Waterpump lifespan

So Hive, what is a normal lifespan on a water pump?

I don't have any overheat issues, my truck runs at 190 all the time, but I have noticed when the rpm's go up (say on a downshift to pass) the temp will drop a bit. It used to run 186 all the time, but adding a trans cooler bumped it up a little.

No timing belt, so its never been opened up and changed. I'm at 225k now. Toyota 4.0 V6

I've never had one live past 200k. I'm guessing that your engine is similar to my Chevy 5.3. That one was replaced due to leaking past the shaft. Are you saying temp goes up at idle or down during acceleration?

Its a toyota 4.0 V6.

Temp is steady at 190 ish unless I really get on it to pass, then it will drop a couple degrees.

Pepvancezone re-manufactured? Weeks.

If it's in a 4.2 V8 Jaguar, lifespan is about 30 miles...

22R's go about 100K. The more modern Toyotas, well, I've never actually had one go out. Knock on wood. I replace them every other timing belt.

Toyotas seem to go until the timing belt is replaced. That's only because it makes sense to do it than.

My 1988 323 1.6i went 410,000 miles and was still going strong when I junked the car. I've also had them go out at 89,000 so (duh) YMMV.

The stamped steel impellers do have a tendency to dissolve if the coolant isn't changed often enough.

NEALSMO wrote: Toyotas seem to go until the timing belt is replaced. That's only because it makes sense to do it than.

No TB to change on mine.

If it worries you, replace it. Aisin WPT802 (probably OEM) runs just about $80, getting it direct from Toyota (part 1610009471) will put you back $140-ish.

In reply to SEADave:

Not sure it if worries me or not. I just noticed the temp drop on higher RPM's and thought it was a little odd.

When water pumps go bad, they start leaking. What you describe is not the water pump. If it used to not do that but does now, you might look at flushing the system out, replacing the radiator, making sure the fans work, replace the thermostat, etc.

Dr. Hess wrote: When water pumps go bad, they start leaking. What you describe is not the water pump. If it used to not do that but does now, you might look at flushing the system out, replacing the radiator, making sure the fans work, replace the thermostat, etc.

Thanks, I wont worry about it then. Its not leaking. I am due for a coolant change and flush, and likely a new rad....

Yeah, I would guess it's a block pressure thing. Higher revs = more coolant flow and higher block pressure, and the tstat will only respond so quickly. A few degrees of temperature change during load transients is nothing to worry about. There's a reason most gauges are majorly damped - those small variations happen all the time, and it generally stability is taken to mean that everything is working properly.

We recently replaced the water pump in our '08 Highlander, 3.5 V6. It had 158k miles on it. It was replaced, not because of temperature issues or leaks. It merely communicated it's impending failure verbally. Went will all Toyota parts. Changed all the idler pulleys and belt too so we wouldn't need to deal with those issues later. Parts from Toyota were around $500. The idler pulleys cost more than the water pump.

113k miles and 38 years on my original waterpump in my wagon. 194k on the original water pump in my truck, 145k on my wifes saturns original pump. I tend to have good luck with water pumps lasting forever.

I usually dont worry about it unless im having flow issues.

Did my 4.0 equipped XJ about 6 weeks ago at 151,xxx. Was dripping just slightly from the weep hole for a few weeks, then left work one day to find a massive puddle of coolant under the Jeep, which then proceeded to lose about another 1.5-2 gallons on the way home (based on the volume of distilled water I had to add on the way.) That was a fun commute.

That is almost like asking, how long is a piece of string.

My Ford E150 with the 4.2 V6, still had the original Ford water pump on it when I sold it. It had well over 400K miles on it.

If it's not broken, don't fix it. The aftermarket stuff won't last near as long.

I've had one go 340,000 and was fine when the car was junked due to body rust... If it's not leaking out the weep hole leave it be OEM last the longest.

Depends. I've been servicing white block Volvos since they came out, and I was shocked as anything to have the third pump of my career fail.

Toyota, in general, gets one with a timing belt, because Toyotas red antifreeze leaves behind red crystals that make every pump they have ever built look like its leaking badly.