What is the best way to remove them? As to not hurt wheel bearings.
Were you able to get the wheel off or are you in a pickle?
Splined, press in from the rear style or thread-in like BMW?
stan_d wrote: Splines press in from rear. I am installing new longer studs.
I cut them off and drive out the nub with center punch (because some are too long to fit as a whole).
I have never had an issue with this approach but - if they are the adjustable kind - tighten the nut to remove any play in the race at all before you start then re-adjust afterward.
Remove the hub and use a press, or rattle them out with an air hammer and hope you don't hurt anything.
a non-girly hit or two with a BFH pops them right out, an open ended lug nut flipped over and a washer with a good impact wrench puts the new one in..
I've used the BFH approach to remove wheel studs. I've also used the HF ball joint tool to remove studs on assembled strut top mounts since the hammer impact was just absorbed by the strut and spring.
http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/steering/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99849.html
Hocrest wrote: I've used the BFH approach to remove wheel studs. I've also used the HF ball joint tool to remove studs on assembled strut top mounts since the hammer impact was just absorbed by the strut and spring. http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/steering/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99849.html
Good idea. I thought mine already paid for itself splitting two ball joints in under a minute without damaging them.
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