I was doing a 6k service on a Montero and the wheels were stuck, I did the hammer trick and KNOCKED myself out.
I was doing a 6k service on a Montero and the wheels were stuck, I did the hammer trick and KNOCKED myself out.
Along the same line of problems - any tips for loosening a stuck brake rotor (no - there is no retaining screw)?
Ian F wrote: Along the same line of problems - any tips for loosening a stuck brake rotor (no - there is no retaining screw)?
Accept the fact that you're going to destroy the rotor and start beating on it. It'll come off. It might come off in teeny tiny pieces, but it'll come off.
mazdeuce wrote:Ian F wrote: Along the same line of problems - any tips for loosening a stuck brake rotor (no - there is no retaining screw)?Accept the fact that you're going to destroy the rotor and start beating on it. It'll come off. It might come off in teeny tiny pieces, but it'll come off.
BTDT many times. Use the biggest hammer you can fit in there and just whale away on it. One time the neighbor came over to see what the hell was going on after 45 minutes of pounding. Wear hearing protection. Really. When I get tired from the pounding, I use heat (MAPP torch), then resume the pounding.
What he said, especially about the hearing protection part. It's really loud
Trans_Maro wrote: Shotgun!
Anyone who has trouble with hammer bounce back does not know the proper way to swing a sledge hammer.
BFH
Ian F wrote: Along the same line of problems - any tips for loosening a stuck brake rotor (no - there is no retaining screw)?
Get a giant 2 jaw puller, draw it up tight, hit the rotor, couple more turns, hit the rotor, eventually it will pop off.
And in the end... I just got a bigger hammer. I win.
Kenny_McCormic wrote:Ian F wrote: Along the same line of problems - any tips for loosening a stuck brake rotor (no - there is no retaining screw)?Get a giant 2 jaw puller, draw it up tight, hit the rotor, couple more turns, hit the rotor, eventually it will pop off.
I'll try that next time... I'm not sure if I have a puller big enough, tho...
I wailed on the fother-mucker for an hour with a 3 lb sledge. In the rain. Eventually, I just said "F-it" and sacrificed a set of pads and installed them on the old rotors. This was at the same time the caliper bracket broke and I was forced to use my Spitfire as a DD for two days while waiting for a replacement. It stops well enough... after the pads wore into the rotor grooves... 
...I'll deal with it in the Spring and/or after I get the TDI back on the road.
we use a big deadblow at work, occasionally the torch to heat up really stuck on steel wheels
When I did roadside assistance I would back the locknuts off a couple turns, roll the car a foot or two and may the brake pedal or pull the hand brake. It worked almost every time.
BlueInGreen44 wrote:dj06482 wrote: Remember, they bounce back, especially when you're pounding on rubber tires...Seriously though, that's totally the kind of thing I tend to forget.
why would you be hitting the rubber tire when you are trying to get a corroded/rusted wheel to pop loose?
that just doesn't make any sense..
In reply to novaderrik:
A lot of people, myself included, aren't very good at swinging a hammer accurately.
Ian F wrote: I wailed on the fother-mucker for an hour with a 3 lb sledge. In the rain. Eventually, I just said "F-it" and sacrificed a set of pads and installed them on the old rotors.
A smaller lighter hammer that you can swing more rapidly will many times do a better job.
For stuck to hub I've had good luck putting the lug nuts back on a couple turns loose, putting that wheel back on the ground, and jacking the opposite wheel just barely off the ground. Then I can rock the car back and forth on the jack and let the weight of the car do the work for me.
Alternately, if one side is stuck the other probably will be too, so you could skip the jack, loosen lugs for both sides with the wheels on the ground and then get the car rocking side to side and break both loose at once.
Kenny_McCormic wrote: In reply to novaderrik: A lot of people, myself included, aren't very good at swinging a hammer accurately.
I remember this description of "the hammer" from a list of tools and their uses--
"The hammer is used as a sort of divining rod to determine the most expensive item to replace or repair in the vicinity of the item you were actually attempting to hit"
novaderrik wrote:BlueInGreen44 wrote:why would you be hitting the rubber tire when you are trying to get a corroded/rusted wheel to pop loose? that just doesn't make any sense..dj06482 wrote: Remember, they bounce back, especially when you're pounding on rubber tires...Seriously though, that's totally the kind of thing I tend to forget.
Because you don't want to destroy a nice wheel.
Getting a bigger hammer seems to be the main solution to these in the end.
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