn't end up having to raise the engine or drop the subframe, but I did have to have an extra set of hands to get that banjo bolt back in.
While I was poking around this thing I noticed several leaks....valve cover gaskets and oil pan, maybe a trans leak at the electrical plug, so I will tackle those eventually. They have leaked enough to make a mess under the car over time, but not bad enough to cause a puddle or anything.
I also ordered a single bar amg style grill (current grill was flaking, plus I like this style much better), new ps and abc filters, and ecu and tcu tunes from eurocharged. I know that's (the tunes) really getting ahead of myself since I've barely even driven the car, but they had a half off Black Friday sale that was too hard to resist. I won't apply the tunes until after I drive the car....if it doesn't drive well the s600 will get tuned instead. So that's it for now. Hopefully my cluster will be back next week and I can start driving this thing to see what needs to be addressed next.
I just got tracking info on the cluster and it should be delivered Friday, so this weekend should be interesting. The plan is the install the cluster, flush the abc fluid, then go for a test drive. If all goes well, errr well enough, I'll order new front tires for it, then start taking some cruises to see what shakes out. If I make it that far and it seems solid enough, well then the ecu and tcu tunes get applied .
Also, the reason for front tires....both front tires are worn badly on the inside, so I need to look into that as well, but first I just want to successfully make it a few miles!
I'm eagerly awaiting your impressions of this thing. As mentioned i'd been watching for s600 biturbos ever since M4ff3w turned me on to them, but i've recently realized how much more i like the idea of a CL with the same engine.
Hey guys sorry for the lacking updates, but I've been held up by a couple of things:
-the cluster - I sent it off to be repaired. I got it back, but the clock/transmission status block was not working. The clock I really don't care about, but I want to know trans status, so I know whether I'm in comfort or sport and also to know what gear I'm in when using manual mode. I shipped it back out and am waiting for it once again.
-star diagnostics - Being delivered today!! I'm very anxious to use the tool on both cars. It should make troubleshooting these complex beasts much easier.
I have done some work on the cl while waiting for all this stuff though. I installed my new grill, new ps and abc filters, and flushed those systems as well.
I also replaced the 13 pin trans connector, it is a common failure point and eventually will allow atf to enter the TCU, which mine did. I pulled the tcu, the took it apart and cleaned it and it seems to be fine. However, I still have a transmission fault code, which could be the module under the console, but I'm hoping star diagnostics will point me in the right direction without me just throwing parts at it.
I also bought the trans filter, pan gasket, etc and will change the transmission fluid this weekend.
That being said, I was hoping for a test drive sooner, but I want the cluster back and the trans fault repaired before a real test drive, so to be continued there.
Yupididit - I am a big fan of before and after dynos, so I really hope to do that with this one. I really just need to get to the point of a drive with a few full throttle runs to see if she is healthy enough for a baseline...we will see. It does seem like it from the limited moving around I've done, but then again my S only misfired at full throttle. That being said I haven't applied either tune yet and it's killing me. I really want to feel how much the tune adds.
Vigo - Initially I thought I'd like the s better because of the additional rear seat room, but this CL with the pillarless coupe design is just so classy/elegant/etc, so I think it might become my favorite.
Quick update on the CL:
So the suspension is staying fixed, which is great.
I had sent the cluster back because the clock wasn't working, so got it back in and still no clock....damn it. Anyway, I started poking around in STAR diagnostic, which in hindsight I couldn't have successfully DIYed this car without, and found a module for the cluster which said something like "initialize" or something. I really don't remember, but I clicked it, the cluster flashed, and I had a clock. Bizarre since everything else worked, but the clock, but hey I'll take it. Oh and I'm not sure if I ever mentioned the miles, because when I bought the car I really didn't know. The PO told me around 195k and the last carfax entry was around 170k, but without a working cluster I couldn't be sure. It turns out it has 187k and change.
Anyway, with the cluster operational I decided to move on to the multiple trans issues:
-Lockout engages occasionally when moving between gears.
-No transmission status in cluster.
-manual mode doesn't work.
-comfort performance button doesn't work.
-engages hard
-in limp mode.
-multiple trans codes
So the first thing I did was replace the 13 pin transmission harness connector since it's cheap, easy, and a common failure point. Mine had failed and was allowing atf in the TCU, but after the new plug, cleaning the tcu, etc, no change.
