As a hypothetical, if I was looking for a DD to almost never require (major) repairs or servicing, and didn't want it to be rattle/rustbox, what years/mileage/price range would I be looking for?
For instance - more than $5k, newer than 2005, less than 100k miles, etc.
I DD my Miata at the moment, and it honestly isn't giving me much trouble at all. However, it's uncomfortable to ride in, the wind noise is loud, and it isn't as clean as some Miatas are.
Might be picking up a primary DD this year that will serve as my "nice" car.
I've begun to realize from friend's situations that when your car repairs start to look like a car payment, you aren't saving actually saving any money by driving a beater.
1995-aka pre OBDII and $500-1,000, depending on the previous owner's neglect. I always gravitate toward Escort/Tracer wagons.
mndsm
UltimaDork
1/7/14 2:10 p.m.
I like Escorts and Corollas.. but the Toyota market here's gone a little nuts- my next dd/beater might be a BG protege, or another mx6... who knows. I bought the ms3 new... but that is no longer my ideal.
Almost any car will need some repairs/service at some point. The sweet spot is different for different people.
My choice was a '98 Saturn, with 100k miles. I has needed a few minor repairs (water pump, belt tensioner, muffler strap), and has had some other repairs due to me tinkering with it. At a $3K purchase price, it wasn't bad, and 40K miles later, I could probably still sell it for $2500. Its a car that's easy to work on when needed, but doesn't require work often.
To non-car people who don't want to even think about repairs, I currently recommend:
2002+ Toyota Camry with a 4 cyl to those who drive low-normal amounts
2004+ Toyota Prius to those who drive normal-high amounts
Prizm, 98-02, 2-3k, a lot of people don't know its a Toyota, just find one that isn't burning oil yet, run synthetic in it, and you're good to go. Try to buy one with a tach, the tach clusters(odometer reading are part of the swappable speedo sub assembly) are kinda hard to come by. Also, the Chevy variant got a Delco AC system, instead of Denso, and it is extremely cold.
Its even reasonably entertaining(for a Corolla) with fresh shocks and a manual, the 98 is about 100lbs lighter in the front end than the 97, on account of the 1ZZ engine. You could almost call the handling neutral.
I work on mine infrequently enough I can never immediately find the hood latch, hood is mostly open to put washer fluid in it, and maybe check the oil level.
Also consider things like storage since if its a DD you have another car and that other car will need parts becasue race car.
I would prefer something OBD-II, because then I can use my Actron scanner to get a definitive list of codes without counting a blinking MIL.
I have an 04 Dodge Stratus with 156k sitting in my yard I'm trying to buy for just more then scrap. Of course it needs brakes (they are metal to metal), a coolant tube bundle ($130@the dealer), and fix little odds and ends things known about those cars. Easily a $3k car when fixed. All for about $800 total including the car.
93EXCivic wrote:
92-00 Honda Civic.
These never seem to sell for that much less than their newer counterparts.
OSULemon wrote:
93EXCivic wrote:
92-00 Honda Civic.
These never seem to sell for that much less than their newer counterparts.
I paid $3000 for a 96, $2800 for the 93 I still have and under $4k for the 99 Si I just got. They are just much better cars IMHO then later ones and they are super easy to work on. Also as reliable as gravity.
93EXCivic wrote:
OSULemon wrote:
93EXCivic wrote:
92-00 Honda Civic.
These never seem to sell for that much less than their newer counterparts.
I paid $3000 for a 96, $2800 for the 93 I still have and under $4k for the 99 Si I just got. They are just much better cars IMHO then later ones and they are super easy to work on. Also as reliable as gravity.
You're right, I just checked around CL. I don't know why I thought that...
Maybe high schoolers trying to sell their cars last summer.
OSULemon wrote:
93EXCivic wrote:
OSULemon wrote:
93EXCivic wrote:
92-00 Honda Civic.
These never seem to sell for that much less than their newer counterparts.
I paid $3000 for a 96, $2800 for the 93 I still have and under $4k for the 99 Si I just got. They are just much better cars IMHO then later ones and they are super easy to work on. Also as reliable as gravity.
