What was Ford Thinking!!!!! Rusted Drag Links 2000 Expedition (With Photos)

This is just nuts. These locate the rear end of the truck. Even better they are covered in a plastic coating so unless you are really looking for this it will just look like a bit of surface rust until you poke it with a screwdriver!!!!!

I am surprised that this has not resulted in some accidents. Have one or both of these let go while at speed and bad things could happen.

AND

The bolt on the drivers side was put in before the gas tank. This means getting it out is a serious PITA. Why dont they just put the bolt in from the other side? It would make changing these things not require that you do one of the two following options.

1 remove the gas tank (saves bolt but a serious PITA)

1. Cut bolt with sazall (can not use a torch as you are with in an inch of the plastic gas tank). Obviously this means you have to get a new bolt.

I have been a ford guy for a long time but this makes me wonder just what they are thinking. Or if they are really thinking.

Then there is the replacement cost. dealer cost is about 150-200 each. Aftermarket box tube serviceable units are about 550 a set.

I am thinking of cutting on of them apart removing the center section. Then take a piece of 1x2 tube steel. use a hole saw and make the proper cut at each end. Bevel the edges and weld together. I would do one at a time that way I can use the 2nd one as a jig to get the length correct. Using the bolts to hold the end pieces in place while fitting the center section. The overall length of the par is not absolutely critical but making sure that the pair are of equal length is. The only thing stopping me is that I am not sure how to protect the bushings while welding.

I bet I can make a set for less than $30

What are you complaining about? Those are 11 years old already.

I had an '07 Liberty that folded one in half. (To work on. I wouldn't own one of those if someone paid me to do it)

Welcome to the modern automobile.

It's out of warranty, why should they be concerned?

If you're making your own, why not buy new bushings while you're at it. Then you won't have to go back in again in a couple years. The old ones are 11 years old already.

Shawn

Just when I finish eating crow and decide to take a flier on a domestic after 35 years, you come along with this...

And I will be driving the car year round with salt and all!

In reply to NOHOME:

Don't worry. Subaru just issued a recall regarding front control arms rusting to the point of collapse, and I've seen Maximas still being paid for that had carpet falling through where floor should be.

wonder if you would be better off going tubular?

If you drop the tank now.. might as well do the fuel pump while you are there.. They inevitably fail when the tank is full and you need to drop it anyway

I am going to try my had at making a set with the old bushings and if it goes well and now that I have the bolts out and reversed swapping in a new set with new bushings will be a 30 min job. I just measured things up and drew up the pieces I will need cut from the tube steel in AUTOCad. I am going to email it to my local fab/welding shop then it is just a mater of cutting the old ones apart cleaning them up and welding them to the new center sections.

$150 ???? This should be a $30 part from Dorman. I looked at rock auto and it was a no go. Not stocked.

+1 for tubular

Oh crap, another thing to check on the rustwagon

It really is a simple part. Drill two 2 1/2" holes on the 2" wide side of 1"x2" 1/8" wall tube steel at 20 3/8" on center.

I want to get 200K from this truck but I have a feeling one day I will come out and find a big pile of rust in the driveway.

I'm betting the bolts were in that way to keep the tip of the bolt from puncturing the tank in a crash.

I'm surprised to see that stuff rust like that. +1 for building them. It shouldn't take long. A little POR15 and they should last longer than the rest of the truck.

I have 210K on my 97 already and its in Ohio, so hold out it might surprise you

I hate to be THAT guy, but those aren't drag links. Those are control arms, drag links are in the steering system.

DrBoost wrote: I hate to be THAT guy, but those aren't drag links. Those are control arms, drag links are in the steering system.

Ok I learned something!!

I am actually thinking of cold galv then prime, paint and then rubberized undercoating.

DrBoost wrote: I hate to be THAT guy, but those aren't drag links. Those are control arms, drag links are in the steering system.

I think you really want to be that guy

Welcome to New England,Dean! Seriously is this surprising to you? Not me,this damn salt is hell on vehicles. You have been here in the salt box for long enough to not be surprised by this.

Been here most of my life and I have never seen critical suspension parts rust like that. My RX7's were not this bad... . . Well ok my 84 was bad but it was 16 years older.

Wow! Move South!

My friend's 2000 expedition has this problem, driver side has already rusted in two near the front and the passenger side is barely holding on.

This sort-of surprises me.
Surprising that it happened, no. To a domestic, yes.

All of my Japanese cars have been 100x as rust prone as my domestics have been. Even the not-so-old ones.

If you can fab them easily, go for it. Personally, if I were to fab them, I'd put in new bushings. I would strongly consider just buying some aftermarket kit and being done with it though.

Just don't cover them in bacon OEM style.

i bet they were powdercoated because it was cheap and easy- and it's one reason i'm not a fan of powdercoating parts. paint just seems to "bite" into the metal better and doesn't flake off.

also, it's a truck.. which means it's supposed to have leaf springs.. they rarely fall apart like that..