Which Mercedes?

The number on the head is located around the #2 and #3 injector. The 7th and 8th digits are what you are looking for. The numbers are somewhat hidden behind "stuff", so it's hard to get a direct view and a flashlight often helps.

I run veggie oil in mine. It's great. I got 2700 miles out of my last full tank of diesel.

I assume you're not talking about the tank that is IN the car. Although if you had a 50+ gallon tank and got 50+ mpg that would be possible.

I have a two tank system. The stock 18 (?) gallon tank and a 12 gallon veggie tank. I have to start on diesel till the engine gets up to NOT (maybe 3 miles in the summer, 7 in the winter) then switch over to oil. About 1/2 mile from my destination I switch back to diesel. One tank of diesel will last quite a while.

Is a 300k mile om603 going to be totally worn out? Or is it reasonable to expect another 100k or so out of it before it dies if it was well taken care of. The one I found is supposedly in good shape (and cheap) but it has a lot of miles on it. Id be happy if it would last another 3 years, by then I would probably want a nicer car anyway. lol

Travis_K wrote: Is a 300k mile om603 going to be totally worn out? Or is it reasonable to expect another 100k or so out of it before it dies if it was well taken care of. The one I found is supposedly in good shape (and cheap) but it has a lot of miles on it. Id be happy if it would last another 3 years, by then I would probably want a nicer car anyway. lol

Mine has over 300K and I wouldn't be afraid to drive it anywhere...and it has the original dreaded #14 head. If compression is good and oil pressure is good, a well maintained one should have no problem making another 100K IMHO. They hold 9 quarts of oil. I've found here that it's cheaper to buy oil in gallon jugs when doing changes. The vacuum pump in the one you mentioned was replaced. That's typically about $300.

I went and looked at the w126 today, I kinda expected it to be ratty because it was so cheap, but it was worse tha I expected. The biggest problem was that the drivers seat was completely reclined and the adjustment no longer functioned so the car wasn't even drivable. If I got one would it be normal to be constantly fixing annoying electrical problems like that all the time? In addition to that, the engine didn't sound very good so i doubt I would have bought it anyway.

If I may jack your thread for a second...I have a line on a cheap W123 230 TE (wagon). Mechanically speaking, what could be requiring attention on a sub-$1K 230?

I would be hoping for Middle-Eastern-Taxi indestructibility, but I guess that may not be the case.

Mercedes of this vintage have the ceramic european style fuses. They suck...but will serve their purpose if the contact surfaces are kept clean. If the entire seat didn't work at all, it's probably just a fuse. If just the seat back didn't work, more likely a switch issue or a motor. Nice thing about the older diesels is that once started, the electrical system has little or nothing to do with the engine running. It shouldn't drop dead on the road due to electrical failure.

Engines will sound crappy if the injectors need to be rebuilt, IP timing is off/loose timing chain, or valves need to be adjusted on OM61X engines (OM602/3 engines don't need adjustment). Of course the engine could just be worn out, but the above items are more likely, especially if oil pressure is good and it started easily.

The W123 wagons are good cars, but like the W126s, they are OLD, so rubber components are deteriorated which, of course, includes suspension bushings, weatherstripping (causing leaks and RUST), and all the vacuum operated components like HVAC, door locks etc. Also, many of the wagons have self-leveling rear suspension (I don't remember which models) which can be a pain to diagnose/rehab if it needs attention. They can be converted to conventional springs, but it's still not a cheap fix. Aaaand, there's rust...

I bought a w126 300SD today. It has alot of miles (odometer stopped at 376k) but it has been maintained well and it started easily, and didnt smoke or make any weird noises. The only bad thing is it needs a front lower ball joint. Has anyone changed one before? I only have looked at it for a few minutes so far so idk how hard its going to be to change.

Congrats!

I don't have any experience with ball joints on those, but THIS forum is your friend. There is a ton of info there.

Pics coming soon, I hope?

I drove a 500 clk this weekend. All I can say is WOW.

I ended up picking up this 95 e320 wagon locally for a good price. It had a tranny rebuild, the AC works, main wiring harness was replaced, and a decent amount of other maintenance done. The head gasket is going to need to be replaced at some point. It has a couple oil leaks right now. I need to switch to regular oil. I really liked the exterior/interior combo. I got a new airbag wheel last week from my benz parts guy around the corner. We were talking about the relative costs of dropping in a C36 engine compared with redoing the head gasket. We will have to see.......Here are a few shots. I am going to get it cleaned up more this weekend. Hopefully, the weather here in CT will cooperate...

So YOU are the one that bought that! I was VERY seriously planning to look at that, but my schedule didn't allow. I figured the HG needed to be changed at that price, but it's as much a nuisance as anything as long as you keep it topped up...fairly common on that engine. Now I'm really jealous. Congrats!

Yea, I grabbed it! I had just sold my b13 se-r and had the cash ready to go. The owner was a nice guy and the car had been pretty well cared for. I got it for $1800.

David Hendy's shop is almost walking distance from my office. I picked up a huge stash of parts from him last Saturday. He was super helpful in going over everything on the car for me.

I need to get an alignment ASAP. I am going to switch out the synthetic mobil 1 to regular oil, change the coolant, change the brake fluid, get a new SLS filter and top off the hydraulic fluid. I need to order a valve cover gasket and front shock mounts. I have to pick up shifter bushings at the dealer and install along with a neutral safety switch I got from David.

The car is like a giant E30. Great visibility and lots of glass. I live in Norwalk and work in Stamford.

I still need to get some pictures of my W126. Its still running well, but it in serious need of front suspension work, it shakes really bad when you stop hard and it makes constant nasty noises. I have collected most of the parts, but I wont have time ti do anything with it until I finish school for the summer. If I had known how much a front suspension rebuild cost I honestly probably wouldn't have bought it (or at least payed that much for it), but other than that the car is pretty nice so i cant really complain.

For anyone who reads this who is looking at a OM617, make sure the oil cooler and lines are in good shape. The ones on my car are fine, but it can cost as much as $1300 just in parts (from the dealer, cheaper by alot elsewhere) to replace the cooler and lines, and a failed line means spun rod bearings unless you can get it shut down in less than 5 seconds after the line breaks.

great car, great buy!

Haven't been able to do anything with the nose, but at least the wheels are on. Thinkin' I might have to invest in some springs to lower it just a bit.