gunner (Forum Supporter)
gunner (Forum Supporter) GRM+ Memberand Dork
1/18/23 8:35 a.m.

Edit: added photo before I buttoned it all back up

I did the 12,000 mile big service on the Street Triple last weekend and after checking valve clearances I started putting it back together I thought to look at the back of the intake valves since the intake runner was removed from the head. There was a decent amount but not a heavy amount of grit and gunk on the back of the intake valves. I would like to remove this. I ordered the wrong air filter so the airbox and tank are still removed while I wait for the new one. I figure I have two options, one is open the butterflies and spray or pour a chemical down to sit on the valves, knowing that only one set of valves will hold it since the other two are open to some degree or 2. After I get it all back together pour a chemical in the tank to blow through the injectors onto the valves and clean them while riding or well 3. Both. Any insight into what to avoid using in a motorcycle and/or which specific chemicals will work work without harming the engine? Opinions welcomed!

Flynlow (FS)
Flynlow (FS) Dork
1/20/23 11:37 a.m.

What brand of gasoline do you typically run in the bike?

 

I would avoid a mechanical or heavy chemical cleaning, as you may break off big chunks at a time and send them through your engine.  Try running only Exxon, Mobil, or Shell fuel for a while, and run a treated tank or two (using Chevron Techron II cleaner, they sell it at Advance, Autozone, Walmart, etc.), using the treat % on the bottle.  The detergents in the gasoline itself, and the boost from the fuel system cleaner should take care of it.  IVD (intake valve deposits) on port-fuel injected engines are much easier to treat than DI engines.

gunner (Forum Supporter)
gunner (Forum Supporter) GRM+ Memberand Dork
1/21/23 9:26 a.m.

That's a good question and I meant to include that in my original post. I fill up with VP fuel 90% of the time which touts itself as the best fuel out there which it should be because even for non ethanol fuel its the most expensive by far. I also use only 91 octane non ethanol fuel unless I'm out somewhere that has no non ethanol fuel then I run that out as fast as I can and always use only top tier fuel so VP, Phillips, Conoco, etc. we dont have exxon or mobil and the shell only has 10% ethanol 91 octane. So it's kind of frustrating me that this is happening. I'll get some Techron today and pour it in when I fill up. I appreciate the advice.

Rusnak_322
Rusnak_322 Dork
1/27/23 3:02 p.m.

This video shows 2 methods. we had our Audi heads walnut blasted, it looks like you could make something similar to what this guy is using if you have a compressor and a cheap HF sandblaster. the liquid moly valve clean and zip tie method looks promising as well.

 

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/ventil-sauber-reduces-emissions-liqui-moly-lm2001

 

https://youtu.be/OM0M2bQM-ag

 

 

MiniDave
MiniDave Reader
1/27/23 6:10 p.m.

I cleaned the valves on my 2009 Direct Injected MINI at 50K miles using the BMW wand (You connect a shopvac to this to suck out the debris while blasting) and walnut shells - it cleaned them to like new. I didn't find any difference in performance, fuel mileage or idle quality when I was done tho......I'm debating on whether to do it again now at 100+K miles.

I don't know about using the liquid cleaners or scraping - seems like if you've gone to the trouble of removing the intake manifold the walnut shells give a quicker, easier and better job. 

gunner (Forum Supporter)
gunner (Forum Supporter) GRM+ Memberand Dork
1/28/23 4:06 p.m.

In the intervening time I recieved the correct filter and reassembled the bike. I ended up buying techron cleaner and pouring it in. With just a 4.5 gallon tank that gives me enough to do 2 sessions with one bottle of techron then ill check them again in 6000 miles at the next oil change

Flynlow (FS)
Flynlow (FS) Dork
1/30/23 12:44 a.m.

In reply to gunner (Forum Supporter) :

Awesome, please let us all know how it works out!

Peabody
Peabody MegaDork
1/30/23 8:43 a.m.

I would start running top tier fuel right away.

Flynlow (FS)
Flynlow (FS) Dork
1/30/23 1:24 p.m.

In reply to Peabody :

I was holding off on the longer post until we saw if the techron worked.  But I agree, "best" fuel can be a misnomer.  Best at what?  Octane?  Least ethanol?  Detergency?  Long term fuel stability/storage?  That's why I defaulted to the big three.  They may not be the best at each area, but they're top 2 or 3 in all of them.  This is completely separate from the top tier criteria.  A company can meet the top tier requirement and still not be great (just good).  And with most fuel priced similarly at retail, why not use the best?

Peabody
Peabody MegaDork
1/30/23 1:51 p.m.

In reply to Flynlow (FS) :

I somehow missed your post, but I agree, and they should likely meet the TT criteria, which I think would help. Not really sure whats going on in there, but an EFI engine probably shouldn't look like that after only 12k.

Flynlow (FS)
Flynlow (FS) Dork
1/30/23 4:57 p.m.

Also, a 2019 vehicle is totally ethanol compliant, so i wouldnt stress over that at all.  Fill with good quality pump gas and ride on.  

gunner (Forum Supporter)
gunner (Forum Supporter) GRM+ Memberand Dork
1/30/23 5:55 p.m.

As life goes I have a family emergency and also the weather got bad so I haven't ran it except to start it up after putting it back together to make sure there's no leaks or codes thrown. Good news is it runs great, bad news is I wont be able to ride it for a bit.

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