What to look at when test driving WRX Wagon

I'm really just going to see if it's everything I hoped for.

I have read some pointers online at various websites "NASIOC" for example. It's a 2003 with just 68k miles on it. I have made a list of things to look at but if you can add or correct me, I would greatly appreciate it. From the photos it looks pretty stock but you never know.

Here's a link if you would like to check it out. It's $10k though

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?ownerId=64171087&searchRadius=0&listingId=391776952

Things to check: Any evidence of prior tuning, mods (air intake, turbo heat shield there?, stock exhaust) Transmission (griding, throw-out bearing) Maintenance records?

Rust. Rear quarter panel, rear subframe etc.

Check to see if the front control arm and fuel leak recalls have been done.

Rear quarter panel was the first thing I checked in the photos, but you can never really tell until you are there. Obviously sub-frame will need a good look too.

Saw the recall on the carfax, good idea.

I was going to say the nearest exit, but that actually looks pretty clean.

I have nothing to add except I love love love how those look in bugeye wagon form.

Off-topic: I test-drove a peanut headlight one and almost bought it. It would've taken me some time to get used to the turbo engine vs the na BMW e36 I was driving at the time (blipping the throttle for heel-toe produced TOTALLY different results from the engine in the two vehicles).

I owned a 2003 WRX. Bought it with 13K on it. Exceptionally clean. Transmission, transmission, transmission if the PO used 2nd and 3rd a lot. These are the gears you will be using the turbo most. I think PO auto crossed it since after purchase I noticed noise in transmission and shifter would moved forward on deceleration. Trans did not fail while I owned it but noise and movement did increase with miles. Other than that I really like the car. One of the many that I have owned that I would buy again.

See if they have maintenance records, the 205's are notorious for randomly eating oil. I blew a motor at 19k on my 92x because of that. Make sure 3rd gear is nice and smooth and look hard for mods. Make sure the engine doesn't have any ticking and that the oil level is good. Otherwise have fun, the sonic yellow is a rare color and I'm a sucker for bugeyes!

I love the Sonic Yellows. Check for blow-by (pull the oil fill cap and put your hand over it while the car is idling; it shouldn't be blowing back at you aggressively).

It's normal for the gearbox to be hard to get back into 1st gear while rolling, especially when cold. Don't force it.

Another place the bugeyes like to rust is the rear dogleg of the front fenders, near the bottom. It traps leaves and muck and rots out around the lower mounting bolt. Also check the windshield frame and all the frameless windows for good fit.

The unpainted side skirts are normal on this generation of WRX, and actually a good thing, because paint shops traditionally try to paint them when they fix a wrecked car. Same goes for the black strip in the 'mouth' of the bumper, which is intact here.

From the engine bay: the cover for the boost control solenoid is still there, and it's usually broken or lost when people 'upgrade' to a manual boost controller or similar. Everything looks pretty normal, but look for missing fasteners and cracks in the rubber hoses. Especially check the short rubber hose between the base of the intercooler and the intake manifold throttle body, as that perishes with age and introduces a nasty almost-invisible leak that's hard to track down unless you know to look for it.

Also look for any missing heat shields - give away that mods have been done and then possible un-done.

$10K for a Bugeye in Ohio - Better be spotless - look real careful for rust.

I don't think I have EVER seen a Sonic Yellow Wagon!

Valve cover gaskets tend to leak on the 2.0 and cause smoke as the oil hits the headers. Easy fix but something to look for.