Edit: This applies to TJs and older, JKs are a foreign animal to me.
Lift Kits are a can of worms, brand loyalty plays a big role, and Jeep folks are generally pretty opinionated. So one of us telling you what sucks and what doesn't, we aren't likely to agree with another.
That said, I wouldn't put a Rough Country anything on my Jeep. I've seen their leafs turn S shaped, and their TJ springs are so soft the Jeep flops around more than it actually articulates, they can make highway driving into a scary amusement park ride. I agree with Dr. Boost about OME being good, less so about BDS, unless they've stepped up their game the last few years. I personally like Rubicon Express, I put a 3.5" Super Ride kit on SWMBO's XJ. I have/had friends with all kinds of off the shelf suspension kits on their Jeeps, some better than others, do your research and form an opinion.
There are some things to pay attention to though. For coil spring Jeeps, a 3" lift is at the bleeding edge of okay for the stock control arms. With 3" springs the control arm angle is pretty steep, and you get into caster angle issues. You'll find that a lot of the flex in the suspension is actually the stamped steel control arms twisting, as they bind, not so much bushings actually giving. If the lift kit still has the stock control arms and it's over 3" avoid, or plan to fix it.
Once you get 4" or more it should really be a "long arm" kit, where the control arms are replaced with longer arms, and their frame attachment point is moved further from the axle to retain proper geometry.
If it's a street driven Jeep, 4" lift is about as much as I'd be comfortable with. Generally a 4" lift will fit 35" tires. You're getting into the expensive and difficult to balance tire sizes. If you really need larger tires than that, I'd start looking at ways to remove sheet metal before raising my center of gravity any more with a suspension lift.
Coil spring spacers suck, I have them on Mufffin, dumb idea some college kid (me) had as a cheap way to fit larger tires. I could understand using a small or adjustable spacer to level out ride height with a full suspension kit, but as a sole means of increasing the height of the vehicle, it's a terrible idea.
Pay attention to the supporting modifications. If you lift a coil sprung Jeep more than a couple inches, you're going to have to do something about the track bar. It's either going to need it's frame mounting point moved, or you're going to need a longer/adjustable track bar. The correct answer is adjustable track bar.
On leaf spring Jeeps, a lot of folks just move the spring from the bottom of the axle to the top, i.e. "spring over," it's a cheap easy way of getting a few inches of lift, however thick the axle tube and perch is, is how much lift you gain. It's a little harder on the OE springs, and can cause them premature wear as their bending/twisting with the axle below now, instead of on top as they were designed. There are aftermarket springs, and kits intended for spring over applications though.
Lift blocks plus spring over is a terrible idea, avoid.
I'd prefer to see longer springs and retain the factory spring under placement of the leaf springs.
Lift shackles aren't always necessary, if all of the Jeep's lift are from giant shackles on the springs, avoid or plan to remedy. You can gain a bit more articulation, and maintain proper geometry with some of the boomerang shackles, but stuff like those Teraflex Revolver shackles are a terrible idea. I've seen Revolvers bind, and compress off center half a dozen times, then you're steering with your rear axle too.
Regardless of what kind of Jeep, pay attention to the supporting mods. If it has a lift, why? What size tires? Are those tires okay to use with the axles on the Jeep? If it has larger tires has the gear ratio been adjusted, and to what? If it's a YJ/TJ and has more than 3" of lift does it have a slip yoke eliminator (SYE) on the transfercase and CV rear drive shaft? Have the brake hoses been extended properly if needed? Does it still have some form of anti sway bar, specifically on TJs? What shocks are on the Jeep, are they the proper length to accommodate the lift?
A cheap TJ lift, with short arms and crap geometry can easily make the Jeep into a tipod during a sharp turn on pavement or anywhere with good traction, having a locker in the rear exasperates the problem. I've experienced it a few times in my own Jeep, and have seen videos of folks actually flopping their Jeeps on the side in parking lots. Just another reason to have a quality lift with proper geometry.
As far as driving a lifted Jeep, if it's a quality kit, it should be livable. The center of gravity is higher, so it's no Miata hugging the corners, but it wasn't before the lift either. With the lift and larger tires comes more road noise, less fuel economy, more wear on parts, a hatred of low clearance parking decks, and you open yourself up to Napoleon Complex jokes.
That kind of turned into a novel.