In reply to mad_machine:
That would only be a problem if I lifted it, right?
In reply to mad_machine:
That would only be a problem if I lifted it, right?
In reply to codrus:
NoPermitNeeded wrote: I've acquired a 1974 Super Beetle and I want to do something with it. I am pretty young and want to get into hot rodding and working on cars..... On another note, the car also doesn't run do to the stupid seat belt sensor relay thingamabob they added in '74. Any help with that would be awesome.
You have Peter Frampton as your avatar and you working on Super Beetle? I am not sure you are that young. 
Regarding the seat belt interlock, there was service bulletin that went out to dealers in the 70's the specified how to solder a jumper across two of the pins on the relay to bypass it. My parents had a '74 Beetle. The interlock kept causing problems. My dad got copy of the bulletin from the dealer and did the jumper. He then put it the Bentley service manual he had fr the car. Years later I sort of inherited the car. I has looking through the manual and for the sheet with bypass instructions. Unfortunately, I don't have it now.
Keep it air cooled. Lots of people stroke the 1600 for some pretty respectable numbers. As a bit of nostalgia, I love these. When I was growing up my family had a super beetle ('74 maybe?), a VW bus (which was pretty much always broken), a Mazda truck, and a civic when they were stil called the cvcc. No wonder my automotive tastes gravitate towards the small light tin of the early 80s.
I'm about to order the wires and spade connectors. I read that I need a jumper wire with male spades at each end, can anyone just confirm that for me real quick?
As soon as I order them and get home from school I will start a build thread for this hunk.
Superbeetlesonly or Superbeetles are what you are looking for
NoPermitNeeded wrote: I'm about to order the wires and spade connectors. I read that I need a jumper wire with male spades at each end, can anyone just confirm that for me real quick? As soon as I order them and get home from school I will start a build thread for this hunk.
What are you wiring? The headlights, the dash, ignition, starter?
I've never seen a wire set that intentionally made you put a jumper in. At least for a production car.
In reply to NoPermitNeeded:
Did you read the link I posted? You're removing a relay, which typically has 1/4" male connectors built into it. So you'd need two 1/4" male spade connectors to bypass the relay.
No need to order them, just hit up the local parts store for some connectors and wire. Nothing fancy.
For Alfa: This is to bypass a rather short-sighted attempt at safety from the Germans. It prevents the engine from starting unless the seat belt is buckled. Since there's likely a law governing this in every state in the country, on top of general common sense. I don't see where this is an issue. Not too mention, the damned car is over 30 years old and any safety is merely coincidental and completely personal responsibility at this point.
In reply to Stefan (Not Bruce):
Oh, that. We had a Vega that did that. But never modified it.
In reply to Stefan (Not Bruce):
I read the link, it was super helpful. I just wanted to make sure exactly what I was doing
my biggest issue with cutting up a bug is how few are left. For a vehicle design where they literally built millions of them for decades, there are damn few of them still running about.
A beetle I saw on the road this summer was the first one on the road I have seen in years. I am much liable to see a Running TR6, MGB, or even a old saab than I am to see an AC beetle
Bring it to "stage zero" and just enjoy it.
I see a running old bug at least once a month in the wild.
But I am in DC and have spotted a running Yugo and actually saw someone driving a 2CV on the beltway a month or so back (definition of BRAVE).
Get it running right before you look at upgrades. Avoid too much scope creep, but if parts need to be replaced, then consider an improved part.
Once you have it running perfectly and reliably, drive the hell out of it. Then look at the small things to make it more useful.
For instance, my Bugeye, I am focused on getting it running. Its going to run with stock suspension and stock unboosted drum brakes. Then, once I have it running, I will dive into improvements.
You are at the rebuild carbs, change all the fluids, grease all the things, find and fix the gremlins stage. Dont get too far ahead of yourself. Enjoy the journey.
In reply to NoPermitNeeded:
I have one of those stupid seat belt sensor relays, let me know if you are still in need. I also have front and rear seats that are in pretty good shape, shipping might be a bit difficult...
I too started out with a '74 super. It started as a restoration project and eventually got a 12A wankel transplant with the help of a Kenedy Engineered adapter kit.
There is a ton of fun to be had with the aircooled engines and they aren't any more complicated than a lawn mower. If I were to do it all over again I would probably just do microsquirt and a junkyard turbo setup. You can upgrade heads, pistons, and cylinders in a weekend. Or save up some coin and build a proper turbo engine with a forged crank to swap in as time and $$ permits. It's not that the rotary engine wasn't worth it, just a lot of downtime for an impatient younger me.
As far as building a baja or rally-X beetle it's always pointed out that the front struts are the weak link. I think that a trip to the junkyard with a tape measure would solve that. Find a big heavy strut car/van that has slightly longer struts that will fit (or could be made to fit) the beelte knuckle. Brace the strut towers well and beat the hell out of it.
Another vote for the Baja bug. That way you can stop the interior and bedline it without it looking ridiculous
RXBeetle wrote: There is a ton of fun to be had with the aircooled engines and they aren't any more complicated than a lawn mower. If I were to do it all over again I would probably just do microsquirt and a junkyard turbo setup. You can upgrade heads, pistons, and cylinders in a weekend. Or save up some coin and build a proper turbo engine with a forged crank to swap in as time and $$ permits. It's not that the rotary engine wasn't worth it, just a lot of downtime for an impatient younger me.
