Wilwood calipers and aluminum Suspension pieces.
I have an 82 Starlet but It does have the front AE86 brakes, rotors, and strut.
What I'm looking for is simply a bracket that will bolt on and allow the use of the super light Wilwood calipers with stock rotors. I don't want to go with a full big brake kit due to it not really being needed in such a light car.
Does a bracket like this exist?
Secondly, is it advisable to make certain suspension pieces from a good solid aluminum? I was thinking of getting solid round AL bar, cut length, drill and tap the ends, and thread in heim joints. This would be for the rear four link bars.
You can certainly make your own brake brackets.
For the four link bars, you can buy tapped tubes specifically for this sort of purpose.
redvalkyrie wrote:
Secondly, is it advisable to make certain suspension pieces from a good solid aluminum? I was thinking of getting solid round AL bar, cut length, drill and tap the ends, and thread in heim joints. This would be for the rear four link bars.
Other than being hex bar rather than round (and including jam nuts where the joints thread in), that pretty much describes the aftermarket aluminum control arms I've got for my Jeep. They seem to be holding up fine and they're generally well liked by others, so I see no reason it wouldn't work. Just make sure the aluminum is thick enough around the threads.
Have you checked with these guys?
https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/ae86
Lots of neat stuff, but I don't see a stock sized caliper upgrade bracket.
On the latter question, I wouldn't. Get a threaded tube- you can get all sorts of sizes- look for swedged tube from jegs or summit.
Speedway was usually cheapest on the tubing, and Heim joints are totally a judgment call for $ vs perceived strength.
I've always read they heim joints have a short life when used for suspension pivots and are thus generally considered not suitable for street applications. I dunno how long "short" actually is, though.
Teh E36 M3 wrote:
Have you checked with these guys?
https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/ae86
Lots of neat stuff, but I don't see a stock sized caliper upgrade bracket.
On the latter question, I wouldn't. Get a threaded tube- you can get all sorts of sizes- look for swedged tube from jegs or summit.
Yes, I have many items from T3 but I think I can make my own four links and even front AE86 to KP61--the kit that includes a mounting bracket, control arms, and tension rods, cheaper. I actually have a complete AE86 front suspension I picked up today to begin mocking things up.
rslifkin wrote:
redvalkyrie wrote:
Secondly, is it advisable to make certain suspension pieces from a good solid aluminum? I was thinking of getting solid round AL bar, cut length, drill and tap the ends, and thread in heim joints. This would be for the rear four link bars.
Other than being hex bar rather than round (and including jam nuts where the joints thread in), that pretty much describes the aftermarket aluminum control arms I've got for my Jeep. They seem to be holding up fine and they're generally well liked by others, so I see no reason it wouldn't work. Just make sure the aluminum is thick enough around the threads.
What would be considered thick enough around the threads?
So, these are the items I would need along with the appropriate rods ends?
http://www.behrents.com/parts/rad.asp
Doubt you will find a bolt on caliper, unless what you have equates to something common on a GM or Ford Mustang. They make and sell bolt on aftermarket calipers for those vehicles. You don't have to use him joints or rod ends. You can buy bushed rod ends which look like a regular bushed control arm end, but they are threaded. Trust me, just buy the control arms. You can get them in various lengths or you can buy one long tube threaded inside and cut to length. You will need jam nuts. Strongly consider getting the rods that are hexagonal in shape, and have a left hand thread on one side and a right hand thread on the other. You don't have to remove those to adjust the lengths. All you do is slacken the jam nuts, put a wrench on the rod, and turn one way to make it shorter and the other way to make it longer. Tighten nuts back up. Those bushed rod ends are hard to find, so you will need your google fu working, but they are getting more common.
tr8todd wrote:
Strongly consider getting the rods that are hexagonal in shape, and have a left hand thread on one side and a right hand thread on the other. You don't have to remove those to adjust the lengths. All you do is slacken the jam nuts, put a wrench on the rod, and turn one way to make it shorter and the other way to make it longer. Tighten nuts back up.
Definitely do this! Having switched to these, they're so much easier to adjust that there's no going back (and you can adjust in smaller than 1/2 turn increments).
Concerning making your own suspension bits, I'd suggest Dom tubing instead of solid aluminum. Instead of getting threaded rod just buy "rod ends" basically just threaded bits that are pre machined to fit inside whatever wall thickness tube you have, cut tube to length, weld in rod ends, add on end joint of your choice and go.
As for the brakes, your going to have to either make a simple bracket or have someone else make you one. Best bet is you start mocking them up with "cad" (cardboard aided design) transfer the pattern to steel and cut and drill, whala you saved yourself time, money, and Internet searching for a part that probably doesn't exist yet.
Edit: these rod ends: http://rodendsupply.com/parts/weld-in-threaded-bungs/ doesn't have to be from this company they are just the first that popped up to give you an idea what I'm talking about.
Edit 2: the reason I suggest against alu round stock is a) cut treads are weaker than formed threads and b) tensil strengths vs weight, I don't know if the maybe couple gram (possibly) is worth it
I humbly request a build thread on said Starlet if you would, sir.
Look under Chuppy for a build thread. I'll post some current pics soon.
You all have succeeded in confusing me. These bars are what circle track drivers use:
http://www.behrents.com/parts/rad.asp
They are precut and have flats for using a wrench to adjust them. They are also equipped with left hand threads on one side and right on the other. They're also cheaper than steel.
Are the four links in a 1600lbs car really going to needed DOM steel? Granted, if I whacked a curb, the AL would break rather than bend. I understand that far...
Thanks fellas. I do appreciate the help.
redvalkyrie wrote:
Look under Chuppy for a build thread.
Darn it, John, I knew red Valkyrie was familiar from somewhere. Carry on.
Coleman racing also offers premade links, variety of materials, sizes, LH/RH threaded for 5/8 & 3/4 rode ends (NFI):
http://www.colemanracing.com/Trailing-Arm-Ez-Just-34-P3753.aspx
http://www.colemanracing.com/Tie-Rod-Hex-P3757.aspx
http://www.colemanracing.com/Trailing-Arm-Steel-P4052.aspx
http://www.colemanracing.com/Trailing-Arm-Swedged-Steel-P4054.aspx
http://www.colemanracing.com/Tie-Rod-Swedged-Steel-P4057.aspx
