I'm trying to figure out the value of an '95 E36 M3 were trying to sell. It has 106K on it and is probably an 8/10 cosmetically. Everything works, and the drivetrain seems to be in good shape. KBB says $5k, but I know that's not right. What would you guys estimate the value at? I'm guessing around $8.5k
I'd say you are in the ball park at around $7-8k. Since it looks nice it may sell quick - list it high and go from there.
Perhaps KBB assumes that it wasn't maintained, and needs a cooling system overhaul and the drive shaft flex joint ASAP?
The way I make an offer on these is by the condition of the front/rear trailing arm bushings and swaybar endlinks. If any are shot - the guy didn't do the easy stuff I can assume he didn't do anything at all. That is a $4k offer.
If I see new parts under there and it all looks great... that's worth another $3k to me after a leakdown test to make sure I'm not in for a headgasket job when I get home.
So... $4-7k. If it's BEAUTIFUL, or has 4 doors... add $500.
HappyAndy wrote: Perhaps KBB assumes that it wasn't maintained, and needs a cooling system overhaul and the drive shaft flex joint ASAP?
KBB numbers are REALLY low. I suspect that it is a combination of low-level title fraud and misreported vehicle condition.
If I had $8k, and the bushings had been done and the coolant system had been sorted, I'd have already sent it to your PayPal. If it needed the work, I'd offer $6K.
Man I wish I had the cash because that is a car I really need.
Yeah unless there are receipts for the cooling system in the recent past, a lot of people are going to be very cautious.
There is not enough info in your post to give you a good idea on price.
If all the above is in good shape and you have paperwork showing that all the work is done, some people will pay 8-10k for a car like that. I personally like the 96-99's better, but some people don't care.
Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote: The way I make an offer on these is by the condition of the front/rear trailing arm bushings and swaybar endlinks. If any are shot - the guy didn't do the easy stuff I can assume he didn't do anything at all. That is a $4k offer. If I see new parts under there and it all looks great... that's worth another $3k to me after a leakdown test to make sure I'm not in for a headgasket job when I get home. So... $4-7k. If it's BEAUTIFUL, or has 4 doors... add $500.
You forgot to subtract 1000 for an automatic......otherwise I agree with your post.
Where in TX are you located?
So here's some more info, I realize I didn't give you guys enough in the first post. The car is a 5spd with no 5th gear lean or other issues. The interior is 7/10, the only issues are the delaminating door panels, and the drivers seat is a little worn. The cooling system has not been redone, nor have the bushings, save for some powerflex rtabs. The car is coming up on some major maintenance, but that's kind of the reason I'm considering selling it. I don't really have the time to give it all the TLC it needs. Unfortunately, there's no paperwork. The dealer I bought it from showed me the receipts but wouldn't let me have them. The receipts he showed us led me to believe it was very well maintained, and there was only one previous owner. From what I've seen on the car, I believe this to be true. Unfortunately, there's no way to prove it.
Edit: DFW
I think you should be able to get somewhere around 5.5-6k for it.
Yeah, with all of the work it's going to need, thats a $5,000-6,000 car.
If you don't have the reciepts any potential buyer has to assume nothing has been done. Sucks, but that's the truth.
funny thing is.. cooling system redo is an afternoon's work and a few hundred, Same with the bushings.. so.. 2 days and 500ish dollars to gain $2000 on the selling price?
I would say ask $6500 and take the first offer over $5500. To get $8500 you would have to do the cooling system and other stuff it needs with factory quality parts and have the receipts available.
mad_machine wrote: funny thing is.. cooling system redo is an afternoon's work and a few hundred, Same with the bushings.. so.. 2 days and 500ish dollars to gain $2000 on the selling price?
I just got finished redoing the cooling system and suspension on mine. Its not a few hundred, and definitely not an afternoon job for the bushings. Doing it with good parts, you are looking at ~$1000 at least ... And my time is money, so you need to take that into account.
The cooling system is an afternoon job. The front suspension, and rear bushings is a one day job. Hopefully you have a press and nothing else needs changed while in there.
It took me about 6 hours to do my front suspension overhaul (control arms, bushings and struts) on my 318ti. That included an hour break for dinner. I also didn't have a press so I drilled out both control arm bushings and cut the metal sleeve so it would slide off the bracket. I'm sure with the right tools, you can be done in 4 hours with ~$250 worth of parts.
I can't speak for the cooling system but doing that at the cost of parts would also bump up your selling price a lot.
I wouldn't go so low as $5500 as you still have a low mileage car. I'm sure some enthusiast would be willing to pay at least $6000 for it if you ask $7000. Fix the suspension bushings and cooling system and you may have a $8000 car.
Looking at all the E36 M3's locally, they seem to be priced much higher than you guys are suggesting. The worst ones are priced around $5k, with decent ones priced at $8k, and ones similar to mine from $9k-$11k.
I think I'm going to price it high and see what happens. If I'm not having any luck, I can just lower it.
I have an e28 project car that is taking up all my time, hence not being able to get around to this.
MINIzguy wrote: It took me about 6 hours to do my front suspension overhaul (control arms, bushings and struts) on my 318ti. That included an hour break for dinner. I also didn't have a press so I drilled out both control arm bushings and cut the metal sleeve so it would slide off the bracket. I'm sure with the right tools, you can be done in 4 hours with ~$250 worth of parts.
Go price the lower control arms for an M3, they are over 250.
And you still have to do the rear. If you have a compact, it is way more complicated.
There is no way in hell you get 10k for that car, probably not even 7 as it is, but it does not hurt trying.
Actually, I hope you get 15k ... that helps the resale of my M3 down the road, lol.
I know none of you would pay that much, but that doesn't mean someone locally who doesn't know anything about these cars won't.
I guess we'll see how it does, thanks for all the help.
Rmon wrote: I know none of you would pay that much, but that doesn't mean someone locally who doesn't know anything about these cars won't.
Umm... that may be, but you asked OUR opinion on the value.
If the opportunity presents itself to self for more than it's value, wonderful- go for it.
But that doesn't make the value any higher, even if you find a local sucker.
A '95 is a plus for someone looking for an OBDI car, but they're still the lowest value E36 M3. The exterior condition looks good, but I'd need to see some more pictures to give a full assessment. How's the interior condition?
You might be able to sell it to a local who knows nothing about the M3s, but most people looking for an E36 M3 know enough about them to know the maintenance they require. And with no evidence of maintenance being done, I'd say 5-5.5k is right in the range.
Check out the Bimmerforums classifieds for comps before you throw out a number.
Used BMW's aren't worth as much as you think.
They are a Yuppie car. Yuppies don't want something used that is about to need a lot of maintenance.
Plus, they are a status car. There's not much status in a 9 year old vehicle with 100K on it.
For these reasons, BMW has the fastest depreciation curve of any major marque.
Plus, you are in a price point that few people can pay cash, and banks are ONLY going to finance to book value. They really don't care if you think the book is low.
The loan on a car like this will be for a shorter term than a new car, and higher interest. The payments will be comparable to a much newer (or brand new) vehicle.
You're not gonna get top dollar.
Sorry for misleading everyone, I guess I should've asked what I should ask for the car optimistically rather than the actual value. I appreciate all the input, and I wish I had more time to do the necessary maintenance. If I have issues selling it, I'll have to make the time and do the cooling system/bushings.
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