I had a 2.0 type 4 in the back of mine. I had to hack up the sheetmetal to make it fit as there were not the Porsche style cooling shrouds for it back then. With dual weber 40s, a lumpy cam, and a mostly straight through exhaust.. I could spin the rear wheels through 3rd gear... I chickened out at 90.. but the car was still accelerating
In reply to mad_machine:
Given that VWs ran trans am, I wonder if any put the 2.0 in...,
But getting a solid car, and the moving to the vw 2.0 seems like a good path.
Super Beetle is not as good for a Baja as a Standard Beetle because of the strut front suspension. Better for a street car than an off roader. The rear suspension from a 944 is a bolt on proposition, pretty much. I remember reading an article about a Super with a type IV motor racing a 911 and handing the Porsche its ass, just sayin'.
In reply to alfadriver:
I've got a disassembled 2.0 porsche motor in my garage. Doing the swap right costs a lot more than its really worth though.
In reply to NoPermitNeeded:
I just want to be sure you are aware of this thread wherein lots of Air Cooled VW parts are being offered.
Toebra wrote: Super Beetle is not as good for a Baja as a Standard Beetle because of the strut front suspension. Better for a street car than an off roader. The rear suspension from a 944 is a bolt on proposition, pretty much. I remember reading an article about a Super with a type IV motor racing a 911 and handing the Porsche its ass, just sayin'.
I did that.. my one and only street race. kid in HS had a 73 911T.. he used to constantly put down my raggedy looking beetle.. until I stomped him from a light
I had an article by Chris Fortune from VW Trends in mind, actually.
Chris Fortune in 1999 said: By Chris Fortune May 1999 When it comes to performance, the name that comes to mind is Porsche, not Volkswagen. The racers in the German Käfer-Cup have taken this otherwise normal reaction to the limits. Dr. Josef Gerold, in conjunction with racecar builder Rolf Holzapfel, has taken this notion over the edge and built the most awesome race Bug ever to hit Germany's racetracks. Even though this Bug breaks the norm of even a W4 Käfer-Cup racer, what is of interest here is its performance in comparison to a well-known performance car - the Porsche Carrera RS in race trim! So, which one is better, a Bug on steroids or a Porsche-Cup racer? Dr. Gerold loves air-cooled machines. He is also the proud owner of a race-prepared Porsche Carrera RS with the Porsche-Cup race package. This machine features a gutted interior with only a roll-cage and race seat. The suspension is set up for competing in Porsche-Cup races. Power comes from a 194 kW 3.6-litre flat six. Its combat weight comes in at 1,210 kilograms, resulting in a weight-to-power ratio of 6.24 kg per kW. By now, Porsche lovers are smiling at an anticipated Porsche victory. Dr. Gerold, prior to the head-to-head shoot out, was convinced that the Bug would definitely compete with the Porsche (laughter from the Porsche corner). So, let's meet Dr. Gerold's Bug. The Type 1 started its life as a '71 Super Beetle. Rolf Holzapfel installed suspension components from a Porsche 944, and a 911 5-speed tranny. Holzapfel opted for a very solid 2.9-litre Type IV engine, producing 169 kW at 6,500 rpm to propel this machine to warp speeds. Internally vented and cross-drilled brake rotors from a 911 and large four-piston Brembo callipers are in charge of scrubbing off excess speed. In full combat set-up, this Bug tips the scales at a scant 805 kg. That comes to 4.76 kg per kW. So, what are our Porsche friends saying now? The battle of the boxers took place at the Motodrom of the Hockenheim-ring. The Porsche took to the acceleration test first. Using slicks, it accelerated to 100 km/h in exactly five seconds. Can you hear the Porsche fans gritting their teeth? Both racers were running nose to nose at 140 km/h. The Porsche's better aerodynamics took over beyond 160 km/h. The true test of a racecar is not only how fast it accelerates, but also how fast it can run the track. The Porsche was the first on the track, taking it in a somewhat civilised manner. The slicks help the car's stability when it's driven to the edge. After several laps around the short track at Hockenheim, the Porsche laid down a best lap time of 1 minute 9.48 seconds. The race Bug is a pure racecar and behaves that way. Once the engine hits 4,000 rpm, the Bug takes off like a missile. The awesome brakes (designed for a the much heavier Porsche) allow the much lighter Bug to brake 30 to 40 metres later into a corner than its Zuffenhausen cousin. Dr. Gerold says that the Bug's road manner is comparable to a go-cart. Even though the slicks allow tremendous curve speeds, smooth driving is required. Jerky movements are immediately punished by four-wheel drifts, which lead to violent fishtailing. But enough suspense. After running a few lead-foot laps around the course, Dr. Gerold recorded a time of 1 minute 8.70 seconds. The Porsche corner is screaming in disbelief. Then again, Dr. Gerold does have the best race Bug money can buy.
I'm putting a 230hp Acura V6 in mine.
Preserving the VW style rear suspension, albeit with 944 Aluminum trailing arms. A few months back I bought a couple of $20K 996 911s. Had I known that you can get parts cars of those for $6Kish, I might have bought one for a donor and had 295hp and saved my rear floor, and maybe AWD. Then again, those 996 engines are pretty heavy. Heavier than an LS1, which is a cool swap for a 996. But I am philosophically opposed to engine adapters so that wouldn't work for me.
Kartoffelbrei said:Bring it to "stage zero" and just enjoy it.
Please do this
not sure how much money you have......
but if there is an autocross around you thats a good start to learn car control ,
maybe put some junkyard 944 brake parts on it ,
as far as the motor , cheap way is a pair of used Kadron carbs , 009 Bosch distributor and a free flowing exhaust , that will give you some more RPMs , a nice sound as you learn to control the car ,
Have Fun
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