Anybody ever run one on a street car? How would one go about using one in an uncommon application? I see lots of well built Vintage and Production cars running these things. How would one go about adapting one to something like a Rover V8 and Rover 5 speed if you can't just make a phone call and buy the parts?
They make a racket at a stop light, or idling, with clutch released out of gear,not really am improvement on a street car
In reply to tr8todd :
I have quite a bit of formula car and sports racer experience with servicing Tiltons. Do not do it for a street car. I bet the Rover application is available off the shelf, but do not. It is not the noise that makes it bad. What makes it bad for the street is the fact that they are rapidly destroyed by any level of slip. You need to spin your wheels at every standing start. They over heat and warp very easily, and the sintered bonze facing on the driven discs peels off and piles up. I could make one last several seasons on a car that my customer needed to replace after every event because he would not spin his tires on the way to grid. Just a couple of slips in the paddock with a mild engine that would pull at 1200 rpm with a little chirp from a sudden clutch drop.
I have the triple street version on the ACR. It is progressive and you can use it on the street. But it is NOISY and when it grabs it does not let go period. I cannot imagine a scenario when you would use one when a normal off the shelf clutch will work. They are expensive though like way expensive for most applications. 7-9K give or take.
You can rebuild them for 10-20% of the new cost which is nice but there is a limit to it.
Quartermaster makes a twin disk 7.25" unit that is OK on the street, I would think Tilton would have one that is similar. I have something like 12k street miles on mine and have driven it on and off the trailer and while it doesn't like it, it works fine.
There are plates for the 7.25 Tilton assemblies that are more streetable than the sintered bronze, but they require the removal of one floater plate (from the triple disc setups). I think they refer to them as rally discs or something similar (about ~$200 a pair).
The biggest issue MAY be the higher clamp load on the discs results in lots of thrust load when the clutch is disengaged (pedal down). That may result in faster thrust bearing wear issues. Also the need to get a quick engagement does present problems in cars with a bit of power, since you wind up with tire slip and or a really aggressive launch in traffic. Even with the old,hard tires on my 300hp-2000lb car the launch creates lots of tire dust and still whips your neck pretty good. I am considering the conversion to the Rally disc setup when it comes apart again.
For the use on non-typical applications, you could have a button flywheel cut for the clutch, which gets bolted behind a flexplate. That is the direction I went with my Lexus 1UZ-FE engine. Flex plate from the automatic and the button flywheel (7lbs) with the triple plate tilton, in front of a Richmond gear 6-speed. It's overkill but adds one more level of "theft protection" to the car. I have threatened to teach my nephew how to drive a car with a manual transmission using this package.
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