Next up was the shift module, which is actually in the shifter itself. One of the codes pointed specifically to this, as did STAR, so I was down to either a dealer part or getting mine rebuilt. Apparently they are coded to the car, so STAR was a must here. To get to the module I had to pull the console, which is a monster, then pull the shift assembly. Once out I found a rebuild sticker on it, so looked up the company and sure enough they rebuild these. Mine was out of warranty, and I wasn't the original purchaser anyway, but they still cut me a deal and replaced the module for $200 (I think from the dealer it's over 1k). I got the repaired shifter back and installed it, then it was time to code it to the car, which is real simple if you know what you're doing, unfortunately I was in the totally wrong spot in STAR, so after banging my head against the dash for awhile I starting browsing around STAR, found something else for shift module initialization, clicked it, and like magic the shifter was movable now and the shift mode and gear status appear in the cluster. So I check the codes again and some are gone, while others still remain, which leaves me with a bad TCU, TCU harness, or conductor plate. The remaining codes I have are various shift solenoid codes. The solenoids sit on the conductor plate, which sits on top of the valve body. Anyway, after swapping TCUs between the S and the CL it was looking more and more like the conductor plate or a combination of solenoids. The internet told me the solenoids hardly ever go bad and the conductor plates go bad A LOT, so I decided to start there. Then work travel got in the way, then holidays, then personal travel, so I didn't get a chance to install it until Sunday.
Anyway, remaining symptoms:
-trans codes
-limp mode
-manual shift doesn't work
-engages hard
-can't change between comfort and sport modes.
Anyway, new conductor plate in, codes cleared, and success! No more trans codes and all trans functions work! Well at least when screwing around in the garage and moving between gears, smooth engagement etc, but I didn't have a chance to pull it out of the garage and drive it. The test drive will have to happen one evening this week after work or over the weekend. If that goes well I'll order a couple of front tires, then think about a dyno, then apply the tunes.
Also, I had a non trans related code that turned out to be a broken vacuum line. I fixed that last night, so now there are no codes at all, which is a nice change. The PO also mentioned an occasional misfire, so I imagine there is a coil going out and that will reveal itself soon enough.
Also, I'm getting some oil smoke from the S now, but it runs great. Possible a turbo seal? Maybe something worse? Who knows, but I'll get it on the lift soon and see what I can find.
Anyway that is the end of the updates. I still love these cars and came very close to buying a nice, low mileage CL55 to have a peak at the supercharged v8 side of things, but it sold before I could even send an email....was priced very well. Anyway that was probably for the best as I need to keep these monsters on the road, so really should focus on them.
so costs:
-module repair $200
-cluster repair $229
-transmission dipstick $7.59
-conductor plate (with additional 13 pin connector) $129
Glad you're finally seeing success with the S Cotton. All these MB luxobarge threads are giving me the urge to buy one. Maybe one day.
mazdeuce wrote: You inspire me. Also, did you mention where you got your STAR software?
I got it from MBstartool.com. I opted for the c3 version with the laptop and all software preinstalled. Make sure and email them because they gave me a better price through email with the shipping included than what was listed on their site. The complete kit with laptop, cables, software, etc was $575 and before it shipped they sent me a picture showing it operational, then I got it a week later. It works great and was WELL worth the investment. I've used it multiple times already on both cars where I would have been at the mercy of a shop otherwise.
It's funny, reading Deuce's thread I sit and think 'I don't have the time, money or inclination to do something like this, but as he says it's just nuts bolts and part, I could do it if I had too.' Then I read this and I more like.
Somehow diagnosing iffy electronics and swapping $200 modules scares the crap out of me way more than the thought of buying a lift and pulling a $50K engine and diving in.
No, I make no sense to myself either.
Keep up the good work (both of you) and let us mere mortals live vicariously through you.
In reply to Adrian_Thompson:
I've freaked myself out a couple of times. One time I put the s600 in limp mode simply by disconnecting, then reconnecting the TCU! I quickly went into STAR and cleared the codes it had generated though and all was normal afterwards. However, the more I work on them the more comfortable I get. I'm not saying they are easy to work on, some things are easy and some are very difficult, but doable for sure. I'm not sure I'd want to without some sort of lift though. I have a pad lift, which is okay, but a two or four post would be idea. I could do everything under jack stands, but over the years I had come to hate the process of getting a car high on jack stands, especially a lowered car, which is why I initially bought the pad lift. My ceilings are too low and concrete too thin for a big lift, but I'll change that eventually. Anyway, glad you guys are enjoying it. I think the real fun will be when the tunes are applied and I get to the dyno.
This is too much reading for me, don't have the attention span, but I want to say I support this thread whole-heartedly. Carry on.
This looks great. I think I'll replace the xjr with a w220 2003+ s55 or s600.
But that pricing a little bit more can get me in a 06+ cayenne turbo or dare I sacrifice my bank account e60 m5.
In reply to Adrian_Thompson:
There is a 90% chance I'll get stuck in Mercedes brain hell in the near future. It is what it is. At least the solutions exist.
I know this is $4k, but that's a hell of a lot of extra power.
G_Body_Man wrote: I know this is $4k, but that's a hell of a lot of extra power.
Renntech makes some great stuff, I have a few of their goodies on my 6L AMG SEC, but they are so expensive. I ended up ordering the Eurocharged ECU/TCU tunes during their black Friday sale (half off!). They will get me to 593hp/695TQ, then I plan to add an upgraded intercooler pump and catless downpipes if all goes well after the tune. I have not applied the tunes yet because I wanted a somewhat healthy car to baseline dyno first. Now that the trans issues are worked out I have a few other thinks to wrap up, like a coolant leak, then hopefully I can get it baselined.
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