Finally getting around to getting the valves in the FJ-09 back into spec. I actually recorded the numbers this time so I don't have to try to remember them.
Spec is .11 - .20mm intake and .26 - .30 exhaust.
Cyl #1
Intake .15mm, .14mm
Exhaust .21mm, .26mm
Cyl #2
Intake .16mm, .17mm
Exhaust .21mm, .24mm
Cyl #3
Intake .14mm, .14mm
Exhaust .22mm, .24mm
My question is with the exhaust being tight like that would that make the bike run pig rich?
Also should I try to aim for the top end of the spec range as they get tighter with wear?
In reply to Nick Comstock :
I don't have an answer for the pig rich vs tight exhaust valves question.
On the top end of spec question: Can't hurt.
It is disappointing to hear of your woes. Yamaha used to very seldom need much in its shim under buckets setups.
With tighter exhaust clearances I would expect more combustion gases to remain in the cylinder, so you essentially have a little less exhaust flow. I don't see how less exhaust flow and more combustion gases would lead to pig rich if the bike has an O2 sensor.
It's definitely running stupid rich. But I have no codes to go off of and the only thing I've found out of spec is the valve lash. Once I get the valve lash set I will sync the TBs.
The first valve check is supposed to be at 26K and I'm only sitting at 10k. It seems the majority report not even having to make an adjustment at the first check. But some do.
BoxheadTim said:
With tighter exhaust clearances I would expect more combustion gases to remain in the cylinder, so you essentially have a little less exhaust flow. I don't see how less exhaust flow and more combustion gases would lead to pig rich if the bike has an O2 sensor.
Not doubting you, just wondering why you would say that? My thought is that if the clearance is tighter, the valve opens more ... —> flowing more.
Of course, if too tight, then the valve remains open and doesn't have a chance to shed heat through the seat and burns.
In reply to Slippery :
Only excuse I have was that I was clearly undercaffeinated. You are of course correct that the valve is open longer, not shorter. Which of course should evacuate the combustion gasses better, not worse. So in that case an O2 sensor would potentially see a little more O2, but still nothing that should lead to a "pig rich" situation. Which is assuming that the bike has an O2 - my understanding is that not all of them do, althought cat equipped ones should.
In reply to BoxheadTim :
It does have an O2 and a cat.
I filled the tank the night before it broke. I rode it to work once a couple weeks ago plus the couple little rest rides I've done equals about fifty miles I've put on it since it broke. It's used over half a tank in those fifty miles. Normally it has a 200 mile range. Plus the exhaust smell leaves little doubt that it's very rich. I wish I had a wide band to hook up.
In reply to Nick Comstock :
Exhaust valves tend to cup when overheated. That tightens up clearance.
So is it possible that at some point the engine is either going lean, the timing is too far advanced, or the engine is overheating due to too low octane fuel?
Very interesting findings today. It appears the intake cam slipped a tooth during the install of the cam chain tensioner.
When I originally checked the cam timing after getting it back from the shop it was spot on. However I did not double check it after I installed the tensioner.
I lined everything back up spun the engine by hand a couple times and rechecked it. I then double checked the valves to make sure my numbers were still good for ordering new shims.
Now I'm extremely hopeful that when it goes back together this time it's going to be right.
In reply to Nick Comstock :
Fingers crossed that it will!
This shows the exhaust cam lined up and the intake cam slightly retarded.
Just have to order a shim kit and a tool for syncing the TBs then hopefully I'll be back on the road.
Hope so. You're been through too much E36 M3 with this bike.
I have to say that shim under bucket valve adjustments are the stupidest thing ever. Mainly because I suck at math. I overshot several valves and have to tear it apart again. It wouldn't be that big of a deal if the CCT want such a pain to get in and out. It'll have to wait until tomorrow. I'm too exhausted to mess with it anymore tonight.
Cyl 1.
Intake .20mm, .22mm. Exhaust .30mm, .34mm.
Cyl 2.
Intake .17mm, .20mm. Exhaust .33mm, .33mm.
Cyl 3.
Intake .22mm, .22mm. Exhaust .30mm, .30mm.
I came down with strep and stayed home today. I really feel bad but I can't stand having the bike just out in the garage and not being able to work on it. So I did.
Made the valve adjustment, again. Wrestled with getting the cams in time, again. Double and Triple checked everything before I buttoned it up enough to run it.
The second it fired I could tell it was right. Let it build some temp and gave it some revs and can absolutely tell it's fixed. It idles nice and smooth with no rev hanging and no stink. I need to test ride to be 100% sure but I'm feeling feverish so that'll have to wait.
I then set about syncing the TBs. And after calibrating all my gauges I only had to make the slightest adjustment to the #1 cyl. And I really could have probably left it alone.
So I'm super stoked.
My theory is the original noise was the CCT starting to let go. The dealership was trying to screw me, it's started for me every single time I've hit the button before and after this issue and I never heard anything that would lead me to believe there was serious internal engine damage occurring. When I replaced the CCT the intake cam jumped at least one but possibly two teeth. I'm not sure why the valves were tight.
I still need to put the bodywork back on and I might try to sneak out in it later on tonight for a test ride.
In reply to Slippery :
I couldn't stand it any longer and went on a quick ten mile test ride. It runs absolutely perfect. I'd forgotten about how this bike absolutely rips 
been a long seven months without it.
You need to go back to the dealer and rip a big, black number one in the parking lot while flipping them the bird.
That's awesome it's fixed. Pretty disappointing that a dealer would try to put the screws to somebody like that. What year is the bike, and what did the dealer claim was the problem?
In reply to bigeyedfish :
It's a 2015 I bought new from them in 2016.
The engine started making a rattly noise at idle one morning while I was getting geared up for work. I pushed it back into the garage. The next day I loaded it on a trailer and started it about twenty minutes before dropping it off. Started perfectly fine but still was making that noise.
Claimed the engine wouldn't start and that the engine was making serious self destructing engine noises.
The original cam chain tensioner is a bad design that fails. Mother Yamaha will replace it with an updated design free of charge but the dealer has to hear it run.
I don't believe for a second that it wouldn't start for them. After I got it home and verified it wasn't self destructing I put a manual adjustable cam chain tensioner in (which allowed the intake cam to get out of time and because I didn't double check cam timing afterwards caused much confusion and head scratching) and it started right up. It has never one time not started for me even with a cam being out of time. It never once made any death sounds.
So from my prospective instead of replacing a known bad CCT which the technician said was bad. They tried to sucker me into paying a bunch of money for an unneeded engine teardown.
Glad you got it fixed. Too bad you had to do it yourself, and it really stinks that the guys you have a bunch of money to when you bought the bike tried to bend you over and hump you dry.
I feel like I would try to escalate this issue with the dealer, but I'm not sure how or even why...just seems like the right thing to do.
In reply to doc_speeder :
Meh, I think I'm content with just never letting them see another dimr from me. I've done all maintenance by the book myself but purchased everything I needed through them. Up until this experience they had been wonderful and the purchasing experience was the best if any vehicle I've ever purchased.
Congrats on getting it going again!
In reply to 2002maniac :
Thanks!
It was such a great feeling after a long days work to come around the corner and see this waiting to carry me home instead of waiting out by the road for my wife!
One thing to keep in mind when dealing with Shim under buckets is the shims can "wear / dish" in the center at the valve contact point so if you pull out a shim and reuse it in another location be sure to put the valve side to the valve in the new spot or it might look thicker then you thought and will change lash quickly.
I too have a dislike for shim under buckets.
In reply to 44Dwarf :
Now you tell me 
I plan to check them again in about 5K miles just to make sure everything is still where it needs to be.