You're right, I just checked around CL. I don't know why I thought that...
Maybe high schoolers trying to sell their cars last summer.
I ran into the same problem when I was looking. Civics were on my list, but finding them for a reasonable price without body damage, rust, a gazillion miles, or terrible mods was not happening.
ProDarwin wrote:
I ran into the same problem when I was looking. Civics were on my list, but finding them for a reasonable price without body damage, rust, a gazillion miles, or terrible mods was not happening.
This, people only seem to buy $5000+ Hondas and drive them into the junkyard.
Kenny_McCormic wrote:
ProDarwin wrote:
I ran into the same problem when I was looking. Civics were on my list, but finding them for a reasonable price without body damage, rust, a gazillion miles, or terrible mods was not happening.
This, people only seem to buy $5000+ Hondas and drive them into the junkyard.
To be fair, Corollas and Prisms were pretty close. For what I paid for the Saturn, I was still looking at Corollas and Prisms with 180k miles, rear fender rust, body damage, no paint on the hood/roof, etc. Not quite as overpriced as the Civics, but definitely close.
Seems to vary by location, up in MI, you can get a solid Corolla at a fair price with some hunting, and a solid Prizm for less than that. Meanwhile there's always a ~96 civic or three with fist sized rust holes and 300k miles asking $1200.
Lease a new Fiesta for $99/mo (or whatever E36 M3box has the best lease today), throw it back at them when your 36 months are up. Total outlay? ~$3600 + tax and tags.
EDIT: 24 mos is $139/mo with 0 down right now.
In reply to Giant Purple Snorklewacker:
You forgot the full coverage insurance on a new car.
Kenny_McCormic wrote:
In reply to Giant Purple Snorklewacker:
You forgot the full coverage insurance on a new car.
You have to have insurance on any car. "Full" insurance on a Fiesta is going to be what? $400/yr?
as cheap as possible, and in as good of shape as possible... there really are too many variables, so you have to take each car as it is presented to you..
Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote:
Kenny_McCormic wrote:
In reply to Giant Purple Snorklewacker:
You forgot the full coverage insurance on a new car.
You have to have insurance on any car. "Full" insurance on a Fiesta is going to be what? $400/yr?
I can tell you not here. It's $70/mo for liability on my 95 Dakota. That would be <$30/mo everywhere else.
Kinda depends on how long you want to / plan on owning it. If you have a 5 year or so horizon, I'd say buy a 1-2 year old Mazda 3, Hyundai, Kia, Cruze or something for $10-15k and hold onto it.
Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote:
Lease a new Fiesta for $99/mo (or whatever E36 M3box has the best lease today), throw it back at them when your 36 months are up. Total outlay? ~$3600 + tax and tags.
EDIT: 24 mos is $139/mo with 0 down right now.
I was ready to dismiss any talk of a lease, but at 12k/year, that first deal is 0.10/mile in depreciation + fuel and insurance costs... that's actually not bad at all.
ProDarwin wrote:
Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote:
Lease a new Fiesta for $99/mo (or whatever E36 M3box has the best lease today), throw it back at them when your 36 months are up. Total outlay? ~$3600 + tax and tags.
EDIT: 24 mos is $139/mo with 0 down right now.
I was ready to dismiss any talk of a lease, but at 12k/year, that first deal is 0.10/mile in depreciation + fuel and insurance costs... that's actually not bad at all.
I'm not seeing $139/mo for 0 down. I see that rate with ~2300 due at signing, though.
Mileage HAS to be under 200,000kms (125,000miles). By that point, even with modern cars, they will have typically been abused/not properly maintained to the point where even reliable cars can start to see problems.
Imports (specifically japanese) are better than domestics (for the most part. they just hold up better, not necessarily last longer, its mainly if you want to avoid feeling like you are driving a penalty box).
And of course, it depends on what you need it for. You said daily driver, and don't seem to mind your Miata. Therefore, basically any compact japanese sedan or hatchback from 1995 until brand new will suit you. The hondas and toyotas will be your best bets and maintain value while delivering some of the best MPG.
A 4 door yaris hatchback may be right up your alley IMO as long as you don't need POWA!