Thanks for the offer! Buy I'll likey buy either Weds TC105N or Gramlights in 17x9.
I'll likely focus more on Auto-X since it's a new car and there is much less of a chance of hurting it with 8 60 second runs a day vs 5 20 minute sessions.
Why do you say it isn't reliable enough?
Vracer111 wrote:Mr_Clutch42 wrote: IMO, the stock wheels don't look good enough for the car to be lowered at all. I would say to skip the header and just go straight to a turbo or supercharger, but you said you wanted to autocross in STX. I would go with 17"x8" or 17"x9" wheels with sticky tires in the biggest size that will fit under the fenders. Next season, I would get a good set of coilovers or Koni yellow/Blistein sports and Ground Control sleeves.Stock wheels are also on the heavy side at nearly 21 lbs for a 17x7 wheel... The wheels I originally got for track are under 16 lbs each and are 17x8. My daily's are 17x7.5 and 17lbs with a +40mm offset. z31maniac, since I really don't track my car anymore (frankly the car is not reliable enough to chance it) I have no use for my track wheel set. Kosei K4R, 17x8 with a +36mm offset are available if you are interested.
How much?
z31maniac wrote: Thanks for the offer! Buy I'll likey buy either Weds TC105N or Gramlights in 17x9. I'll likely focus more on Auto-X since it's a new car and there is much less of a chance of hurting it with 8 60 second runs a day vs 5 20 minute sessions. Why do you say it isn't reliable enough?
I second the comment about reliability. It's a lot of little E36 M3.
The truth is that it might be more perception that reality that the car is not reliable. The new direct injection has some injector seal flaws that appear to be immediately fatal to the engine if and when they occur. Nobody really understands it and Toyota pretty much denies it. I suspect they see it as a cash generator once the cars are out of warranty. The fuel pump makes mystery noises that Toyota does not seem to be able to come to grips with. Nobody is sure if the noise is benign or not. Toyota has said that is is harmless. If you drive one in winter, you get the impression that the side-glass is going to fail every-time you get in or our of the car. Cold weather testing most likely never made it past turning on the AC. In order to hit the weight and handling targets, it was designed as a delicate car. Stock, I don't think it has the brakes to be a drive and arrive and drive home track-day car.
The other thing to consider is that the car is being compared to the Miata. The Miata has pretty much established itself as an anvil when it comes to reliability and ability to absorb abuse. Like I said, perception does play a part.
Have I mentioned how the driving experience allows you to not care about any of the above?
z31maniac wrote: Thanks for the offer! Buy I'll likey buy either Weds TC105N or Gramlights in 17x9. I'll likely focus more on Auto-X since it's a new car and there is much less of a chance of hurting it with 8 60 second runs a day vs 5 20 minute sessions. Why do you say it isn't reliable enough?
I tracked it one month after I purchased it and it was broken in. Everything was fine until the second session when the car had engine light come on and was running really rough. I forget the exact code pulled (P0019 I believe), but it was for cylinder bank 1 issue. Anyways co-worker had OBDII scanner so we cleared code and ran fine for rest of the sessions, chalked it up to running on track being weird on cars.
So no issues for the next 2 1/2 years of only daily driving then I had check engine light come on with same code from just street driving in the middle of summer...and traction control/stability control couldn't be defeated anymore (how I normally drive every time with systems 'disabled'...), engine light wouldn't stay on fully though but progressively got worse and stayed on long enough that I could bring it in to the dealership and have it covered under warranty. Ended up being faulty computer...after replacement car seemed much better. All right good to go!
Then I went to the Texas 86 meet this past August, not even a month after the warranty work, and had the same check engine light come on again... traction control wasn't defeatable (not good from my previous experience on track when I accidentally left it on one session.) I will say we were pushing it in the canyons and the engine oil temp reached 240+ degrees... so it's most likely stemming from both an oil pressure and heat management issue inherent with the car. The error code only lasted for the duration of the trip back though... 
In its place afterwards though I had a different code (P0351), which occurs more regularly now, that most likely is pointing to the bank 1 coil that guys who regularly track say to treat as a REGULAR annual consumable from thermal breakdown if you track the car with any frequency. At least it doesn't affect traction/stability selection. Just get the car warmed up and above 215 then step on the gas at a low rpm to load the engine...engine light on. Of course it goes off rather quickly before I have a chance to get it to the dealer and have them see its on so it can be taken care of under warranty (which is running out of time/mileage soon)...
The car runs too hot and the engine bay is sealed up really well...so if you autocross or track your primary concern should be managing your oil temp/pressure and getting heat out of the engine bay. Bank 1 Coil is right next to the header collector...so it needs special attention, and anything you can do to vent the air out of the engine bay would be a good thing. Run better/thicker oil as well to combat oil pressure loss at higher temps at high rpms.
The car is a great daily driver if you drive conservatively... but stock it is not as advertised for track/autocross use or really spirited daily driving. Your mods should first focus on making it reliable/managing the heat issue. Of course if you don't see ambient air temps of 90-100 for nearly half of the year that would go a long way to help too... loves this coldish weather now. Treat the car like a turbo...it needs a lot of heat management to make it reliable under track/autocross use! Get use to seeing 220-230+F oil temps daily driving otherwise... My daily routine (which I've done for nearly 3 years now after realizing how hot that engine bay is) involves putting the hood up after pulling into the garage - which is great this time of the year... a heated garage! LOL
Oh one more thing, the Scangauge II is a useful device! Just wish we could get oil pressure from it with this car... will need to break down and get an oil pressure gauge (need one in the 150 psi range to capture full range for this car...)
Just be cautious once oil temps get in the 220+F range... oil pressure must be getting on the low side for spirited driving above that. Of course I see 220+ degrees daily driving - I'm switching back to more resilient oil this next change!
I heard the headers + exhaust make the thing pretty noisy for a daily.
rotard wrote: How much?
PM'd
Harvey wrote: I heard the headers + exhaust make the thing pretty noisy for a daily.
Just add turbo and you won't care...
How about wheels/tires and a rear swaybar and call it a day? I think they look good not lowered.
Vracer111 my thought was ceramic coated exhaust + oil cooler?
z31maniac wrote: Vracer111 my thought was ceramic coated exhaust + oil cooler?
...and oil pressure/temp gauges...and open up the fender vents to make them functional vents...
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